Honda Del Sol

inside the ecu

No, you can disconnect the air bag connection by removing the clamps that hold the glove box from dropping to the floor, but dont touch anything airbag related as long as the battery is connected. Disconnect battery first and let it sit 30mins before you start working on it.

take tire off then the break caliper then undo the upper ball joint then unhook the strut fron the a arm. undo the axle nut and pop it out of the trans. then your done not to hard.

La Puerta del Sol is the name of the central plaza in the Spanish city of Madrid. It was originally the place of one the cities main gates.

Its on the exhaust. i have a 94 Del sol s and its on the exhaust pipe about even with the bottom of the block

The 1993 Del Sol has two models, the S and SI. I own the SI and the manual states to put nothing lower than mid grade unless you want your motor to begin to have a metallic cling to it and then soon after stop working. I would recommend either Shell Gas or Chevron as they both have chemicals added to the fuel to help your car last longer.

You can pull the tray out. remove the bulb it should have a code stamped into it near its base. Go to a local auto zone or similar store and match it up. clean and simple.

Look under the car and you will see what appears to be a frame built into the floor pan. Place the jack stands under those frame rails.

Only the 1996 and newer Honda's have a i.a.t sensor. It is located in the air intake tube that runs to the throttle body/intake manifold.

Unfortunately because of a lack of sales in the western markets for the first two games, and poor critical and commercial reception in the east for that particular title it was never imported. Perhaps one day it might be re-released and then have an import, but as it stands you would have to learn Japanese to play this game.

In 1993 two engine options where available for the Del Sol. The 1.5L SOHC and the 1.6L SOHC VTEC. The 1.5L Engine has the spark plug wires the back of the valve cover, and the valve cover is black. On the 1.6L the spark plugs are located the front of the valve cover, and the valve cover is also black. On the 1994 Del Sol the VTEC emblem is on the valve cover. On the 1993 models if you have rear drum brakes it's a 1.5L and if you have discs all around it's a 1.6L SOHC VTEC. thats not completely true: D15B7 1.5L 102 hp I4

D16Z6 1.6L 125 hp (93 kW) I4

B16A3 1.6L 160 hp (120 kW) I

D16Y7 1.6L 106 hp (79 kW) I4

D16Y8 1.6L 127 hp (95 kW) I4

B16A3 1.6L 160 hp (120 kW) I4 1994-1996 OBD1

B16A2 1.6L 160 hp (120 kW) I4 1996-1997 OBD2

D15B7 1.5L 102 hp I4

D16Z6 1.6L 125 hp (93 kW) I4

B16A3 1.6L 160 hp (120 kW) I

D16Y7 1.6L 106 hp (79 kW) I4

D16Y8 1.6L 127 hp (95 kW) I4

B16A3 1.6L 160 hp (120 kW) I4 1994-1996 OBD1

B16A2 1.6L 160 hp (120 kW) I4 1996-1997 OBD2

The roof on the Honda del sol is a targa top, manual, you take it off with your hands, then open the trunk then slide it onto the roof rack, (in the trunk) then latch it, then close trunk.

A clutch can run you anywhere from $120-$600 depending on if its oem or performance. The flywheel is either resurfaced like brake rotors or buy a new one. New Flywheels can run anywhere from $60-$400 depending on if its oem or performance. To have a mechanic install it and how good you are at wheeling and dealing, you can have one installed for $300 cheapest, most shops will say anyway between $400 and $800 to ensure they make a profit. I'm putting mine in myself, so all i paid for was parts!

it is located above the transmission. there is one wire that goes into it.

you only need to remove one screw, which is behind a small screw cover located in the inside door handle. pop open the cover with a small screwdriver, then remove the screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Then pull the panel out from underneath. There are about 5 plastic clips holding the panel in place at the bottom. look for the spot with the most gap and pull straight out and move along the bottom until all the clips are popped out. Then carefully raise the door panel, which hooks down on the door frame at the top where the panel meets the glass. At the same time you raise the door panel, slide the inside door handle unit to the left (if working on the driver side door) which is toward the pointy end of the door handle unit. This releases the unit from the door panel. Once you slide the this unit all the way you'll see that it's held in place by two clips. Then carefully push this unit through the hole on the door panel to separate the panel from the door handle unit. Once the panel is separated from the door framd, remove the two electrical clips that power the power windows and mirrors. It takes some coordination, but that's how the panel is removed.

This allows you to work on replacing the door window glass, repair broken exerior door handles, and tighten the side mirrors.

wires, a ground wire, or fuse

turn on engine.Have handbrake on.Undo catches above doors.Press roof button.Windows should go down and boot comes up.when beeping changes remove finger from button and undo roof lever.then press button again and roof should go into boot cavityy.when boot goes down each time remove finger off button and replace until boot closes.

you first have to pop out the switches on the top of the dash (use a tiny screwdriver and gently pry). from there, you will see screws holding in the top piece for the dash. unscrew those screws and the cluster will be at your fingertips.

Open the trunk pull the carpet pannel back and locate the bulb holder turn the holder to the left a bit and pull out //// it is notched OK kjudish@netzero.com

Removing the wheel stud can be a pain, depending on it's length. It may be required to cut the wheel stud down with a hack saw or cutting wheel to a small length then driving it out with a punch. it will be easier if you move the spindal around so that the wheel stud that is broken/being replaced is in the middle position frontmost of the vehicle. or, on a clock, at 9 o'clock on the left side and 3 o'clock on the right side. it may also be necessary to knock back the dust shield some to make clearance for the wheel stud. then just use the punch and drive out the old wheel stud. it's often easier to put the new wheel stud in the freezer overnight or at least 10 minutes for easier installation. due to the way the hub is designed, and I'm assuming we all want to do this without specialty tools and without pulling apart the whole spindal, these are the tools we need. either a vice or vice grips and a file. take the new wheel stud and grip it on the splines above the threads. now file the head down about 1/16 or 1/8 an inch and that should give you the clearance to tap the new wheel stud into place. do not tap the wheel stud all the way into place, just so that it is in the hole, straight and with threads showing through the spindal. now, and this may be necessary with skunk2 extended wheel studs or if you have lug nuts that do not thread straight through. you may need a spacer or if worst comes to worst, a wholeeeee lot of washers. thread the lug nut on to the wheel stud and tighten as far as it will go using the nut to bring through the back of the wheel stud. once that is in all the way, you are done. just back out the lug nut and boom, there is your new wheel stud. if you need any more specific details, just drop me an email at skaterguymoose@yahoo.com

The rear window on the del Sol is in a waterproof compartment between the trunk and the interior compartment. You need to disassemble the wall between the interior compartment (remove the center console, rear personal trunks, interior panels behind the seats ... everything ... and as much of the carpet as possible. Remove the front wall of the rear window compartment. All of the foul water inside will flow into the interior compartment when the seal is broken so be ready with towels and such to absorb as much of it as possible. The rear windows compartment can hold a surprisingly large volume of water - perhaps as much as 20 gallons! It helps to remove the seats and carpet to keep them from being ruined. The water is usually nasty and smelly too. There is really no way to prevent it from gushing into the bottom of the interior of the car. At the bottom of the rear window compartment there are two drains that undoubtedly are plugged up -- usually with dead leaves or other debris that has fallen into the rear window slot when the windows was rolled down and then decomposed. Clear out the drains. I suggest replacing the two hoses that go to the underside of the car. Clean up the inside of the rear window compartment and check for excessive corrosion or rust and make repairs as necessary. Reassemble Overall this is a very time consuming and nasty job. Failure to solve this problem will result in the corrosion and failure of the interior to rear window wall/seal and/or the failure of the rear window mountings and electrical components.

replace the thing its faulty dont try do fix something you dont understand

Its on the back side of your motor. Somewhere right below the second and third intake tube on the manifold, and right above the oil filter. Mine has a green plastic cover on it. You should be able to twist it out like a screw.

I've had my 93 del sol for three years now and i still dont know so I dont think there is one.

my name is Wayne and I have the same problem with my car but it got to the point where it just killed but I got a mechanic to put a new distributer coil but he put a old used one and now its doing the same thing so when I get the new ill let you know

Often, this problem is caused by bad solder joints within the main relay. The main relay is located under the dash against the driver's side of the car. In a non-cruise car, it will be attached directly to the driver's side of the car. If the car has cruise, it will be attached to the cruise computer.