Nissan Maxima

socket wrench, vice grips, screw driver. It's easy like a puzzle piece if the rotor is not scarred. The pads clip into place but if you waited too long you'll have to replace the rotor. You can get all the parts and advice from Auto Zone. I've done mine on my 97 Maxima twice.

Death!

There are several methods (each resulting in temporarily "disabling" the Diagnostic Trouble Code, known as DTC). Usually, you can disconnect the battery NEG terminal for several minutes (to be sure). You might succeed in resetting the computer by cycling the ignition switch (on, off, on, off, on, off), each time waiting for 3-5 seconds in each position. There are a variety of methods (depending on make, model, year) which may, or may not, be successful. What many "mechanics" do not know is what series of electronic events take place when they connect a diagnostic tool to any given vehicle. When said mechanic chooses to "erase" (using a scan tool) the DTC from memory, they are only turning the light off, and not fixing the problem. Once a DTC has been set, that code remains until said problem is remedied. Oftentimes, a "Service Engine Soon" lamp will illuminate when a vehicle is in need of routine maintenance, a "hiccup" due to bad gas, a leaking vac. line, etc. "Check Engine" lamps require more serious attention. There are many varied techniques for PROPERLY resetting the PCM/ECM parameters (back to factory specs). Many require a series of start/stop driving conditions, such as: accelerating from 0-60 and maintaining speed for 5 miles, decreasing speed to 40MPH... and maintaining said speed for 2 miles, stopping car to idle for 1 min, Etc. You might try a "quick flash" by disconnecting both cables from the battery. Then, clamp both NEG and POS cables together...making sure that you do not allow this connection to make contact with the battery ( or any other positive power source). Allow this connection to rest for about 10 minutes. Keep in mind that computers are very sensitive, and are subject to damage... by even the slightest of power surges...or inadvertent contact with a power source. Automobile computers ground POSITIVE, not NEGATIVE. So, what you are doing when you connect the two cables together is drawing down any unwanted energy which might be stored in the computer/ICM/ECM/PCM... Reconnect the cables to the battery (after 10 min.). Then, to be certain that the previous codes are not "ghosting", drive the car for a minimum of 20 miles (preferably 60). If the codes were properly (and permanently) removed, the DTC lamp will not light again. Good luck.

P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire

Symptoms.
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues

Cause
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM

The Fix
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.

There are 2 knock sensors on these motors. They are located in the valley cover under the intake manifold.

Have your motor mount checked.

Trouble code P1320 means: Ignition Signal - Primary

Caution: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before putting you hands into a vehicles engine compartment. Caution: When the engine is hot be very careful not to touch hot engine parts. If your not sure what your doing get help from a pro.

I am not sure what you mean by the A/C running hot? However

First when the engine is cold check the radiator and make sure it is topped off with coolant.This could be caused from a number of reasons and it is helpful to give more information about the car like make model and year. Let me explain there are at least two ways of cooling the radiator. Some cars have an electric fan that is controlled by a thermostatic switch normally located near the bottom of the rad when the car gets to a certain temp the fan will come on and cool the radiator and when cool shut off. Other cars have a fan driven by a belt from the engine in the center of this fan there is a thermostatically controlled clutch which detects the air being drawn thru the rad when the air is to hot the clutch will cause the fan to turn more drawing more cool air thru the rad. When the air coming thru the rad is cool enough the clutch will allow the fan to slip or free wheel. If either type of thermostatically controlled switch goes bad the car will overheat at idle. The car cools down while driving because the cool air is forced thru the rad. Please do not confuse this thermostatic switch with the heater/engines thermostat.

I personally would check or take the car to someone qualified to check for a bad electrically controlled thermostatic type of switch on cars with electric cooling fans. On cars that are driven by a belt I would check the fan belt for slippage and the fan clutch it self when engine is cold for oil leakage or when rocked for excessive bearing play and spin the fan by hand to make sure it turns freely then start the engine and allow it to run until the heater is putting out hot air next turn the engine off and spin the fan again the fan should be harder to turn as if there is a drag on it if not I would replace the fan clutch. Electrically operated fans: Parts to check fuses, electric fan motor or thermostatic switch, or an electrical problem.

Fan Belt Driven fans: bad broken or slipping belts, thermostatically controlled fan clutch, and cracked or broken fan blades. Check both type systems for a blockage in the radiator core such as bugs dirt leaves. Last but not least if the core if self is clogged internally you might need to flush the system and or have the system pressure checked including the cap. , EzForJesus

PS Many people on accident put the heater/engine thermostat in backwards this will cause many problems This thermostat is like a one way valve and must be installed in the correct direction.

Caution: Never put your hands in or near these fans while the battery cable is connected.

On some cars you may have two radiators and two electric fans one is to cool the engine the other is to cool the a/c it is possible that the fan motor or thermostatic fan switch that cools the engine or a/c has gone out. Best way to check these fans is when your car is overheating is to stop somewhere and look under the hood to see if both are working/turning. Also if any fan blades are damaged or missing they need to be replaced. , EzForJesus

I have a Maxima 1998, I did change every thing i.e. radiator ( by agent) thermostate, coolent ... you name it. And still the car overheats and AC cuts off when temp. goes up. Lots of my frined experinced that same problem ( and if you check the web you find it is a common problem). It must be a design problem with the radiator as it might be not having enough cooloing capcity.

Bulbs Multifunction switch - The headlight switch on these go bad they run about $100 but are not to bad to replace. I would think that that is the most likely problem.

Fuse usually in the power distribution block under hood

if you mean to replace the "top" stop light. the one in the rear windshield, all you do is pull the brake light housing towards the seats, away from the window, it will pop out of place(careful not to pull out the wires) then just replace the bulb and pop it back into place over the meatl guides

If you mean the one on the actual wing outside of the car and not on the inside, I also need that information.

enzyme

finely chopped is another way of sayying cut into thin peices

There is a retaining ring at the front of the receptacle stem, which locks the light into place. This has to be rotated counter-clockwise to loosen the fixture first. Once the ring is loose, the assembly will fall out easily.

There is a retaining hook built into the light and a latch on top of the receptacle you must loosen to free it. When you pull up on the this latch far enough, you will be able to pull the light out and replace it.

Place everything back in the right order and you're done!

There is a cover to remove with 5 Allen screws on the top front of the motor, after you take off the plate you will see 3 black boxes with a 10mm bolt in them, remove the bolt and pull up the black box. Down that hole is the plug. You will need an extension on your socket to get them out. Be extremely careful when you replace the plug. They are easy to cross thread as you can not install with your fingers. A rubber hose over the end of the plug and drop it down to get it started is best.

There are no plug wires from a distributor like the old cars used to have. As for the rear ones....Good luck with that. No cover to remove but they are hard to find, see and access for replacement. They were not thinking about us when they built this car!

No, excessive power from the alternator, poor wiring and stuff like that will. What happens is too much electricity is pushed through it and burns it up. A spark plug is where the energy is released. Its like a train, your battery is the train engine and the spark plug is the caboose... your looking at the front of the train for problems not the back. ;)

I am trying to change the Belt that goes around the power steering pump on my 2003 maxima and don't know how to release the tention from the belt. This is the inner belt I'm speaking of..Thanks for any assistance/direction

It is not like most cars that I have had where you simply pull off a hose and pull out the valve. It is inside a housing that you remove two bolts and take off the cover which has a heavy duty spring under it so take it off slowly. Then remove the spring and I used some needle-nose pliers to grab the nipple of the valve and it pulled right out. I then replaced it with a new valve and put it back together the same way I took it off.

For a detailed desrciption of how to replace with pics check out:

http://macgp.clubgp.com/howto/engine/pcv/gt/pcv.html

G

I left my lights on all night one night and my battery died. I took it off the next day and charged at autozone and reinstalled it that next day. My car started fine but now my clock and radio don't work . I replaced all the fuses under my steering wheel and still no clock or radio. i checked under my hood and changed some more mini fuses in the little fuse box thats located in front of my steering wheel . Are there anymore fuses that have to do with my radio not working. My car is a Nissan Maxima 1995

NO!! he is coarse

The 2001 Nissan Maxima has front wheel drive.

To replace the water pump, you need to remove the radiator, belts and alternator.

Jack the car up slightly (a board on the oil pan and a floor jack) to take tension off the engine mounting bolts. Remove the passenger side engine mount.

Then remove the water pump.

Install in reverse order.THE 2.4L AND 2.5L ENGINES.YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE VECHICLE SUPPORT IT USING JACK STANDS.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE RIGHT HAND SPLASH SHIELD.THEN LOOSEN WATER PUMP PULLEY BOLTS LEAVE DRIVE BELT IN PLACE TO KEEP WATER PULLEY FROM TURNING WHILE LOOSEN PULLEY BOLTS.THEN YOU HAVE TO MOVE AC COMPRESSOR DONT DISCONNECT ANY REFRIGERANT LINES.JUST SET IT ASIDE THE ALTERNATOR AND ITS MOUNT ALSO HAS TO MOVED.THEN YOU ARE AT WATER PUMP.NOW THE 3.5L ENGINE WATER PUMP IS IN A TOUGH SPOT.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD.REMOVE THE SUBFRAME BRACKET FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY. REMOVE THE INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.REMOVE THE IPDMER UPPER COVER AND HARNESS COVER RELEASE THE TWO CLIPS.DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AND LIFT THE ASSEMBLY FROM THE CASE.REMOVE THE RADIATOR SHROUDS REMOVE THE DRIVE BELTS.REMOVE THE ENGINE COOLING FAN.REMOVE THE RADIATOR AND THE COOLANT RESERVOIR.REMOVE THE IDLER PULLEY AND THE POWER STEERING AND ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS.REMOVE THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNT.REMOVE COOLANT DRAIN PLUG FROM THE WATER PUMP SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK.REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER COVER AND THE WATER PUMP COVER FROM THE ENGINE FRONT COVER.REMOVE THE CHAIN TENSIONER.PULL THE LEVER DOWN TO RELEASE THE PLUNGER STOPPER TAB.INSERT A STOPPER PIN INTO THE TENSIONER BODY HOLE TO RETAIN THE LEVER IN THE RELEASED.NO CHAIN TENSION POSITION.MOVE THE PLUNGER INTO THE TENSIONER BY PRESSING THE CHAIN GUIDE AND PUSHING WITH A SCREWDRIVER.MAKE A GAP BETWEEN THE WATER PUMP GEAR AND THE TIMING CHAIN BY ROTATING THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY 20 DEGREES COUNTERCLOCKWISE.REMOVE THE THREE WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS.INSTALL 2 BOLTS SIZE M8 1.25 X 50 MM INTO THE WATER PUMP BOLT HOLES AND TIGHTEN THEM EQUALLY UNTIL THEY BOTTOM AGAINST THE CHAIN COVER.IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO ROTATE THE WATER PUMP SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW THE BOLTS TO DRIVE AGAINST THE REAR TIMING CHAIN CASE COVER INSTEAD OF THE BOLT HOLES.REMOVE THE WATER PUMP.CLEAN THE SEALANT FROM THE MATING SURFACE AND REPLACE THE O-RINGS.INSTALL THE OUTER O-RING WITH THE WHITE PAINT MARK FACING THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE AND THE INNER O-RING BLACK NEXT.APPLY A LIGHT AMOUNT OF OIL TO THE O-RINGS.TIGHTEN THE WATER PUMP BOLTS TO 62 - 89 INCH POUNDS.TIGHTEN WATER PUMP BOLTS EVENLY DONT OVER TIGHT OR YOU WILL DAMAGE WATER PUMP AND HAVE LEAKS.REINSTALL THE POWER STEERING AND ALTERNATOR ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS AND ANY OTHER COMPONENTS REMOVED FOR ACCESS TO THE WATER PUMP.REFILL THE COOLING SYSTEM.RUN THE ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS.YOU NEED TO BUY THE HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.SO THE PHOTOS WILL HELP YOU WHEN REMOVING AND INSTALLING WATER PUMP.

Shade tree mechanics use a C-clamp and a flat steel bar to compress the piston. I have also used a large adjustable Channel-Lok-type pliers to compress.

If you are talking about the light above the turn signal light for the headlight assembly, then: instructions in owner's manual

1) pop the hood

2) the clearance light is the top of the two light bulb assemblies furthest to the side

3) turn the assembly counter clockwise and the assembly will dislodge and come out

4) replace the bulb, I take care not touching the bulb with bare fingers

5) replace the assembly, there are tabs on the assembly that mate with notches in the headlight assembly, and tighten back in with clockwise turn

small space, make sure you have a flashlight, takes about 5 minutes or less

First you have to locate ECM which is on the driver side just below the steering wheel and just right of gas pedal. You will be able to see ECM after removing a plastic cover. After that you will see a nut in that ECM, which needs to be turned clockwise and then anticlockwise. This is to be repeated three to four times with a span of 15-20 seconds. Next time you will start your car the annoying "Check Engine Light" should go away.

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