Honda Prelude SI

87 is a 2nd generation and 88 is third generation prelude....they are completely different cars

A easy way is to either crank the engine over with the starter motor, without the coil being plugged in until oil pressure is obtained.If rebuilding an engine and you want to prime before completion just squirt oil into the oil pickup while the engine is upside down and turn the pump drive to lube the internals. This will help get pressure faster when it comes time to prime with starter motor when engine is in vehicle.

none, you want to get it replaced, this is the most critical gasket because it prevents specs of dust and foreign objects(antifreeze) in the places it needs to be. If you use something like silicon you just increase the chances of silicon getting into you're engine and tearing everything to shreds.

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Depending on your car. On some cars you can do so by adjusting the gas pedal cable connection but I won't advise an ametuer to do that cause you might cause your gas pedal cable to be loose and that will cause big problems.

doubt that a t-stat would cause a car to shut down and restart when cold check for an ignition module proublem

the 89 toys had the 22r 22re and 3.0 v6

Yes they will, I have 17inch advanti rims on mine. I believe they have to be multi stud pattern ones tho so they fit.

HELLO FELLOW 87 PRELUDE OWNER!! YOUR PCV VALVE IS LOCATED UNDER YOUR TWO CARBS.YOU CAN BARELY SEE IT BUT THERE IS A SMALL BLACK BOX,IT HAS A HOSE ON TOP OF IT GOING IN THE BOX;THAT IS WHERE IT IS.ONE END IN THE BLACK BOX, THE OTHER IN THE HOSE.

Ther are three different engine configurations used on the 1990 prizm. Check a repair manual such as Haynes. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time a manual would be a good investment.

the fuel pump on an 87 prelude is in-line. under the drivers side right in front of the rear tire. you must first remove two covers and disconnect the pump to get it out. a lift is highly suggested.

The most likely cause is the choke valve which is situated at the bottom of the throttle body and has 2 water outlets ,if you undo those 3, 10 mil bolts and undo the side cover with a plilips head you will surprised the amount of rust particles accumulated ,clean and check all the hoses and make sure they are not clogged and refit it it should solve the problem.

Remove the rcoker cover (8 nuts and a little fiddling about), turn it over and you'll find 4 thick rubber o-rings. These perish overtime and allow oil from the head to seep down the spark plug holes. They can be purchased separately from Honda or my advice will be buy a rocker cover seal kit which will include main rocker gasket, spark plug seals, 8 x rocker top washers and 8 closed-head nuts. Well worth the extra cash. Peace!

Brakes dragging? Return ports on master cylinder restricted? As brake fluid heats it expands, if fluid return passages are plugged calipers will expand causing brakes to apply

You didn't specify a model year, so it's difficult to answer this question.

Pop the hood. See the intake manifold? Its the big silver thing at the back of the motor. Just to the left of it should be large black ribbed, rubber hose coming out at a 90* angle then shooting down. At the end of that rubber hose is your air filter. It is inside of the canister that is there. Otherwise try www.preludepower.com

first, check your fuse i believe there is a fuse for that ,second, it could be a bad fan try to test the fan by hooking it up directly to a twelve volt source like the battery and if the fan works then your problem is deeper.

RE: Find someone to straight wire it, I have a 92 prelude si, and my wires are going bad, If your wires are going bad, get rid of the car, it will become a money hungry car. I can't get rid of it, because I have way to much cash in it now....

on top of that, all my fuses and wire harness's are good, the wiring through out the car is bad.

find some stupid tuner kid to buy it, honestly.

To set the carburetor on the Hero Honda CD 100 bike, locate the set screw attached to the carburetor. Start the bike and using a screwdriver, turn the screw until the bike runs smoothly. This may take a few tries to make sure the screw is getting turned the right way.

No, the prelude is Front Wheel Drive only. There have been custom projects to convert the Prelude to AWD and RWD.

well I'm not quite sure on a '93 but on my 86 Si there is a hard as hell little bolt in an arced slotted bracket. if its been on a while you might have to loosen it alot or take it off all together. Once you have done that then simply take the belt off. (first you might have to take off the power steering and AC compressor belt. second as i said if its been on a while you'll have to pry it some to get it to swivel.) After the belt is off put the new belt on and then put the adjustment screw in until just slightly snug(you still want to be able to move it at this point CRUCIAL!. now here is where you need either an extra person with strength and someone to tighten the bolt. get a something you can use to pry the alt. (possibly what you used to pry it loose) till the belt is fairly taught. however be very careful on how you pry at it so as not to bust it. Also over tightening it may harm the pulley which is bad. the proper tension would be when you push on the belt with firm but not hard pressure it will give about a quarter of an inch(after you've tightened the adjustment screw. once you get proper tension go ahead and tighten down the screw as hard as you can use a cheater bar for extra leverage would be a good idea. put the rest of the belt you took off back on (p/s and A/C doesn't work on mine so i left them off) and start the car. if it squeaks its to loose(don't use belt dressing) just loosen the screw and pry it more taught and re tighten screw and try starting again. once you get the whole bit done drive the car around for about 20-40 minutes because the belt will get warmed up and also stretch a little bit. (it took mine about 3 hours to get completely worked in) after that recheck the tension the deflection of the belt should be between 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch with firm pressure as mentioned below. now enjoy a better MPG a better charged battery and a squeak free drive.

NOTE!make sure you have the belt seated in the grooves respectively you don't want the thing fly off at 3k RPM's and getting wrapped around other pulleys and totaling your car.

I have an '84 Eldorado, with the same engine. The timing is set after the engine is warmed up, running at 800 RPM or less. You must first disconnect the green connecter behind the distributor near the firewall. The setting is 10 degrees before top dead center (10 DEG BTDC). Although on an older car like this you'll find you get better performance by advancing it a little more. I set mine about 12-13 deg BTDC. Then don't forget to re-connect the green connector.

Raise and support the front of the car. Remove the crossmember and downpipe. There is a cover for the transmission - remove that too.

Remove all the 10mm bolts around the oil pan. Pull the oil pan off. Replace.

Don't forget to drain the oil first!