Jeep Liberty

Yes, you can add a subwoofer to a factory Jeep Liberty stereo. This typically involves using a line output converter to connect the subwoofer to the factory head unit's speaker wires, or by using a subwoofer amplifier with a high-level input. Make sure to choose a subwoofer that fits your space and power requirements, and consider upgrading the vehicle's electrical system if needed to support the additional power draw. Professional installation may be recommended for optimal performance and integration.

Replacing the transmission on a 2005 Jeep Liberty typically takes between 10 to 15 labor hours, depending on the mechanic's experience and the specific conditions of the vehicle. Factors such as accessibility, any additional repairs needed, and the type of transmission being installed can also influence the total time required. Always consult with a professional mechanic for a more accurate estimate.

To replace the AC expansion valve on a 2007 Jeep Liberty, first, ensure the system is fully discharged and remove the refrigerant. Disconnect the battery, then access the valve by removing the dash panel and any necessary components to reach the AC evaporator. Unscrew the old expansion valve, install the new one, and reassemble everything in reverse order. Finally, recharge the AC system with refrigerant and check for leaks.

The average cost of rebuilding a 2003 Jeep Liberty 3.7L engine typically ranges from $2,500 to $4,500, depending on factors such as labor rates, the extent of repairs needed, and whether new or refurbished parts are used. Additional costs may arise for necessary components like gaskets, seals, and other engine internals. It's advisable to get multiple estimates from local mechanics or rebuild shops for a more accurate quote.

On a 2003 Jeep Liberty, the air conditioner compressor relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC), which is typically found under the hood near the battery. To access it, remove the cover of the PDC, and you will find the relay labeled for the air conditioning system. If you need to replace it, refer to the diagram on the underside of the PDC cover for proper identification.

The Jeep Liberty typically requires about 6 to 8 quarts of transmission fluid, depending on the model year and whether it's equipped with a manual or automatic transmission. It's essential to check the owner's manual for the specific transmission fluid capacity for your vehicle. Additionally, when changing the fluid, always ensure you use the recommended type of transmission fluid specified by the manufacturer.

The coolant capacity of a 2003 Jeep Liberty with a 3.7L V6 engine is approximately 12 quarts (or about 3 gallons). This includes the capacity of the radiator, engine, and the heater core. It's always a good idea to check the owner's manual for the most accurate specifications and recommendations.

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve on a 2003 Jeep Liberty is typically located on the engine's intake manifold, near the throttle body. It is connected to the exhaust system via a pipe that allows exhaust gases to re-enter the intake. For the 3.7L V6 engine, the EGR valve can be found on the driver's side of the engine bay, while the 2.4L engine may have a slightly different placement. Always refer to the vehicle’s service manual for the exact location and removal instructions.

Approx $410.00 with a tailpipe included without tax. This is how its usually repaired as the tailpipe is not easily separated from the muffler. The labor to separate and reuse the old pipe is nearly as much if not more as the new pipe. They are usually replaced together for that reason.

On a 2003 Jeep Liberty, the switch to operate the rear wiper is typically located on the dashboard near the steering wheel. It is usually a small knob or button that can be easily accessed by the driver. If you are having trouble locating it, consult the vehicle's owner's manual for a detailed diagram and instructions.

Oh, dude, a Jeep Liberty does have a cabin air filter, like most cars these days. It's there to keep all the gross stuff out of your car's air system, so you can breathe in all that fresh, filtered air while you're cruising around. So, yeah, if you want to keep your car smelling nice and your lungs happy, make sure to change that filter every now and then.

You can find a tail light wiring diagram for a 2004 Jeep Liberty in several places. Online resources such as automotive repair websites like Mitchell1, AutoZone, or Haynes Manuals often provide wiring diagrams. Additionally, vehicle repair manuals available at bookstores or libraries may contain the diagram. You can also check Jeep forums or enthusiast communities, where members often share helpful resources.

The 2003 Jeep Liberty typically requires around 2-3 quarts of rear end fluid for a complete change. However, it's best to consult your owner's manual or a professional mechanic for the specific amount needed for your vehicle.

Just did this last night! Open the rear door. From the inside of the door look through the crack between the door and the inside of the tail light assy. There you will see two "star" head screws. You need a star screw driver at leat 6" long to reach them. After removing the two screws come around to the outside and pull the lamp assy from the body. There are two clips holding it to the body and it doesn't come loose easily! After removing the lamp from the body the top bulb unscrews from the lamp assy and pulls out. The replacement bulb # is 3157. .

Straight from the dealer, you want to unscrew the light first, then pull it straight out. It might sound light it is breaking, but it is just the plastic pins rubbing the metal. You may need to use a flat head to pry the light away from the body enough so you can get your fingers back there. Remember pull it straight out, and do not worry, it goes on easier then it comes off.

Zero from the factory.

Air tools and PB Blaster.

WARNING: DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY CAN OCCUR IF MAGNETICALLY SENSITIVE DEVICES ARE EXPOSED TO THE RELEARN MAGNET. MAGNETS CAN AFFECT PACEMAKERS. CAUTION: Never attempt to train more than one vehicle at a time. System is capable of reading tire pressure sensor transmissions from other nearby vehicles while in train mode. Each time a wheel rotation or tire pressure sensor replacement occurs the tire pressure sensors must be retrained. This is necessary to inform the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) that a sensor change was made and the new locations of the sensors. Retraining is accomplished through the EVIC used in conjunction with a Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. NOTE: Use the following procedure to retrain all five (5) tire pressure sensors. No attempt should be made to retrain individual sensors. # Retrieve Re-learn Magnet, Special Tool 8821. # Press MENU Button on EVIC until "RETRAIN TIRE SENSORS - NO" is displayed. # Press STEP button to select "YES". There is a 60 second timer for training the first sensor and a 30 second timer between training the remaining sensors. If either of these timers expire, the EVIC will abort the training procedure. If at any time the EVIC display reads "TRAINING ABORTED", move the vehicle ahead at least one foot and repeat the entire retraining procedure. # Press MENU button to start retraining. Display will read "TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE" NOTE: The order for retraining all five sensors is: * Left Front * Right Front * Right Rear * Left Rear * Spare # Starting at left front tire, place Re-learn Magnet over valve stem. Within approximately 5 seconds, vehicle horn will chirp indicating training complete for that particular sensor. Remove the magnet. # Repeat step (6) on remaining sensors as indicated by EVIC until all five TPM sensors positions are trained. # Once EVIC displays "TRAINING COMPLETE", pressing either STEP, C/T, RESET or MENU button will exit training routine.

If you have the 42RE transmission like I do, there is a picture located here along with a brief description on removing it, it is located on the drivers side right about the transmission fluid pan.

YOU CANT THEY ARE SELF SET.

I have a 2006 lberty and there is a star key type screw on each headlight near te radiator that allows you to adjust the beam up and down. Its recessed just below an opening on top of the light.

key on engine running is 31 psi with regualtor vacuume hose disconnected 39-41 psi key on engine running is 31 psi with regualtor vacuume hose disconnected 39-41 psi

The shifter lights in the 1999 Grand Cherokee is not a light bulb, but rather a thin EL panel.

There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.

You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.

There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.

Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.

Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.

You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attached to the resistor by two clips.

Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.

Re-install everything in the opposite order.

• If you have air conditioning it's condensation from your AC spilling into your vehicle instead of outside on the ground. It's a clogged line to your air conditioner which has been clogged with debris, leaves and such. A little compressed air should do the trick.
• It might also be a coolant leak from your heater core. It will have a slimy, greasy feel if it's coolant. It will also have a sweet odor. Do not taste - its poisonous.
• Yes, the mysterious water swooshing noise in the dashboard when turning, and/or water leaking under the dash at the passenger side, as well as possibly the heater fan sounding like it's spitting water…there can be only one explanation and this is IT.
• First, let me assure you that all manner of answers from mechanics have been researched and considered, but so far no one has yet answered this satisfactorily in any forum I have come across. Usually it is something along the lines of "coolant leak", evaporator core issues, etc etc but these fellows are missing the vital point…it is WATER not some exotic liquid cocktail usually associated with serious and expensive vehicle problems.
• I own a 1996 Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest which developed this problem after a heavy rainfall. Coincidence? NO WAY!
• I had the proverbial water leak beneath the passenger side dash, as well as what sounded like a bathtub full of water behind my dash swooshing back and forth.
• So here's the deal. These vehicles, like many others have a reservoir above the firewall just beneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield, which also houses the wiper motor, etc. typically the reservoir collects any water running from the windshield or rain in general. There are two drains one at the drivers side and one at the passenger side. These drains usually work great except when they become plugged with silt, debris from trees shedding leaves, insect matter etc. When this happens, the water simply collects and fills the reservoir with nowhere to go except into the fresh air intake for the cabin heating/cooling system located just above the passenger side glove compartment.
• The water then leaks into the venting ducts and onto the floor. It also stays in the reservoir and sloshes back and forth while driving.
• Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out and charge you ½ hr labor to remove the plastic shroud and unplug the drains. That's pretty much the extent of it. I did it myself and it took about 20 minutes.
• The wipers have to be removed. There is a release clip at the bottom of the wiper coupling where it meets the drive shaft. Pull it back and lift the wiper straight up and off the shaft. Remove the plastic pins ( they look like slotted screws) along the top of the shroud by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them straight out with some needle nose pliers. Open the hood and remove the rubber seal strip along the edge of the shroud. Find the little plastic holding pins and reach around to the bottom of each pin. You need to compress the little barbs on both sides of the pin to allow it to be pushed up through the hole. There are also 4 plastic push-lock pins holding the bottom edge of the shroud. You will have to pull up on the center (looks like a screw) of each pin and pull it almost all the way out. Then remove the whole pin assembly. A small sharp pair of end cutters works great. Now with a little bit of twisting and careful manipulation you should be able to pull the plastic piece up and out of the way. Start at the corners and pull the piece down and out from under the windshield trim. Then lift it up carefully and move it to rest on the windshield being careful not to disconnect any rubber hoses from the washer nozzles.
• The drains are located at the far edge of the trough in each corner. Use a straightened coat hanger or something similar to poke and clear the drain. Get your garden hose and with a good straight stream of water flush out each drain hole and make sure it is draining. Water will pour out of the rear of each wheel well just under the front of each door.
• Try using a spray of Lysol or other household disinfectant into the trough since it may have had stagnant water for some time. This will kill any bacteria that may have found it a haven for while and ensure that you will not be blowing it into the passenger compartment every time you turn on your blower.
• This happened to me, two huge puddles on my passenger side floor mat twice in one day. I looked up below the dash and found the hole it was dripping from. I found a nearby hose sticking out about two inches that wasn't connected to anything. Reconnected and problem solved. Just a disconnected hose.