Mitsubishi Eclipse

no

The easiest way is to drop it from the bottom. Put the car on a lift, remove the drivers side front wheel, brakes and rotor. You may have to unbolt the a arm to remove the half shaft on the drivers side, I can't remember. After you pull out the drivers side half shaft there are only two transmission mounts and the bolts holding it to the engine. I recommend draining the fluids first. The transmission alone is not that heavy but you may want help taking it out.

This question has no definite answer. Twin turbos add a lot of horse power to a car, however how much is determined on what kind of car and what kind of modifications have already been made.Ê

1-2-3-4

is located in the intake is a two wire sensor is really hard to miss is located in the intake is a two wire sensor is really hard to miss ________________________________________________

The IAT is built into the MAF sensor right after the filter box.

Source:

http://dutch.northwestmr2.com/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/Repair%20Information/New%20Car%20Features/03%20-%20Engine%20and%20Engine%20Control/12.pdf

Your vehicle's MAF sensor has to be a part of the intake system. If it isn't in place, your car's computer can't determine the proper amount of fuel to deliver to the motor, making it either run bad or not at all. If it is in place with the intake, then your car just doesn't like it. You could try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 2-3 minutes to reset the computer so it can learn everything from scratch. This tends to work well.

My boyfriend is having the exact same problem with a 97 eclipse dohc. They have checked the cam sensor, MAP sensor, Crankshaft sensor....finally he got it back and yesterday found a wire running to the ASD relay that seems to be the culprit. I've been looking over wiring diagrams today, and it appears that this wire comes from the fuel pump sensor to the MFI or ASD relay. Every figure out how to fix yours?

I have 152000 miles on mine and it's still going strong.

Tender loving care

Yes

Parts/supplies required:

New slave cylinder (includes boot, pushrod and 90 degree fitting)

Brake fluid (consult owners maual for type, dot 3 or 4 is OK)

1 can spray brake cleaner

Rags

Drain pan

Hand cleaner

Tools needed:

13 mm socket

6" extention

3/8" drive rachet

10 mm box wrench

13 mm line wrench

1. Start by raising the vehicle a little bit to gain access.

2. Open the hood and locate the clutch master cylinder. Remove the cap and top off the fluid with new unused brake fluid. Replace the cap. (This will minimize the amount of fluid leakage later.)

3. By acces from under the front of the vehicle, locate the slave cylinder just right of center near the front of the transmission. Place drain pan under the cylinder. Spray all around the cylinder with the brake cleaner to remove all dirt, grease, and grime.

4. Loosen the banjo bolt holding the line to the cylinder and fluid will run out. When it stops, remove the bolt, fitting, and both crush washers.

5. Remove both mounting bolts using the ratchet and socket. Slave cylinder, boot, and pushrod should all come out as a unit.

6. Again, spray all of the area with the brake cleaner.

7. Do not remove the fitting from the metal line, it will be reused.

8. Open your new cylinder package and assemble the boot to the push rod. The recess in the rod will insert into the boot so the shorter end is extended from the boot and the longer end is inside the boot. Slide the boot over the end of the cylinder so as to seat the boot into the groove. The rod should be firmly seated ino the piston.

9. Place the assembly into position as the old one was. Be sure to make sure the pushrod is seated firmly into the clutch fork.

10. Locate the two crush washers and new banjo bolt. Place one washer onto the bolt, insert the bolt into the old fitting, slide on the other washer onto the bolt.

11. Thread the banjo bolt into the cylinder but do not tighten.

12. Reattach the cylinder with the two bolts removed earlier. Tighten snugly, but do not over tighten.

13. Tighten the banjo bolt.

14. Loosen the bleeder screw about a quarter turn.

15. Back up top, remove the master cylinder cap. The fluid level should start to slowly drop. Do not let the fluid fall below the fill mark.

16. Close the bleeder screw when fluid starts to run out.

17. Now locate a helper. They just need to be able to reach the clutch pedal.

18. Have your helper push the pedal few times and hold it.

19. Open the bleeder screw a fraction to allow fluid to escape. You may experience some bubbling or a popping stream. This is normal. Once the padal reaches the floor, have your helper hold it until you close the bleeder.

20. Once closed, top off the master and repeatstep 19 untilno air is released from the bleeder screw. Good Luck!

A Spyder GS is a non turbo car. A GS-T on the other hand is a turbo car. Hope this helps

210

Sounds like a short.

Yes, although the cost may be prohibitive - the transmissions are on opposite sides for the two engines, so additional parts and labor would be required. Cheaper alternatives for the pursuit of power would be either turbocharging the 420A or simply buying a used GS-T or GSX, although the price of a used GS-T/GSX hovers around the cost of the turbo kit (before labor).

Nothing happens, except your wallet will be lighter.

Fill master cylinder. Put car on jack stands. Put a length of hose over the bleeder valve and place the loose end into a pan filled with brake fluid. (End must be submerged.) Have someone push clutch pedal and hold it. Open bleeder valve. Close it when the fluid stops flowing. Release pedal after valve is closed. Repeat until no more bubbles come out in the pan. Watch the master cylinder... if it gets too low, it will suck air back in.

Ecu rvr rs

"Total inclusive of GST" refers to the final amount that includes the Goods and Services Tax (GST) within the overall price. This means that the stated total already accounts for the applicable GST, so no additional tax will be added to that amount. It provides clarity to consumers by indicating the complete cost they need to pay, simplifying the purchasing process.

The best thing to do is:

1.) Fold the rubber boot back from behind the headlight/bulb. (You will have to get your finger nails under it to pull it back)

2.) Feel inside near the bulb for a wire "spring", push it dowm and then pull to remove from the headlight body (when looking down on the lamp it is held in place on the left, at least for the left headlight when looking at the front of the car)

3.) pull the whole lamp assmebly out of the headlight through the back.

4.) Unbolt the whole headlight from the frame of the car.

5.) Carefully remove the headlight.

6.) Now you will have enough room to work.... pull the plastic connector off of the three pronged bulb

7.) Insert the new bulb assembly into the headlight (BEFORE REATTACHING THE HEADLIGTH TO THE CAR) and reengage the retention spring. 8.) Put the headlight back onto the car and bolt in place BEFORE REATTACHING THE PLASTIC CONNECTOR PLUG TO THE BULB. 9). Reattach the plastic connector to the blub and fold the rubber boot back over the headlight/bulb assemble

I JUST finished this replacement. It took Faaarrrr too long because I attempted to do it without removing the whole headlight. There is NO room to work if this is not done and pulling the plastic connector off the back of the bulb was impossible. Once I removed the headlight i had all the room i needed and it came off quick.

I have a 2001 Toyota Corlla Sport and all four of the speakers are 6 1/2" (two in the front doors and two in the rear deck)

I have a 2001 Toyota Corlla Sport and all four of the speakers are 6 1/2" (two in the front doors and two in the rear deck)

6G72

I found a free online manual from Mitsubishi motors corp for the 3rd gen(years 00-05)

[tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/PrefaceForMMSAVol1.pdf ]

hope this helps!

You may also request one for free at FreeAutoMechanic.com (repair manuals tab), used this free service many times and works as advertised.

You can use tweezers or pliers. Just be careful not to crush the link while it's still in the port.

im not sure what u mean...but i guess u mean is it better to run intercooler with your turbo setup on a particular engine...yes the intercooler will aid in cooling drastically over a non intercooled engine...think of it as a/c or non a/c in your house u want the cold cold air if possible