Mazda RX-7

not sure what year you have but on 1986-1991 it is on the ignition coil closest to the battery

Exactly like bleeding the brakes...

Behind the motor on the drivers side, towards the center of the firewall, you will see a shrader valve (Bleeder) for your clutch. Have another person with you for this.

Have the friend or whoever sit in the drivers seat and you at the bleeder and do the following.

1. Pump the clutch about 6 times and hold (do not release clutch yet)

2. Un-screw the bleeder(DO NOT TAKE IT OFF!!!, JUST UNSCREW ENOUGH UNTIL YOU SEE FLUID COME OUT). Then tighten it back.

NOTE: While bleeding, check the clutch slave cylinder because if that becomes empty, you will have air enter the system fast. so have a large bottle to flush/bleed system.

Repeat step 1 and 2, 3-5 times because you need to make sure you not only flush the system, but get rid of all the air from the system. if you don't then you will be able to shift while driving, then mysteriously you can't get the clutch in unless you "pump the clutch" a million times before you are able to disengage the clutch.

If you know how to bleed brakes, it's EXACTLY THE SAME.

0.29 Imperial gallons.

2 1/8 I think it's metric actually, but at that size it won't make a difference.

Felix Wankel!

you have to modify UIM and LIM notch the frame of your car. unless you get turbo 2 UIM and LIM but you will still have to modify the manifolds to accept the N/A Block. Also don't scimp on your fuel system.

(I'm in the process of doing this myself)

non turbos should be around $2500 for good shape, and $4000 for a turbo.....

The Rx-7 Veilside you are referring to is just a regular Rx-7 FD3S modified with a Veilside Fortune bodykit. It does nothing in terms of performance. So in conclusion, a Nissan 370z is faster. ( but uglier. what? you didnt see this part.)

The rotary engine has a total of 4 spark plugs, the top 2 fire first with the front housing fire first.

Hope this helps.

A hydrolic clutch has a master cylinder on the driver side mounted on the fire wall that is compressed and released by the cluch petal. The hydrolic fluid moves from the master cylinder through a 18 inch long rubber hose to a slave cylinder that is mounted on the engine near the transmission. There the hydrolic fluid presses a shaft out from the slave cylinder that moves a lever that engages and disengages the clutch itself. The cluch is sprung, and presses back against the slave cylinder shaft. An older model RX7 often fails to hold the hydrolic fluid in the master or slave cylinder because the seals fail due to old age and pitting of the walls of the cylinder. Replacing both cylinders and the hose is a normal maintenance replacement, and costs around US$100. If you can bleed brakes you can replace hydrolic clutch cylinders. The bolts for the master cylinder are hard to reach, and are WAY back under the dash. But patience, long fingers, and a good tool set usually can get them off. I have had to cut the old master cylinder off once when the bolts had rusted. It is _not_ recommended to rebuild either cylinder, and if one is old, usually the other is too. There is no point getting stuck somewhere with a faulty cylinder just to save a small amount of money. It is very unlikely that the clutch itself is somehow "frozen". If it is, you will need to pull the engine and remedy the problem, but again, it is very unlikely. If you have a bad apex seal, there is not much point in fixing the clutch. Rebuild or replace the engine first, then deal with the clutch.

Felix Wankel.

left side kick panel

there are 2 leading. and they are the 2 bottom ones.

The body kit is $11,000. the engine is most likely a 13b-rew engine with a lot of extras.

the car is a Mazda RX7 from the years 1993-1995. Go from there

you will need a clean piece off hose to fit over bleeder screw on slave cylinder.stick other end of hose in a clean jar of brake fluid.fill resivoir.open bleeder screw and have some pump clutch pedel as you keep filling resivoir.do this untill no more bubbles come out hose in jar.if this does not work may have bad clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder.most likely slave cylinder is bad very rarely does master cylinder go bad.to ckeck slave cylinder just pull back rubber boot if you see fluid come out it is bad.

measure voltage before it goes to the pump, either at the fuse of just before the pump. if voltage is for example 12v at the fuse then 8v after the pump then yes you need a new pump. if voltage is 8v at the fuse or before the pump then its not the pump and you have some other electrical issue.

not sure if they have a relay on your model dude, on a third gen you have (in order of electrical flow) the follwoing electrical components

Battery,

Ignition Switch,

Fuel Pump relay,

Speed Relay,

Fuel Pump Resistor,

Fuel Pump Fuse,

Ground located in boot (near pump) measure the voltage at each of these locations and you should be able to see where the fault is.

if you don't know this, you shouldn't drive an rx7...look at the engine...do you see a turbo???

Do you mean you have no spark?? if so, start with looking at the coil packs usually these are the main reason for no spark, if your coil packs are good then work your way backwards with the electrical system. posible ecu fault

$3000.00 for realy good condition............

RX-7 4V is 4.2 - 4.4 quarts

RX-7 FI is 4.4 - 4.7 quarts

for 1981-1990 rx7, it is recommended to run:

above 15*F (-9*C) - 20w40, 20w50

above -15*F (-26*C) - 10w40, 10w50

-15*F to 85*F (-26*C to 29*C) - 10w30

Below 32*F (0*C) - 5w30

below 0*F (-18*C) - 5W20

for 1991

above -15*F (-25*C) - 10w30

Below 32*F (0*C) - 5w30

vielside rx7 goes about 538mph thats how fast it goes because vielside uses 1234 horse power v8 engine doubled with n20 to make it more faster.

Felix Wankel

yes - its on the inside of the plastic cover.

i would assume as you asking this question that you don't have the cover??

in that case your best bet is to ring Mazda and give them the serial number of your car and order a new cover- howver they will probably make you buy the whole fuse box and knowing Mazda you are probably looking at over £50 (that's 100+ dollars to the people on the other side of the pond)

failing that Google search and you may get lucky but who knows whether the way the fuses were arranged were the same for each model year???

if you could find another person with a 91 RX7 with the same model name and similar optional extras then you can be pretty sure the fuses will be in the same order.

cheers.

There isn't one that is "faster" and it depends on you're definition. Engine speed and the car's speed both can be defined as how "fast" it is. I'll try to answer for both cases.

If you mean engine speed (rpm), then yes and no. They typically are able to turn over at a much faster rate than piston engines because the inertia is evenly distributed into a circular pattern in the triangular rotors. In a piston engine the center of rotation is not the center of gravity (those points are one and the same in a rotary) and therefore centripetal force is unevenly applied to the cars internals. This makes high engine speed very tedious and expensive work (ie Honda s2000, BMW m3, Lexus lfa, etc) or failure will occur. Rotary engines on the other hand can be made to operate at high engine speeds without much extra in terms of cost. They do have limitations however. Heat distribution and complexity for basic repairs are two big ones. You can find more with a quick google search.

If you meant overall speed of the car, there is no way to tell. The size of the engine, size of the car, aerodynamics, etc would dictate things as well as the simple difference in engine type. Rotaries do produce a higher amount of power per liter in almost all cases over piston driven engines, however.

Hope that helps!