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Kia Rio
The Kia Rio series is a subcompact car manufactured from 2000 to the present. Two generations of this car have been produced – all are equipped with front-wheel drive, and inline-four diesel and gasoline engines.
919 Questions
What fuses are in the fuse box on a 2002 Kia Rio?
All the fuses for the 2002 Kia Rio's electrical components are found in the fuse box. The fuse box houses the relays and fuses that will prevent any electrical components from shortening out on a Kia Rio.
What are some causes of brake fluid leakage on a 2003 Kia Rio?
The best way to find out where the leak is coming from is to inspect/observe, if possible. As far as what parts could be the culprit, there's the brake master cylinder, a hydraulic brake hose, or a brake caliper.
How do you change the MAPP sensor on a Kia Rio?
there is no MAP sensor on a Kia Rio from 2001 to 2005 they have Mass Air Flow Meters, and to change that you will have to remove the air box sitting next to the firewall as it it bolted to that box
Where is the oil filter located on a 2005 Kia Rio?
If its the same as a 2000 model it is at the back of the engine, you can reach it from above.
Where do you add transmission fluid in a 2004 Kia Rio?
The tube where the dipstick for the transmission goes is where you add the tranny fluid. You will probably need one of those funnels with the really long neck, so that you can get the fluid into the tube without pouring it all over the place. Be careful that you don't overfill the transmission! they didnt say it was automatic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How do you change the thermostat on a 2001 Kia Rio?
You remove cover then remove air filter unscrew the 2 bolts holding the thermostat(round dome looking thing) replace with new thermostat. Make sure you replace gasket also. The thermostat is located at the end of the large hose that comes off the radiator.
How do you remove the tail light bulb from a Hyundai Santa Fe?
I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa fe, they way I changed the tail lights was to open the hatch door, thus exposing the screws that hold the light lens assembly. these screws are two(2) hex type screws. Next with the screws off then you need to pull gently the lens assembly off. I had to use a flat needle nose plier to place it under the assembly to pry it off the car. Careful not to force it because the lens assembly also is held to the chasy of the car by a sort of a plastic pin that goes into a hole of the chasis. Just slowly place the needle nose pliers under the lens while pulling gently the lens in a straight line motion, you will feel it give way. placing the assembly back on is opposite of taking it off good luck
How long is roadside assistance included with the 2014 Kia Rio?
The 2014 Kia Rio includes 5 yr./ 60000 mi. of roadside assistance.
How to replace or repair brakes on 2001 Kia Rio?
whats the point? it's a kia... throw it out and get somethin with more than 3 letters in its name
What is the firing order for a Kia Sephia?
the sephia uses the waste spark method so it's 1 and 3 then 2 and 4. You can't go wrong with this one, the wires won't reach to let you.
Note !!! This rotor goes counter clockwise meaning
3 1
4 2
will be the connectors on the distributor as you look at them. My old distributor had these printed right on it. Cylinder 1 being on the passenger side of the car.
How much torque does the engine in the 2008 Kia Rio have?
The 2008 Kia Rio's engine produces 107 ft-lbs. @ 4500 rpm.
What is the basic warranty on the 2005 Kia Rio?
The 2005 Kia Rio has a 5 yr./ 60000 mi. basic warranty.
How do you change the language on your kia forte from french to english?
Help how do I change from French to English on my Forte?
How do you replace alternator Kia Rio?
1. Jack up the passenger side of the car and block it up on the frame
2. Remove the passenger side wheel
3. Remove the lower Black Plastic cover in the wheel well
4. Put a floor jack under the motor on the oil pan for engine support
5. Remove the two bolts on the engine mount if front of the timing belt cover
6. Disconnect the battery and remove the wires on the alternator
7. Remove the adjusting bolts and brackets on the top side of the alternator
8. Slide off the Belt
9. Remove the final long bolt at the bottom of the Alternator
10. Remove the Alternator by moving it around and jacking up the motor to give you extra room. You may have to pry it slightly as it is a tight squeeze
11. Be careful jacking up the motor, you may want to remove the lower rad hose from the water pump, release the bolt holding the power steering reservoir also. Do not jack too high as to break off the front exhaust pipes either.
12. When putting the new Alternator back in, you may have to pry it in a bit, try not to crack the case of the Alternator, choose a thicker spot.
13. It will fit back in because I did it, just have patience.
14. Put all parts back in as removed, tighten to specs as necessary, do not over tighten the nut for the wire to the Alternator, snug it in gently.
15. Good Luck
16. Any questions on the Kia Rio, try cliff.kutney@rogers.com, I may be able to help.
Where can you find 2003 kia Rio engine diagram 1.6L?
This diagram should be in the users manual. If you cannot find your manual, it is a good idea to look online for an image.
How do you remove dashboard from Kia Rio?
The dashboard has eight retaining clips. Take a flat head route driver and probably up on each individual retaining clip. The dashboard will come off.
What is the basic warranty on the 2006 Kia Rio?
The 2006 Kia Rio has a 5 yr./ 60000 mi. basic warranty.
How do you remove crankshaft pulley bolt on a Kia Sedona?
Before undertaking this effort you should first know that the crankshaft pulley bolt is a recall part from KIA a TON of people have complained about the issue. It basically boils down to sub-par parts, but let's face it you bought a KIA :).
To check on whether you vehicle falls under the warrantee get your VIN # from the door or the plate in the driver's side window and call 1-800-333-4542
I have done this myself and can say absolutely that this is not a job you want to take on if you do not have to. I have worked on cars professionally for over a decade and this one really made my stomach sick. After quite a lot of work in removing the crank shaft bolt I found that the bolt had cracked, yes cracked, in the crankshaft. Imagine how fun that was to remove, and what it did to the threads in the crank, that of course need to be repaired.
BE CAREFUL! During this process you may need to remove the radiator, and move the A/C coil. Both of these are fragile, and trust me you do not want to break them, or even just bend the coils. You also want to be ABSOLUTELY sure that you DO NOT turn the engine backwards; if you do you may bend the valves.
On a scale of 1 to 10 I would say this is a 4, but there is significant risk to be aware of.
If you are still determined to do this you self it is pretty strait forward:
-Remove the engine shroud (10mm, Philips centered bolts)
-Remove the plastic veneer on top of the radiator (Unscrew with Philips then pull out, they are like wall anchors and expand in the hole when the center screw is sunk)
-Remove the belts. There are three of these and all on pulley tension-ers. You first need to find them. One is top-driver, one top-passenger, and one lower passenger. You will need to loosen the retaining nut that is on the center of the pulley (14 mm) then back off the tension bolt (14mm). These are all normal thread so righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. If you strip any of these, as they appear to be cheap steel, you should be able to replace them at your local hardware store, ask for the hardened or stainless stuff.
-Room getting to the bolt is an issue. There is a special tool to span the pulley with Dow pins that fit into two holes on the pulley. This is meant to hold the crank still while turning the retaining bolt. The pulley looks pressed on though, so in my case where the bolt broke the pulley was already loose, and a nightmare. This would not work for me, and I could not find any way to hold the crank still (suggestions are welcome). The other option is to use a powerful impact; the hope being that this will turn the bolt without turning the crank (you still need to be careful, but it is at your own risk). If you can use the spanning tool to do this, it may be worth the investment. If you want to go this route you can skip to the step marked with "*" down below. For the rest of you, we will remove the radiator and push back the condenser coil so that we have room to operate.
-Remove the fan assembly. There are two 10mm bolts that attach the fan assembly to the Radiator. These are located at the top of the assembly. There are electrical components on the passenger side of the assembly that will also need to be removed. Be careful with these. There are some tabs to squeeze and then pull out the clip (you should put dialectic grease in here before re-attaching these later). After removing the bolt and the electric you should be able to lift the assembly out.
-Drain the radiator. This includes removing the coolant (which is hazardous keep it away from you animals and kids, and do not let it just sink into your ground, take it to the dump). There is a top (return) and bottom (supply) hose (1 1/2" hose) and a small (1/2" hose, overflow). These all have spring clips on them that can remove with a pair of pliers.
-You will also need to remove the power steering lines and fluid. Again collect this fluid as it can be nasty; it should also go to the dump, we can take advantage of this work and flush this fluid at this time, which at it simplest consists of drain and refill. There are two hoses that connect to the radiator. One comes from a separate coil (the small one at the front bottom) and another that comes from the power steering pump. These are both located along the bottom of the radiator.
-Remove the radiator. I would suggest not moving the radiator until all the bolts are removed. There are two 12mm retaining nuts on either side of the radiator, save these for last. There are then four 10mm bolts attaching the A/C condenser coil to the radiator. These are at the four corners of the radiator, and you will need about 1'+ of extensions to reach through the bumper to get to the lower ones. You then need to detach the power steering coil from the radiator. There are 4 10mm bolts attached to the bottom of the radiator; 2 on both sides. There is one final one that got me. It is a single 10mm bolt, that attaches a hose leading to the PS coil, to the radiator. This is at the very bottom in the middle. Finally remove the two 12mm bolts on either side of the radiator. The radiator should then come out though this is an effort in and of itself, as things are abit tight. BE GENTLE!!! These coils are aluminum and tear easily, do not add to the problem.
*-Now comes the fun part. The crankshaft pulley bolt is a 22mm. It is torqued to about 130 lbs so it takes some oomph to get it off. Get you self a nice Air impact gun and go to it. The thread IS NOT reverse. Eventually the bolt will come loose and then assembly is the opposite of removal, make absolutly sure you get the right replacement bolt. They changed it, and the torque needs to be 145lbs on it, use a torque wrench.
GOOD LUCK!!!
Feel free to plagiarize this. I am not interested in the credit, just getting the info out there.
How do you replace front wheel bearings on 04 rio?
# Remove the front wheels. # Remove the center locknut. Discard the old locknut. # Remove the caliper assembly from the knuckle. Do not disconnect the brake lines. Support the caliper with a piece of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose at any time. Remove the brake disc. # Remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) speed sensor, if equipped. # Remove the tie rod end cotter pin and nut. # Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle assembly. # Remove the outer lower arm-to-ball joint mounting bolt and nut. # Remove the lower arm from the knuckle assembly. # Remove the knuckle assembly free of the halfshaft, using a plastic mallet. # Remove the knuckle assembly. # Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws. # Remove the inner oil seal from the knuckle, if equipped. # Remove the front wheel hub from the knuckle assembly, using an appropriate hub-puller. # Remove the bearing inner race from the front wheel hub. NOTE
If the bearing inner race still remains on the hub assembly, grind a section of the bearing inner race until about 0.02 in. (0.50mm) remains. Remove with a chisel.
# Remove the retaining ring from within the knuckle. # Remove the front wheel bearing from the knuckle, using a wheel bearing removal tool to press it out. # Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing.
To install: # Install the new wheel bearing into the knuckle assembly, using the press tools. # Install the wheel bearing retaining ring. # Install the front wheel hub, using a press and the correct bearing driver. # Install a new oil seal using the appropriate seal driver and a hammer. Tap the oil seal in evenly until the special tool contacts the steering knuckle. Coat the lip of the oil seal with grease. # Install the bearing/hub and knuckle assembly in place. Loosely tighten the knuckle to shock absorber bolt. # Install the lower arm ball joint to the knuckle. Tighten the nut to 32-40 ft. lbs. (43-54 Nm) for Sephia and Spectra, to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm) for Rio or to 74-88 ft. lbs. (100-120 Nm) for Optima. # Install the halfshaft to the knuckle assembly. # Install the wheel speed sensor, if equipped with ABS and tighten the bolts to 12-17 ft. lbs. (16-23 Nm) # Install the tie rod end to the knuckle and tighten the nut to 22-32 ft. lbs. (29-41 Nm) for Rio, Sephia and Spectra or to 18-25 ft. lbs. (24-34 Nm) for Optima. # Install a new cotter pin. # Install a new wheel hub locknut. Tighten the nut to 155-200 ft. lbs. (214-279 Nm) for 1.8L Sephia and Spectra, to 116-174 ft. lbs. (157-235 Nm) for 2002-2005 Rio, 144-188 (200-260 Nm) for 2006 Rio and 2.0L Spectra or to 148-192 ft. lbs. (200-260 Nm) for Optima. # Check the end-play of the wheel bearing by installing a dial indicator against the wheel hub and tire to move the brake disc back and forth. There should be no more than 0.002 in. (0.05mm) of free-play present. # Stake the locknut into place by bending it into the groove. # Install the brake caliper(s) and tighten the bolts to 33-50 ft. lbs. (45-67 Nm) # Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle. # With the vehicle lowered check all of the bolts and retighten as necessary. # Inspect the front end alignment and adjust as is necessary.
How do you replace a tail light bulb?
Open the trunk. Pull back the carpeting directly behind the tail light that needs to be changed. Turn the bulb assembly to the left and it should come loose. Then replace the bulb and place the assembly back in and turning it the opposite way to lock it back into place. Replace carpeting.
How do you get rid off the engine light in a Kia Rio?
Try disconnecting the battery for about 10 mins. or have vehicle scanned to determine the problem, engine light also comes on when gas is pumped while car is on sometimes
An lx model of a Kia Rio
answer
This vehicle is available in hatchback Rio5 SX and LX, and Base trim levels. Thus LX is a trim of KIA RIO.
