Honda Accord

It depends on your vin number the Honda place should be able to tell you for like 20 bucks or so

It will be reset by the professional that repairs it.

If the light is coming on without you pushing the Sport Mode button on the gearshift lever, then you have a transmission problem. On the bright side, the fact the "S" indicator light came on indicates it is an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one. Time to visit a trusted transmission shop. Stay away from chain transmission shops. A Honda dealer or trusted independent is you best choice.

* Detach the negative battery cable * Clearly label then disconect the wires from the terminals on the starter motor and solenoid * Remove the mounting bolts and detach the starter

Should be listed under the hood on a placard and in your owner's manual. More than likely it is .044.

Open the hood. Look for a yellow handle dip stick.

Locate the 2 pin diagnostic connector behind the glovebox door. (Not the 16 pin OBD connector which is on the driver side). Hook a jumper wire from one terminal to the other. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine. Count the number of flashes the D4 light makes, looking for both long and short flashes. Respond with the number, and I'll post the diagnosis. (there are more than 40 possible codes, too many to list here)

The 1988 Honda Accord coolant temperature sensor can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.

Plain green.

The 2014 Honda Accord-Hybrid has 42.5 in. of front leg room.

This is listed in your owners manual. If you do not have one park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4 quarts of the correct weight oil and start the engine. Let it run for 30 seconds and shut down. Wait 30 minutes and then check the oil level. Add as necessary to reach the full mark. You now know the capacity.

p1337 crankshaft position sensor 2 no signal

It can cost upwards of 200.00 dollars to replace the transmission seals in a 96 Honda Accord as of 2014. The exact price depends on the seals you purchase.

If you mean front brakes as in just PADS, the cost of material should be no more than $30. And 2 struts around $70-$90 for the materials. If you were to do it your self you would save a lot.

With labor, you would be looking at perhaps $80 to $125 per hour. So figure at leastbe $250 for labor added on to that $240 for parts. Figure perhaps 25% markup on parts. For this example, assume struts are perhaps $85 each, and you need two. So some where around $500 minimum, and perhaps a few hundred more.

This is dependent on where you live and on the going rate for mechanics. Quotes of up to $250 per wheel (you should do them in pairs, if not all together) are typical for strut replacement.

UNRELATED: If your car is able for a 4 wheel alignment you might want to take that as well so you don t have to buy tires down the road. So alignment lets say is $75 plus another $80 or more for labor.

any manual, non awd, vehicle

There were no infant car seats in 1956 to speak of. There were attempts to make an infant seat but there were never sold in any quantities. In fact there were no seat belts in 1956 except on the Ford which installed seat belts that year for the first time. No other American manufacture installed them that year. Safety was not a concern at that time.

Honda programs the light to come on at certain mileage intervals. After 5,000 miles, it will blink for 5 seconds upon starting. After 7,500, it stays on until reset. The purpose of the light is to remind you to change your oil. You should perform the reset sequence each time you change your oil. Once reset, it will come on again at the aformentioned intervals.

Change the fuel filter then, have the catalatic convertor checked out.

It Looks to me that you would have to remove the bumper first in order to get to the headlight........but I am not certain that would be the correct way

For a 1993 Accord. You need to remove the front bumper not as hard as it sounds. First remove the grill. Five screws and it pops out. If you're doing both sides, remove the battery and windshield washer tank. Remove the side marker lamps by unscrewing one screw for each lamp. Remove the turn directional lamps on the bottom of the bumper. Behind each lamp opening you will see two bolts that need to be removed. Directly above the directionals inside the engine compartment there is a threaded stud with a nut on each side, remove both nuts. After removing the four bolts and two nuts the bumper pull right off. Each headlight assembly has five screws holding it in, remove those and pull out the headlights. To install just reverse the process.

That is a personal choice as to Synthetic vs Conventional, if I'm not mistaken it calls for an SAE 5W30. If the engine has NO Major Oil leaks then I would use a Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30 or even a 0W30. Hope this Helps.

The lightbulb for the clock is blown.

Really Easy,

First off Jack up the rear end, put Blocks Behind the front wheels for safety.

next up remove rear wheel, then using a flat screwdriver pry off the centre cap on the hub.

now using a 32mm socket and a decent breaker bar, (i used a standard power arm) break that centre nut free.

remove the 2 Philips head screws that hold the brake disk in place

then using a 13mm socket remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper on, theyre located behind the splashshield. while youre at it take a 11mm socket and remove the handbrake cableholder and the brake hose holder bolts.

now just swing that caliper out of the way, slide off the brake disk, and same for the hub. that's it, now just slide on the new hub and reassemble in order of removal.

on thing, the bearing kit comes as a complete hub unit with a new nut to go, the nut should already have a bit of a knock in its shoulder, that's where you want the nut to be tightened up to, no further or you just wasted your money on the kit.

hope this helps.

Michael.jackson47@ntlworld.com

More than likely, your brake switch is fused, or stuck down.... here. when you push on the brake, the pedal taps a button to indicate that the brakes have been pressed. this button is a gate to the power provided to the tail lights, therefore, when it is pressed, they light up. this button could be stuck. disconnect the harness and see if the lights go off. if they do, replace the switch.

Follow this link: http://www.digmyhonda.com/h/story.php?title=DIY_distributor_CAP__ROTOR_replacement

With the cap removed for observation, put the vehicle in second gear, take the hand-break off, and bump/jerk the vehicle forward until rotor arm rotates and screw is exposed. It will be exposed pointing inward/backward toward the cabin and should be a Posi-drive™/Phillips™ screw/bolt. Have the ignition off while bumping the vehicle. -=bc=-