Oldsmobile Regency

A 1990 Olds Regency's gas tank will hold 18 gallons of gas.

that would be 5.7 Liter

It's under the power steering pump . Power steering pump is behind the alternator.

needs a new ecu go to alldata recalls on your car had the same problem

it is a littal canister in the back left on top of youer motter

You have a loose connection someplace. Banging on the dash is a temporary solve ... and will never fix the problem. One needs to take the instrument cluster out and look for loose wire connections or plugs.

The firing order for a 1992 Oldsmobile Regency Elite 98 is 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2. In this car the distributor rotates clockwise.

May be a plug located at the bottom or rear of radiator

Lean over the front bumper and look at the rad, go to the right side if the rad and look at the bottom corner area, the drain should be located there. That's where it is on my 93.

get the time or date on the screen and hit reset - then fill in correct date and time.

This installation was based on a 1995 Oldsmobile 98' Regency Elite. Was is normally a TEN minute job, but with this particular model, it takes a bit more time and tools. Lets begin by discussing removal of the old belt....... Remove tension from the pulley......Do this by going counter-clockwise with a socketwench on the pulley bolt. Slide belt off alternator, power steering, and water-pump. On the lower right portion of the Engine Mount.......There is an 18mm bolt that must be removed, then a stud ( 10mm Torx socket is nessasary ). Remove collar.........This should allow a gap for the belt to be completely removed. !!!!! Very important !!!! Be sure you are using the correct belt for the car. Some parts dealers will carry various different belt sizes (example.... 882K6-945K6) We used a 905K6 for our 95' Olds 98 Regency Elite......This was very important considering local parts dealers called for a 945K6 belt to do the job! Wrong!!! After you have the correct belt .......the belt should hit these points. Alternator to compressor to crankshaft to water pump to power-steering pulley to tensioner back to alternator. Usually best to start feeding the pulley from the compressor and crankshaft. Once you have the belt in the proper sequence, it seems best to loosen the tensioner simutaneously as you slide the belt around the alternator pulley. Make sure you check to be sure there is no binding or rubbing. Also check the deflection of the belt for anything over 1-1/4 of an inch or more. This may lead to premature wearing of the belt. Start the engine and see how it performs.....Turn the car off and reinstall the Collar, Stud, and Bolt. Hope this helps to you or anyone get back on the road!!

check water in plastic water box right side of engine compartment. that's where sensor is

Probably going to have to take the inside cover off the door (which will be difficult with the door closed) to get to the locking mechanism. The controls for the seat and the lock / unlock button cover comes out with a screwdriver - see if you can get that out and go from there. Under that cover you will see a rod that leads to the lock mechanism that you can manually unlock the doors with. Good luck!

Brake pads consist of friction material that is bonded to a sturdy steel backing plate. When you push on the brake pedal, the friction material on the brake pads is forced against the inner and outer surfaces of the steel brake rotor under tremendous pressure. The resulting friction causes the wheels on your car to slow rapidly allowing for a quick, safe, and controlled stop. After thousands of miles, this friction material eventually wears away, and the brake rotor wears away as well, requiring replacement.

Brakes-Service

When to replace brake pads?

Here are several indications that you need new brake pads:

Wear indicator on vehicle dashboard. When the friction material on the brake pads is worn to within 2 mm of the pad backing plate, replacement of the pads is necessary. Most newer cars today have electronics built into the brake pad. When the pad is at a point that it needs to be replaced, a symbol will appear on your vehicle dashboard’s instrument cluster. Consult your owner’s manual to learn what the symbol looks like.

High pitched squeal when braking. When the friction material on the pads is worn close to the backing plate, you may hear a squealing or squeaking noise as you drive regardless of whether you are applying the brakes or not. That squealing or squeaking noise is designed to make you aware that the brake pads are getting low and need to be inspected. If all of the friction material on the brake pad has been worn away, you will hear grinding and scraping noises when you apply the brakes. Pad replacement is mandatory at this point and the vehicle is unsafe to drive until corrected.

Brake pedal pulsation or vehicle vibration. Over time, brake rotors may develop excessive thickness variation (>.001 inches), excessive runout on the wheel hub (> .002 inches), or the brake rotor may warp due to high operating temperatures. If these defects exist, you may notice pulsation in the brake pedal or steering wheel during braking. New pads and rotor resurfacing or replacement will be required if the rotor has any of the above-mentioned deficiencies.

Vehicle pulling or wandering on braking. If your car pulls to the right or left during braking, that could be a sign of a sticking brake caliper, misalignment of the suspension, and sometimes tire defects or uneven tire inflation from side-to-side. The mechanic who inspects your vehicle will determine if new brake pads alone will resolve the issue or if other repairs are needed.

High mileage on existing pads. Regardless of whether any of the above brake system symptoms occur, every 10,000 miles a mechanic should measure the thickness of the remaining friction material on the brake pads and perform a thorough visual inspection of the braking system.

Brake system warning lights and/or maintenance reminder messages. Should your brake system warning light ever illuminates, or a brake system related maintenance reminder message appears in the driver information display, have your vehicle inspected and repaired as soon as possible.

How do mechanics replace brake pads?

Normally, pad replacement requires these steps:

Confirm the thickness of the remaining friction material on the brake pads. If the remaining friction material is less than 2 mm in thickness, pad replacement is warranted.

Visually inspect the brake rotor surface that contacts the pad (for scoring, pitting, grooves, rust) and measure the brake rotor with precision tools for thickness variation, run-out, and warpage.

Inspect the caliper, torque plate, pads, and rotors to determine if the caliper is operating freely (i.e., inspect for stuck calipers).

Install new pads and any additional recommended components (e.g., rotors, if rotors depart from OEM specifications) only with customer approval of course.

Lubricate brake system components, such as caliper sliding pins, and inspect the condition of the brake fluid. Top off brake fluid as required.

Perform a basic 50 point safety inspection of your vehicle.

Is it safe to drive with a brake pad problem?

Driving a vehicle with a known deficiency in the braking system is unsafe and consequently is not recommended. Worn out brake pads can increase stopping distances and so for your safety, it is always advised that worn out brake pads be replaced promptly. Further driving is not recommended and you should request service at your earliest convenience if any of the following circumstances exist: stopping distances are much greater than what you are accustomed to; the brake pedal is not firm or is low; there is the loss of braking power assist; the vehicle pulls severely to one side on braking, or the brake system warning light is on.

If you detect unusual noises, such as squealing or grinding, but stopping distances are close to what you are used to, and the brake pedal is firm, and there are no warning lights, it may be safe to proceed to your destination but schedule service at your earliest convenience.

Oh, dude, the fuse boxes in a 1990 Oldsmobile 98 Regency are like these sneaky little things hiding in plain sight. You can find one under the hood near the battery, just chilling there. The other one is hanging out under the dashboard on the driver's side, like it's playing hide and seek. Just remember, when dealing with fuses, be gentle, they're sensitive little guys.

Yes there was an LX model made in the 1980 model year. My Dad had one blk on blk with a nylon roof, it also sported the cadillac roof line and rear window design.

Most of the above information regarding the 98 Regency LX is correct except that this model was as a limited production model late in the model year for 1979. It was available in tan, black, silver or a dark claret and came completely loaded. I think the only options may have been choice of radio, sunroof and anti-theft system. It did have a nylon, canvas like formal roof with a formal rear window. It also included a thin chrome molding along the upper fender line that ran the length of the car as well as a wide belt revel molding. It was made for one year.

Lots of guys have upgraded to the newer engine , better tranny and bigger front brakes by using 92 and up complete cradle , suspension . If your getting free or already use it. Or you can upgrade by using 97 up .

It is under the dash on the passenger side. There are a few fuses and 8 or 9 relays. I don't know which one. I am still looking. You have to remove the underside cover to gain access to the electrical panel. This is the most stupid thing I have ever seen. The GM engineers outdid themselves with this one. All this to do any form of maintenance or repairs on the fuel system such as replace the fuel filter or work on a fuel injector. Why?

You need to remove the plastic part of the dashboard that covers it. To do that remove the two small bolts at the very bottom (there just to the sides of the ashtray drawer and down a couple inches further), then pull the wooden looking trim (at the top of the panel) loose that runs all the way across the front of the car, it just clips in so pry it loose, just be careful not to break it. The top of the panel just clips in too, but it's not near as tight as the trim, so pull out at the bottom of the panel and it should come right off. Once that's off the stereo is held in by 3 screws. Take those out pull the stereo forward, disconnect the 32 pin connector and the antenna, and it's removed.

I hope you mean $300 not $3,000. $300 would be max. no matter where you live. I don't care how new or what kind of car, it is just not that complicated a job . For $3,000 I'll fly to your house and do it in your driveway.

There is a module located on the firewall that has failed. They cost about $125.00.

disconnect the battery for more than 30 secs,this will reset part of the computer that locks out the control system if it has detected a fault Dave

How do remove and replace the ignition switch of a 1983 Oldsmobile Regency?

try a sledgehammer or screwdiver phlab

You can fit up to a 502 Big Block if you really wanted too. The biggest problem being that this is a 1984 is the emissions part of this. I own a 1984 old 98 regency I think its the elite edition with the leather. Anways it has a 5.0L V8 in it and the room is there just working around the computer aspec it the real issue. If you find a matching motor with computer if that's the way your going your set to go as long as you meet emission laws for your state.

Goodluck,

Nick

College Station,TX