Honda Odyssey

1. Rotate the tires, check the tire pressure, and check the condition of the tires.

2. Replace the air filter and the cabin filter. Check the condition of all belts.

3. Change the transmission fluid.

i tried all procedures, and mine still won't go off!

The codes of up to three transmitters can be stored into the keyless receiver unit memory. (If a fourth code is stored, the code that was input first will be erased.)

NOTE: It is important to maintain the time limits between the steps. Make sure the doors, the hood and the tailgate are closed.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

2. Within 1 to 4 sec., press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit built into the power window master switch.

3. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF.

4. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II).

5. Within 1 to 4 sec., press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit built into the power window master switch.

6. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF.

7. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II).

8. Within 1 to 4 sec., press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit built into the power window master switch.

9. Within 1 to 4 sec., turn the ignition switch OFF.

10. Within 4 sec., turn the ignition switch ON (II).

11. Within 1 to 4 sec., press the transmitter lock or unlock button with the transmitter aimed at the keyless receiver unit built into the power window master switch.

12. Confirm you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators within 1 to 4 sec., then push the transmitter lock or unlock button again, or the code will not be stored.

13. Within 10 sec., aim the transmitters (up to two additional ones) whose codes you want to store in the keyless receiver, and press the transmitter lock or unlock buttons.

14. Confirm that you can hear the sound of the door lock actuators after each transmitter code is stored.

15. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the key.

Confirm proper operation with the transmitters.

NOTE: Once the programming mode is entered, the remote button must be pressed a second time. If the button is not pressed, or if the ignition switch is turned OFF, the programming for all remotes will be cancelled.

I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and have taken the van to the dealer to get the power door reset.... $50. There is apparently a breaker of some sort (not the electrical fuse) that causes the door to stop functioning if it has a problem opening or something causes it to stick when you try to open it. AVOID THE $50 CHARGE and the wasted time of having this "repaired". To reset, I tried both of these suggestions below at the same time. I found these elsewhere online... not sure which worked, but the door is working again without a trip to the mechanic. Posts elsewhere indicated that this worked on both 2000 and 2001 Honda Odyssey vans.

Suggestion #1

1.) Disable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

2.) Remove the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

3.) Manually open and close both sliding doors.

4.) Restore the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

5.) Enable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

6.) Try opening the sliding doors.

Suggestion #2

Remove fuse #13 (clock) for 30 seconds or more from the passenger side fusebox. This will reset the door and the clock.

to give jobv@

Page 352 of the Owner's Manual, in the section called "Maintenance Minder" it says: 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. 2. Press the Select/Reset knob until the engine oil life indicator is displayed. 3. Press the Select/Reset knob for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life indicator and the maintenance item code(s) will blink. 4. Press the Select/Reset knob for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance items code(s) will disappear, and the engine oil life indicator will reset to "100."

The 2003 Honda Odyssey takes a 24" drivers side, 21" passenger side and a 17" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only. Be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

The bulb replacement is quite simple. You need a standard screwdriver and a phillips. Take the standard screwdriver and pry the two panels off of the side of the light. You don't need to use much force as these are only clipped in. Next unscrew both screws from the light on either side. Once the screws are loose, the light will tilt forward. Lift the light up as you remove it. The light bulb is on the right side and requires about a 1/2 turn towards you before it slips out. The factory bulb is a Stanley 921 - 12volt 18watt bulb. You should be able to find this at your local auto parts store. The bulb simply pulls out, no need to twist. Replacement is the reverse. I suggest using a kleenex or a cotton cloth on the bulb to avoid any fingerprint marks which may shorten the life of the bulb. Twist the socket away from you to tighten. Angle the light down to insert back into the space. Tighten the screws and gently push the two screw covers back into place. You may need to apply a little bit of pressure to side to squeeze them back into place. You're done!

You would need to look it up in the owner manual.

METHOD #1 - As described in the Owner's Manual

Go in from the front wheel wells. If changing the DRIVER SIDE bulbs, cut the wheel to the RIGHT. PASSENGER SIDE, cut the wheel to the LEFT. From there pop off the the plastic anchors holding on the plastic liner with a flat head screw driver. Be careful though. They break pretty easily. After that pull the plastic liner away. The liner is fairly flexible, so feel free to pull it back a bit. And that's it. Make sure you got the right bulbs and change away.

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METHOD #2 - Lots Easier

This method avoids having to go through wheel wells (just performed on my 2004 Accord passenger side. Should be same to 2003, and if on driver side remove battery to get access)

- Get a right-angle ratcheting (or angle) screwdriver so you can loosen the three screws securing the bulb in place. Search Amazon for "Lisle 64250" and you'll see what I bought, it's around $15. The angle screw driver is real cheap and works just about as well as the ratchet because all you have to do is loosen the screw about 1/8 turn of so. Then you can do the rest of the removal by hand.

- With the help of the ratcheting (or angle) screwdriver to just do an initial loosening of the screw, carefully unscrew (by hand) and remove the screw closest to you, and the screw at the top of the "screw pyramid"... the screw closest to the hood. For the third (the one on the other side of the bulb from you) just loosen it a couple of turns. No need to remove it as that would be the hardest to put back in place later. Just loosen enough so the bulb can be turned and removed from the housing. Be careful not to drop screws into the well as they will be hard to find.

- You'll need two hands in there because of short power wire length, but unplug the old bulb from the power harness. Do this by squeezing the harness near the wire end... this will lift the plastic tab that holds the bulb in the harness and allow you to unplug it. You can also lift the plastic lock tab with a small screwdriver instead of squeezing the harness.

- Put new bulb in the housing. Once it is in, with the same hand you should be able to hold the bulb in place while you tighten the screw you left in there. That should hold the bulb in place fairly well to get the other two screws in place. As others suggested I didn't touch the bulb but also didn't run into a point where I felt I had to. I handled it from the plastic end, open end for the harness plug should be pointed toward the ground.

- Once the holding screws are in, plug in the power harness to the new bulb. It should click right into place. You're done.

The whole process took just a few minutes... you'll want to do it with plenty of light available. When I first looked this over it was at night in my garage and it looked harder than it was. In the daylight with no weird shadows it was a no-brainer, and going in through the wheel well wasn't necessary at all (unless maybe if you fumble-finger one of the screws and have to find it. Telescoping magnet would hopefully help in recovering).

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METHOD #2A - Even easier than METHOD #2

This method above (from the top side in the engine compartment) is much easier because the so-called "fairly flexible" wheel well liner is not really that flexible and it poses a constant nuisance springing back into place while you are trying to perform the replacement through the wheel well. I gave up on that method even though it is recommended in the Owner's Manual.

If you are doing this on the driver's side low beam bulb, disconnect and remove the battery and its hold down clamp and shield completely so you can see where the bulb holder is. Replace these when done with the bulb assembly replacement.

I have found after two low beam bulb replacements, one on each side of my 2003 Honda Accord, that you only have to completely remove ONE screw, the one nearest to the center of the engine compartment and easiest to reach. You only have to LOOSEN the SECOND screw at the top a bit -- just enough to allow you to rotate and remove the plastic connector into which the bulb assembly plugs. Don't even mess with the THIRD screw, which is impossible to reach anyway.

Also note that the particular type of screws used here are very easy to remove after you get them loosened just a little bit. They can be unscrewed by hand using your fingers only after the first 1/8 turn or so with an angle or ratcheting screwdriver. I was amazed that they had not rusted or corroded at all in the 7+ years I have owned this car. I think that they are aluminum alloy screws which screw into a plastic holder. DO NOT DROP THE SCREW.

Do this in an environment with plenty of light as mentioned above. Most of this can be done by feel, but you need enough light to see where to feel.

The curb weight of the 2005 Honda Odyssey is 4378 lbs..

Honda's maintenance minder says to, "refer to Civic Sedan's owner's manual."

It usually means your transmission is going bad. Is there a code (Check engine light on) with the flashing light?

Honda odyssey best van ever.

I second that! Drivers typically put 200-300k miles on these vehicles before they 'wear out', and even then they often still run well. At 200K miles usually just need suspension work or over-hall on engine internals. Both issues due to high mileage and worn parts.

Many times referred to as 'lifetime owners'. Often people will hang on to these vehicles forever once they are purchased.

== It is an excellent minivan in every sense. It is extremely reliable. I have owned two so far and will probably replace it with another Honda Odyssey. My one and only one complaint is it is noisy. Much more so than a Toyota Sienna. The Honda Odyssey is a very good car. There's only one van that's better than it is, and that's the Dodge Sprinter--a far pricier, commercial vehicle. For the money, it doesn't get any better than the Odyssey. Here's something I really like about the Odyssey: You've seen these "ready to assemble" playground sets they sell at Home Depot? It's a standard-size pallet with either three or four boxes strapped to it when you get it; open the boxes and you find about a million little pieces of wood in there. Assemble the million pieces of wood and you get a nice big playground set. Those pallets will NOT fit in any compact pickup or into most minivans without cutting the bands and loading each of the boxes into the vehicle by hand. You can load the banded pallet into the back of an Odyssey.

If you have the PAX tires you wouldnt have a spare.

Properly maintained (according to MFG specs or better) any Honda engine should last well over 200,000 miles before it shows any signs of significant wear of internal engine parts. Of course, normal wear/tear issues might arise before then.

The SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) is the airbag system in your car. You do not want to turn off the light - you want to find out WHY the light is on. Once you have determined why the light is on, then you can proceed to have the light turned off. If the SRS light is on, your airbags will not work and if you're in an accident, you're in big trouble. Turning the light off will not necessarily make the airbags work again. That said, there are a few common things that can cause the SRS light to come on that do not indicate SRS failure. One is battery failure or the battery being disconnected for more than 15 or 20 minutes. Another is a computer glitch. In either of those cases, it is safe to have the light simply "turned off" and go on your merry way. However if there is a SRS "system problem" then the light will simply come back on again, and then you will know that there is a more serious problem with your airbag system. The way to turn off your SRS warning light is with a ODBII reader. NOTE: Not all ODBII readers will turn off SRS codes (and that's a good thing.) Generally it is wise to take your Honda to a reputable mechanic (notice I didn't say 'dealer') who should be able to test your SRS system and turn off the light if nothing is wrong. My SRS light came on in my Odyssey about 6 months ago and I own a ODBII reader that will turn off the light, but I still took my van to a mechanic that works on SRS systems. He determined that nothing was wrong and reset the computer for me for $45. It was well worth the money. Dealers will cost a LOT more and often go on "parts changing sprees" with your money. Still, if your dealer has been fair with you in the past, by all means take your Honda there and get it checked. This isn't something you want to mess around with yourself for a number of very good reasons - your life the the lives of your passengers being major ones.

The 2005 and newer Odyssey have a center seat that is 1/2 the size of the other seats. There is nothing available in the early models in the way of a third seat.

Timing Belt

I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and have taken the van to the dealer to get the power door reset.... $50. There is apparently a breaker of some sort (not the electrical fuse) that causes the door to stop functioning if it has a problem opening or something causes it to stick when you try to open it. AVOID THE $50 CHARGE and the wasted time of having this "repaired". To reset, I tried both of these suggestions below at the same time. I found these elsewhere online... not sure which worked, but the door is working again without a trip to the mechanic. Posts elsewhere indicated that this worked on both 2000 and 2001 Honda Odyssey vans.

Suggestion #1

1.) Disable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

2.) Remove the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

3.) Manually open and close both sliding doors.

4.) Restore the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

5.) Enable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

6.) Try opening the sliding doors.

Suggestion #2

Remove fuse #13 (clock) for 30 seconds or more from the passenger side fusebox. This will reset the door and the clock. Great advice! as stupid as it sounds, I opted for suggestion #2 and it worked! Door working again in less than 1 minute! Greatly appreciated advice.

it has to do with some guy on a mission to get home or something so he goes through alot of monsters and gods like cicones, locus eaters, cyclops, aeoius, aestriganians, circe, land of dead, charibdis, and rankiti cattle (and calipso)

I have been thinking of replacing my pax wheels with regular one from the same year. I wonder if the bolt pattern is the same? I also would need to defeat the warning system so as not to have a low tire warning all the time.

Depending on which trim level you choose, the cost would be between $27,990 and $41990, plus tax, tags and any dealer fee.

The 2001 Honda Odyssey has a 9 ft. 10.1 in. (118.1 in.) wheel base.