Kia Rio

possible locations air filter housing and sometimes between air filter housing and inlet manifold sometimes part of mass air flow sensor usually located in air filter housing possible locations air filter housing and sometimes between air filter housing and inlet manifold sometimes part of mass air flow sensor usually located in air filter housing

The 2004 Kia Rio takes a 21" drivers side, 18" passenger side and a 14" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only. Be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

It is located on the side of the valve cover on the side where the battery is. It screws in and is a dealer only part.

Access the trunk area and remove the plastic side pockets. Remove the nut that is holding the thru screw. Go to exterior and remove the two holding screws, the light unit will now become loose. Pull on the unit to release the plastic "holdown" and the light unit will pop out. Replace the lights.

If you got the money, sure. They are great cars. I'd definitely recommend taking one for a test drive first though. Wheather you want the Rio5 (hatchback) or the Rio (4 dr Sedan) that's up to you. But yea, I got 46k on my 07 kia Rio and it's still running great. All I've had to do is general oil changes. There's some major maintenance/tune-up stuff at 30,60,90k but that's about it....

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All trims are designed with the same 1.6-liter inline four-cylinder engine. The base trims are connected to a 5-speed manual transmission, which was earlier traditional for all trims. However, the 2011 model is coupled to a 4-speed automatic transmission, which is the traditional transmission for the SX and LX trims. may be this'll help you in making a decision...

1994-2005 models: (1)remove the light assembly screws (lower the tailgate for access); (2)take the assembly out of the fender for access to the tail light bulbs. To remove the bulbs:(1)rotate the bulb socket to align the lugs and take the socket out of the housing; (2)carefully pry off the retaining clip and pull the bulb out of the socket; (3)installation is the reverse of removal. - Mazda Pickups Reapair Manual

Mapp sensor or you might need pugs and wires.

The 2008 Kia Rio runs on regular unleaded.

It means that your piston rings are shot. Time to rebuild or replace the engine. This is why kia's are so cheap, you get what you pay for. I hope for your sake its still under warrenty, make them buy it back under the lemon law and get yourself a good used Toyota, Honda, or American vehicle.

Do you mean that the car will not shift into first? The clutch is the left pedal on the floor and should work independently of which gear is selected. If the car will not shift into first the clutch may need to be replaced, transmission synchros or gear teeth for first gear could be damaged(chipped,missing or broken) or the shift selector shaft might need to be realigned and/or have it's bushings replaced.

Using a screwdriver, remove the screws and the clips in the door panel, then slowly pull the panel off the frame. Remove the wiring connections, and the panel will come free.

It isn't if you live in Korea. The Sorento is now being made in West Point, Georgia.

The gas tank on the 2001 Kia Rio holds 11.9 gal..

1st disconnect your battery Starter purchased from Auto Zone cheaper than Schucks. Cool thing though if you call Schucks they will get even cheaper than that. I just went with whoever had in stock. (autozone $107 / $56?? core charge) (Tools that I needed. 14mm socket for mounting bolts, 13 mm socket (i thimk for the hot wire on starter), and a drop light. You need to jack up the front end pretty high both sides and put jack stands under each side. (extra precaution I put wood under the wheels because I dont like getting crushed. Slide under your car (bring a drop light) Look up and see your oil filter. Now look left and you will see the starter motor (oh yeah there is a pain in the as s bracket in the way) remove that bracket (14mm should be right) and then remove the bottom bolt of the starter (you may need a long socket extension here 8"?) The next set of bolts you have to get from up above that come from the other side. Get your light in there the one on the left side is easiest so get that last. The one on the right side will have a wiring harness running really close to it. Force your 14mm socket onto it with a 4 in extension. (Oh yeah the extensions that I bought were from Freight hrbor Tools that were wobbler extensions?? So that the socket can roll side to side a bit... I didnt intend to buy them like that..but it was cool that they were like that for this area, but not necessary) Back the bolt off till it spins a free but leav it in the hole. Remove the second one until you hear the unit fall. Fish that pig out of there and reverse steps to put back together. When putting the two bolts from the other side in, dont reef on them to get them super tight, one of mine stripped so get it snug but dont go crazy. Have a couple beers and bit ch about why the Koreans made this thing such a pain the a$$ to work on. Save your core and get $50 back Side not mine went out at 60K and at 55K my timing belt went out. i was a lucky one that it didnt shrapnel and the mechanic that replaced the belt said that 99 out of 100 the whole engine would have been shot. If you are really close to your warranty like over by 4 months and this happens get the Kia rep to replace the belt just to get some satisfaction, because they wont replace the damage engine because the timing belt is your responsiblity. Worst warranty in the world.

Mine just blew out at 84,000 miles and took out the engine. The manual says to replace the belt at 105,000. Crap. Probably best to replace it at 60,000.

Just use carb cleaner and q tip make sure it drys before you put it back on.

Are garbage and should be changed every 50,000 miles

First of all pop the trunk and then use a screwdriver to pull the light out and go to Canadian Tire and purchase a new light.

Inside the glove box on the left hand side behind a small removable panel. Certain fuses are mounted here as well.

fuel injector cleaner sometimes helps also you may not be starting the engine properly,see the question below entitled "why does my car stall but the electrical system still work?" my car will stall several times a day if i dont go thru this sequence.

Take off your Plastic cover on the engine, (keep bolts in grooves and lift whole plastic cover w/bolts), facing towards engine, look on the top right corner of the valve cover (you will see two vacuum lines attached to the head/valve cover. Bottom line (one closest to you) should be attached to the PCV valve. You should see a pinch clip (remove vacuum line at this time) and rotate left (facing PCV valve) to remove. If valve is going you might see some oil seepage around top right corner of valve cover due to pressure build up. Hope this helps, I have a 2002 Kia W/1.5L not 1.6L but should be similar.

Depends on whether you mean rear or front. Rear are inner and outer mounted on an axle spindle with a thrust washer and lock nut. Oil seal is located in the inside with rubber on the last shaped part of the spindle. Torque on lock nut is first 18-22 ft lbs then back off to allow the thust washer to move freely on the spindle. At this point a drag guage or scale is necessary to measure the drag of the oil seal (brakes backed off before this is done). That amount of drag plus 2.6 to 8.5 newtons of drag totaled (the orignal seal drag plus the specified amount by the manufacturer) added together is what you will need and get by tightening the lock nut to reach the total value. That's called pre-loading the bearings. If you over-tighten or under-tighten you will quickly wear out the bearings and may end up loosing your wheel while driving. So be sure to invest in a drag scale for a few bucks and do it correctly.

Front are completety different.

Remove the 2 10mm bolts and 2 10mm nuts in the top cover. The plugs are in a straight line in the center of the engine.

Make sure you have a deep well spark plug socket and a long extension (at least 6") to reach the plugs. They sit down inside the cylinder head.