Infiniti Q45

I have a 1997 Q45 - would guess this is the same for a 1008.
The oil filter is under the air intake tube that runs from the center front of the car to the air filter box. There are two nuts that hold this in place and a sensor connector on the back right side that I disconnect so I can get the intake off the car. When you have this off, you will see the oil filter on the front of the motor on the right(looking in) side. You can(barely) stick your arm in to remove it. It has a built in waste oil spill catcher that drains out a tube under the car. NOTE - be sure you reconnect the sensor connector - it is hard to click completely in - or you will get the "Check Engine" light.

This is not as difficult as it sounds.
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Where is the thermostaton a 1997 infiniti q45

Newer versions of the navigation DVD software are available I believe Navtec is the name of the company that supplies the software

Bad engine seal? Bad oil filter? Leaking valve cover gasket?

Service codes in cars help a mechanic to understand what issue the car is having. For example for the Infiniti Q45 the code u3fff could mean a sensor needs to be replaced.

They are on the side of the engine block there is a plastic shield covering them your going to need a Allen wrench to take the plastic covering off

Could be an air block in line,so just keep on trying to start it and fuel should eventually come through.Failing that,it could be some rubbish from bottom of tank that has blocked the injectors.

I think this approach will work on a 1995 Q45. I have a 1994 Infiniti Q45, and, per the service manual, I tried the "rubber mallet" approach as follows: (1) remove the disc pads, (2) remove the caliper assembly which I did in two steps: first removing the pads then removing the two 14mm bolts which secure the caliper assembly - you will need a good wrench and leverage to initially "break" the two 14mm bolts, (3) back off the parking brake shoes by means of inserting a medium sized screwdriver into the hole in the rotor (the hole should be somewhere around the five o'clock position and slowly ratchet the parking brake adjusting cam to the point where the brake shoes have contracted inwardly and are no longer close enough to the inside of the rotor to inhibit the rotor being removed. I had to experiment on which way to pry the cam to loosen the brake - you will need to know this because when you install new rotors - and possibly new parking brake shoes - you will need to pry the cam in the opposite direction to adjust the parking brake shoes properly after reassembly. (4) after loosening the parking brake shoes, one tap of the mallet caused the passenger side rotor to free up and all I had to do was pull it straight off. (5) the drivers side rotor was a real challenge: I followed all the above procedures but the rotor wouldn't budge. I tried some really hard mallet blows and nothing happened. I tried some penetrant spray to loosen up the center where the rotor appeared to be frozen where it contacts the wheel hub. Wouldn't budge. NOTE: if you try a penetrant oil it is critical that you subsequently spray the area with brake cleaner to completely remove any traces of oil. I then applied some propane torch heat to the rotor (never apply heat to the axle!) But that didn't work either. After a good night's rest I decided I couldn't bear the humiliation of having the job finished by a shop, so I asked myself what I had NOT tried. After staring at the rotor about 20 minutes I started thinking about the two small threaded holes on the rotor exactly 180 degrees apart. BINGO: these are there so you can screw in two metric bolts to, in effect, act as a puller. They don't have to be more than 3/4 of an inch long - sorry I don't know what 3/4 inch is in metric terms - Hand screw the bolts in till they can't be hand tightened anymore, then alternately tighten each bolt one turn at a time. By the time I had completed just two turns of each bolt, the rotor "popped" loose. Eureeka! The bolts press down on the hub assembly, and the pressure ends up "pushing" the rotor away from the hub. I don't know the exact metric specifications on the bolts - I just found a few that fit in my miscellaneouse nuts and bolts bin. Any decent hardware store should carry an assortment - and you can probably "eyeball " the appropraite metric bolts. Oh, by the way, the factory service manual and alldata files make no mention of this removal procedure. That's it. Think I got carried away with details, but maybe this can save someone the maddening frustration I experienced before I figured out what to do.

The oil filter is under the air intake tube that runs from the center front of the car to the air filter box. There are two nuts that hold this in place and a sensor connector on the back right side that I disconnect so I can get the intake off the car. When you have this off, you will see the oil filter on the front of the motor on the right(looking in) side. You can(barely) stick your arm in to remove it. It has a built in waste oil spill catcher that drains out a tube under the car. NOTE - be sure you reconnect the sensor connector - it is hard to click completely in - or you will get the "Check Engine" light.

This is not as difficult as it sounds.

in the fuse box under the hood hood, next to the battery. It is a 40 ampere fuse

You have to like push on the arm rest and slide it toward the rear of the car and then it will be able to come up and off. There are 3 or 4 Philips screws behind there. After that you will have to open the ash tray on the bottom of the door panel and there will be 2 Philips screws in there at the top when opened to remove the ash tray there will be a plug for the cig lighter so be careful. Pull the door panel away from the door in the bottom corner that would be closest to the wheel then work your way around after all the clips are out lift up slightly to get it out from the window. there will be 2 harnesses im pretty sure one at the top for the window and one for the light

in the fuel tank in the trunk of the car you have to pull it out threw the package tray in the back seat there are screws that go all round it those need to come out and the fuel lines disconnected be sure to have a big rag handy to catch the fuel that spills out of the lines...then you have to manuver it out of there carful not to break the fuel gauge level float then there are couple wires to hook up where you take the old one out of then just put it back in the way you pulled it out and becareful not to drop the big o-ring in the tank its around where all those screws came out of and disconnect the battery first, dont want to blow yourself up that would be no bueno

The check engine light can come on for a large variety of reasons. A code reader has to be attached to find out what specific code has been tripped and then go from there. Some auto parts stores will do this for free and tell you what the code means.

No, 20 is max with fenders rolled

stop using 87 and use 91 only that's why ur knock sensors is activiated ok ur car has a high performance engine i blew my q 45 engine out by using 87

look for the low pressure side of the compressor.. 1998 q45 is in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment.. it should have a cap with the letter "L" on it.. dont overcharge.. get a gauge.

If you have fixed the problem, it will likely reset itself after about 20 engine starts. Also, the local oil change/inspection station may do it for free. It takes a diagnostic reader to do it.

Depends on which computer system you're looking to check. One reason for the cost of the Q45 is the complexity and sophistication of it's on-board computers. In 1996, the Q45 was converted to OBDII (today's general standard for automotive diagnostics). The model years before that will require a Nissan CONSULT, or the Nissan DataScan and cable to interface with the car and allow you to perform PB tests and monitor the vehicle's performance and possible codes. More info can be found at Q45.org and the NICO Q45 Forums.

there should be two major bolts to the alternator one to losse'n up the belts and the other to release the alternator to the mount. loosen the belts first and then remove the belts.. after this it should be easy to replace the alternator

look in your fuse panel and locate the illumination fuse that should solve your problems

Mirrors reflect light without disturbing the incoming image, which is called specular reflection. A mirror reflects a light print of anything in front of it.

does it make noise?

check http://forums.nicoclub.com/

Actually its quite easy. First open the hood and remove the plastic shroud cover that covers the headlights, a/c condenser, and radiator. It works the same way for both left and right headlights. Now, start with the corner light/turn signal light. The corner light has to be removed first before you can get to the headlight for removal.You should see a small arm that attaches the corner light to the headlight. Remove the small screw that attaches the small arm. I don't know the proper name, but the corner lights have little round metal ball shaped plugs on the back that insert into holes to hold the light in place. You have to dislodge the corner light from these inserts. Don't worry, its easy to do. Now that you have the screw removed from the small arm, now go to the outside of the vehicle to the corner light. Insert a flat blade screwdriver or something similar behind the corner light and gently pry it straight forward. If you use a screwdriver or other metal instrument you might want to tape it or cushion it in some fashion so you don't chip or mar the paint at the edge of the corner light's location. Now, with the corner light removed, you now have complete access to all of the mounting screws for main headlight. That's all that's to it.

Naturally if you are going to remove the headlights, you need to disconnect the bulbs from the headlight housing.