Nissan Stanza

timing is 15 degrees before on both std and auto.

Remove the negative cable line from the battery and bleed off fuel pressure, next remove the thermostat housing cover, finally the spring of the thermostat should face the engine, so put in a new thermostat and seal with liquid gasket maker.

The thermostat housing is located below the alternator and directly across from the lower right side of the radiator(not the lower radiator hose side).

The plug should be on the side of the transmission facing the front of the car. It will be just like an oil plug only you will need a suction gun to get the fluid in the hole make sure the fluid is at the right level before driving fill it till it starts coming out the hole then let it settle for 15 20 minutes top off and then check the dip stick. Please be aware that 'transmission fluid' in a manual transmission is actually called 'gear oil', and is a different substance with a different purpose. Transmission fluid in an automatic transmission *is* a lubricant, but also serves a hydraulic role, which means that it is pressurized and used to move various parts in the transmission. The gear oil found in manual transmissions is simply a lubricant intended to extend the life of the moving parts inside a manual transmission. Please, NEVER, NEVER use manual gear oil in an automatic transmission. Automatic Transmission fluid will have words like 'Dexron', 'Mercon', or 'Type F', and is usually a pinkish red color, while Manual Transmission oil will be called 'gear oil' or '90 weight' (maybe not '90' but something thick like that) and be a dark color. If you have a rear- or all-wheel drive vehicle, please note that your differential(s) (the part that transfers driveshaft power to the axle) will have gear oil in it/them, too. The final difference is the duty cycle: automatic transmission fluid should usually be changed more often than gear oil.

ATF has a GL-4 rating and as such is actually suitable for quite a number of manual transmissions, especially in Japanese cars. It is the specified oil for some. Using an oil that is too 'heavy' or 'thick' for the transmission or the temperature will not improve the reliability of the transmission. Instead it will cause damage by preventing the synchromesh from working. Baulky synchromesh, especially when cold, will often be cured by draining 50% of the gear oil and replacing with ATF. ATF has a viscosity similar to an 80W or 75W-90 gear oil and can be used in any manual transmission where a GL-4 oil of this viscosity is approved. But it is NOT a hypoid oil (GL-5), so can't be used in hypoid manual transmissions such as Subaru. Bottom line: check your vehicle owners manual for lubricant specifications and servicing schedule. I'll post the specs for a 1990-1992 Nissan Stanza here shortly...

Yes. My 91 Stanza was running poorly, poor gas milage, the speedometer works sometimes, when i hit a bump it will do the opposite - if it was working and i hit a bump it will stop working until i hit another bump. I resolder each solder at the back of it and problem solved. Better gas milage.

The 1988 nissan stanza has teo pumps one in the tank and one in the engine compartment on the passenger side.

Not sure if your problem is my problem but here goes, The mass air sensor on my car that reads the air intake must have a loose wire (behind electrical tape), when pushing on it i can get the var to run really rough if in the wrong position (disconnected?) If i play around with it, I can get it to run normal, but if in the wrong position it vibrates, runs at about 400 rpm and is really weak, (sounds like its running on less cylinders) to boot, hope this helps you in your problem.

I had this on my 2000. Check the spark plug wires. I installed new ones and it ran like new.

To bleed a clutch on a Nissan Stanza, you need to find the bleed-off valve, usually somewhere near the slave cylinder.

This answer should be valid for 1990-1992 stanza. The washer bottle is behind the bumper, just in front of the wheel well on the passenger side and is very awkward to get at. You will have to first remover the top part of the bottle by going under the hood and pulling the refilling tube straight up. You will then have to locate and remove the screws holding the front of the front weel cover, and the passenger side of the plastic bumper cover. Once you remove enough screws, you should be able to pull the bumper wheel well covers back to get at the three screws which holds the rest of the bottle in place, as well as unclip the wire harness to the pump motor and the low fluid sensor. Once you have removed the bottle from under the car, you can pull the pump out. Optional: You can try to remove the pump without removing the bottle by unclipping the wire harness and attempting to remove the pump. -Sam

Nissan Motor Company Ltd usually shortened to Nissan is a Japanese multinational automobile manufacturer headquartered in Nishi-ku, Yokohama.

It cost $1.34 per gallon.

Jack up the right front, remove the tire, remove flexable rubber shield. Remove belts (alternator, etc) Remove the pulley nut. Take off timing chain cover. remove pulleys, remove harmoni balancer with wheel puller. Losen tensoner with hex wrench. Lossen top lock and loosen bootem enough to move. Open up and tighten in place. Make sure piston is tdc. Remove number one spark plug. Line up makes. Crank mark at 4 oclock. Cam pulley straight up. remove belt replace new with arror ou. top line on cam pulley mark. bottom line on the 4 oclock mark. and replace everything making sure the rotor is facing the number plug tower.

Remove your starter, have the Solenoid checked out. Also check out your battery, common noise when you either A) Don't have enough battery charge or B) Starter solenoid is over-drawing amperage

if you are asking here the computer is at, it is located right on the floor board behind the radio, or maybe you can get in from the driver side or pass. side

yoy need someone to pump the peddel like you are bleeding brakes. there should be a bleeder screw on the slave. loosen it and let the fluid come out, then retighnt it. repeat un till all air is out. make shure uoy keep the resovior full at all times.

For a 1992 Nissan Stanza, the tachometer should typically read around 600 to 800 RPM when the engine is idling. This range can vary slightly depending on factors such as engine condition and ambient temperature. If the idle RPM is significantly higher or lower than this range, it may indicate an issue that needs to be addressed.

To check the starter connections on a 1988 Nissan Stanza, first, ensure the vehicle is in park or neutral and the ignition is off. Remove the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical shorts. Then, locate the starter, which is typically mounted on the engine near the transmission. Inspect the wiring for any loose, corroded, or damaged connections and ensure the positive and ground wires are securely attached to the starter terminals. Reconnect the battery cable after your inspection.

An automatic transmission typically has between four to ten gear positions, depending on the design and purpose of the vehicle. Common configurations include three to five gears for older models, while modern vehicles often feature six to ten gears to enhance fuel efficiency and performance. Additionally, some automatic transmissions include overdrive and manual modes, which can also influence the total number of effective gear positions.

A breakdown of the 12-valve 2.4L engine in a 1992 Nissan Stanza can stem from various issues, including timing belt failure, overheating, or oil leaks. Common symptoms might include rough idling, decreased power, or unusual noises. Additionally, problems with the fuel injectors or ignition system could affect engine performance. Regular maintenance and timely repairs are crucial to prevent severe damage to the engine.