Isuzu

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did you try mossberg shotguns for parts,the 500 is almost the same as your gun ?

on a 1.9 liter its .040". there should be a sticker inside the engine hood that shows your smog schematic with some other info as well.

Ummm no where??!!?! for one a b2200 is a Mazda pick up and in that case it would be on the drivers side half way back affixed to the inner side of the frame rail :P simalair location on either truck though

Both the driver side and passenger side mirrors are held to the exterior of the vehicle by three bolts that go into the interior of the door panel. This means that in order to replace the mirros you have to remove the interior door panel. Depending on the options that came with your vehicle it may help to have a trim pad removal tool. It costs a few bucks and you can find this handy universal tool at any auto supply store. Before you remove the door there are a few screws that have to be removed. One of them is behind the interior door handle and the other one is inside the armrest portion of the door. After those screws have been removed removing the door panel is basically using the trim pad removal tool to take off the window crank(if necessary), remove a few clips that are along the outer edge of the door, then pulling the door panel off. Once the door panel is removed you should see the three bolts that hold the side mirrors on.

Should be on the small, black tank, attached to the inside of the passenger side wheel well inside the engine compartment. Should be covered with a small, black screw-off cap.

2.5l per kilometer loaded 20

drivers side under dash to the left of column

How many liters of oil

What type of transmission fluid i can use in my Isuzu nQr 2017 instead of SCS ?

NO... Its too loud and not comfortable... i drive 2005 npr about 600 miles a day and that truck is not made for this. I would recommend a fuso truck its much more better and i had less problems with it

The PCV valve can be found on the air cleaner housing. The PCV valve will be on the back of the air cleaner housing. The valve should be labeled as such.

depending on the climate. you can use 10w30 on every car. so you could be safe by putting in 10w30

EITHER BUY A CHILTON BOOK FOR YOUR VEHICLE AT PARTS STORE, OR CONTACT A DEALER ASK THEM FOR DIAGRAM, YOU WILL HAVE TO NO WHAT MOTOR IS IN YOUR VEHICLE AND MAYBE YOUR REG FOR VEHICLE ID # OR ASK FOR A MANUEL FOR YOR VEHICLE

2002 WAS THE LAST YEAR. I HAVE ONE. THE ASCENDER TOOK THE PLACE OF THE TROOPER.

12

18000 lbs gcwr

If the spark plug is stripped, replace it, if the hole in the cylinder head is stripped, the first thing to do is run a tap or thread chaser through the hole, if that does not work, you will need a helicoil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helicoil

I would begin by unfortunately asking another question first. What is your experince level with pad and shoe replacement? Second I would advise the trip to the local parts store for one of Chiltons repair guides for your model and next listen to any advise the counter person has. Typically those folks have quite a bit of automotive experince and can save a lot of time and heartache with just a few words. Thirdly use good quality jack stands and a jack rated for the vehicle. Now then, while not being familiar with the 2003 model I will make a few assumptions and give you the standard truck with hub and shoes version. 1.Most important...level surface, break loose the lug nuts on the ground with the parking brake on as you will likely not be able to after it is off the ground...only crack them loose Do Not Back Them Off. 2. Chock front wheels take parking brake Off as it will prevent the hub removal later. 3. Jack up the wheel you will be working on and only do one side at a time (also a digital camera is great for reference if you do not have a picture or book to go by)MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS STABLE and on stands which are rated for its weight. 4.remove the lug nuts and wheel...now you are staring at the hub...it may be worn on the inside a little and the shoes may be inside a bit of a track making it difficult to remove. refrain from prying against the back plate as it is not really all that substantial. LIGHT tapping and I repeat LIGHT tapping around the outside of the drum sometimes shakes stubborn rotors...rubber mallet preffered. 5. once the (drum and hub...same thing)is off you should take note of the spring positions and at the top you will see the "wheel cylinder" it is the small deal (typically at the top with rubber ends that forces the shoes out to contact the hub)should be inspected...it should be dry..that is no break fluid..brake dust is going to be there..but if any fluid is around in there it will have to be replaced.6. now is the nice time to take a poloroid or digital photo so you know where things are and how they should look when you are finished...also now is the time for inspection of the inside of the hub..drum whichever you want to call it...its minimum thickness is often cast into the metal...if not the library or Chiltons manual will tell you if you are below that thickness...replace if needed..do not skimp on brake parts..they are far to important (a car that won't start is a bad thing.....a car that won't stop is a deadly thing.)7.brake spring pliers are available if you like at most auto stores and they make things easier...if that gets into the budget too much a good pair of regular pliers will work...carefully remove the springs noting their condition and position...if they look pitted..cracked..just plain not good replace them...spring kits are sold separately most of the time...in fact always in my experience.8. remove all the springs and shoes..the little coil springs with the cup retainers are usually the ones that cause the invention of new and exiting curse words...it sometimes helps to have a friend hold the nail looking rod while you turn the retaining cup...especially for installation.9. clean everything...do your best to keep any oil grease or fluid off of the new shoes as this will contaminate them and reduce their stopping power and longevity.10. Put her back together with those shiney new parts and refer to you own sketches..photos or manuals to see that everyting looks as it should and that the self adjuster rod...( the thing with the spur like wheel attached is contacting its actuator and that the parking brake cable...you will know it when you see it...is attached and looks like it should.11. put the hub(technically the hub is the flat plate with the lug bolts in it now that I think about it...)..put the drum back over it and access the adjuster wheel from the back side..adjust the new shoes until you just make contact with the hub. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts as much as you can before returning the vehicle to the ground. Once back on the ground fully tighten the lugs in oposition to on another..no1.then6.then 2. then 4..my numbers are arbitrary...but you get what i mean..Now that side is done so go to the next one...it will be much easier now that you have the experience...mostly try to keep a cool head and frequent stops for walking around and regaining composure are perfectly o.k. ....it will keep you safe and cost you less in the long term...Good luck sincerely Randy R. Lex KY let me know how it comes out.....richardsonrandal@yahoo.com

0.16 cold both intake and exhouse

From what I understand, you have to diconnect the exhaust system on the side that the starter motor is located on. To reassemble you have to replace the exhaust gasket with a new one. If you are replacing the starter, there is a GM starter that is a direct replacement for the Isuzu starter and costs quite a bit less.

the isuzu impolse manifold will fit.

timing belt

A wiring diagram can be found at this website: http://www.abcccodes.com/95-isuzu-npr-wiring-diagram/ for the Isuzu NPR. The diagram can be downloaded as a PDF file.