Mazda 6

I have a 2005 Mazda 6s (V6 engine). There are 4 Oxygen sensors on my engine. You will need a special slotted socket wrench. It cost about ten dollars at your local auto parts store. It's designed with a slot in the side wall to fit over the wires coming out of the top of the sensor. On each side of the engine there are two sensors. One at the top of the catalytic converter and one in the pipe just below the converter. You go at the ones in the bottom of the converter from under the car and the ones in the top of the catalytic converter can be removed from inside of the engine compartment. You will have to remove the engine cover and the intake manifold to get at the sensor on the back side of the engine near the fire wall. Be sure and disconnect the connector of the oxygen sensor so the wires will not be damaged while you remove or replace the sensor. I'm sure if your car has a 4 cylinder engine you will have just two on the front side of the engine. One just below the exhaust manifold and just below the catalytic converter. Same procedures less work.

A sill is an intrusive body of magma that pushes its way between layers of sediments.

=Squanto was born in a village located near New Plmouth.=

Go to MPVclub.com they have step by steps

The 2004 Mazda 6 takes a 22" drivers side, 18" passenger side and the wagon takes a fairly specialized 12" rear wiper that is difficult to find in the stores. The hatchback takes a more standard 20" rear wiper blade. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are currently over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

Depends what year. The 00-04 Optima/Sonata 2.4 liter 4 cylinder has 2 rubber timing belts and is what is called a "interference" engine. Anyway, the belts are the weak link and they fail at 70-100 thousand miles. To change them at 60,000 (recomended mileage) it will set you back 800.00. Now what car now days costs 800.00 for a 60,000 mile maintenence interval????????? Anyway if you dont, you have a paperweight with kia badges. So in an honest answer the Mazda with its Ford derived engines (both 2.5 and 3.0) is the way to go. The 05 Optimas and Sonatas have a chain like every other timing system in the world, which leads me to believe Kia and Hyundai learned their lesson through warranty concerns. Funny their engine warranty is at 60,000 ;)

VIN = Vehicle ID Number

If the brakes on a Mazda 6 are squeaking, it could be indicative of a problem. The brake pads could be incorrectly set.

A person can use a dry, lint-free rag to clean out the solenoid valve. A person can also use oven cleaner and a dry lint-free rag to clean the solenoid valve.Ê

Its located on the passenger side near the bottom,you can see it from the top if you follow the belts on the side of the engine...

I have a 2003 Mazda 6 with a 6 cylinder engine. I doubt much was changed by the 2005 model year. If I remember the wrench size, I will add a comment. Here's what I did: 1. Disconnect battery terminals. 2. Remove the battery harness (10mm). 3. Remove the battery. 4. Remove the battery tray (10mm). 5. Remove two machine screws holding the wiring harness bracket to allow additional working space (8mm). 6. Disconnect the positive terminal connection and the start trigger connection from the starter. 8. An enthusiast would probably disconnect the cooling system hoses that are in the way of the front mounting bolt, but it seemed to be a lot of work, so I worked around the hoses. The front bolt is in a tight space, but is accessible with a box-end wrench. A ratcheting box-end might fit, but I did not have that type of tool. Remove bolt (I think these are 13mm). 9. The rear bolt is accessible with a socket wrench fitted with an extension. 10. Remove starter. It's a bit of a puzzle, but it comes out with no real difficulty. 11. Replace starter and reverse the above steps.

the runner is inside intake there are too solenoids on top and a accutuator on the side were throttle body is

You don't.

You have to remove the front bumper to change the head lamp , i did it one time on my Mazda 6 2003 .

Regards

Abdullah al brahim from K.S.A

pat itself is about $25. Very eazy to replace. Take off the passanger side wheel, the sensor is located on the back side of the engine right at the botton. You will need a 8mm socket wrench to take of off. You can get to it through the opening for the axle.

Since no model year was given for the Mazda 5, here is the general procedure for brake light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement brake light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement brake light bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for brake light bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

it's mounted on the end of the rubber intake rube that goes into the throttle body---it has a set screw on top and two black small vacuum tubes connected into it, as well as a wire

You'll need to remove the glove box to gain access to the filter housing. No worries, this is very simple (even though my explanation may be long-winded).

Open the glove box. While it's open, look on the outside of the RIGHT sidewall of it--you'll see a black string with a loop on the end that's on a plastic hook. this is attached to a damper that allows your glove box to open more gently.

grab the string and pull it out towards the glove box until it stops and hold it. then while you have that slack from holding it, unhook the loop on the end from the plastic hook on the glove box. let the string go--don't worry, you'll still be able to reach it again.

now squeeze both sides of the glove box in to unhook the retaining studs, and swing the glove box down. now pull it down and away from the dash--you may have to give it a small amount of effort to un-clip it.

now look into the cavity you just pulled the glove box out of--you should see a rectangle, either black or off-white in color on the front of what is essentially your a/c vent case. the rectangle is a snap-on cover and is approximately 1.5 - 2 inches tall and 8 inches wide. un-clip and remove it.

with the glove box out and the cover off, you're now looking at your cabin air filter. it will simply slide out, though you'll have to squeeze it some to get it around the rest of the dash, both removing the old one and installing the new one. no worries, this is very doable without damaging anything.

remove the old one and put the new one in. note how the old one was installed, and/or note the arrow that should be on the new one--if there is an arrow, it must point down when you put the new filter in. also, before putting the new one in, you have an opportunity to grab extra leaves, etc. out of there if the filter was particularly dirty. (SEE WARNING AT BOTTOM--TURN OFF BLOWER FAN FIRST!)

put the cover back on. hook the bottom of the glove box (the hinge) back on. reach inside and find the black string from earlier and pull it out until it stops, and out of the way of the glove box. swing the glove box up until the retaining studs pop back in, and let it rest open. hook the loop on the end of the black string back onto the plastic hook on the side of the glove box. shut the glove box.

you're done!

all together this should take max around 15 minutes if you've never done it before, including time to find everything I'm talking about. once you've done it before, it takes about 1 or 2 minutes.

WARNING!!!!!: turn the blower motor (fan) OFF before you do this--the filter sits right above it, and you risk injuring your fingers if you accidentally reach down in the case while the fan is running.

if you are talking about the oil drain plug it's called a "torx" bit size t45

take it to a garage ??

I just started looking into this myself. The black engine cover is a press fit. Just put your hands under both sides of the front of it and lift it up/off. The spark plugs are vertically mounted directly under the cover, so removal should be straight forward. RandyJ 1-22-08 lift

could someone please tell me how to remove the front headlight unit from a Mazda 6.? the light housing where the bulb goes is loose causing my light alighnment to be off and i cannot get my hand in from behind to try to fix it.