Oldsmobile Silhouette

To change the blower motor resistor in an Oldsmobile Silhouette, first disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. Locate the resistor, usually found near the blower motor under the dashboard on the passenger side. Remove any screws or clips securing it, then unplug the electrical connector and pull the old resistor out. Install the new resistor by reversing these steps, ensuring the connector is securely attached before reassembling everything.

It is possible, POSSIBLE, that your odometer drive motor had broken some teeth on the gears and is jammed, therefore causing the motor to want to keep spinning, but it cannot because the broken gears have jammed it - this could possibly cause the fuse to blow. How many miles are on it?

This vehicle has seating for 7 passenger, you should not put a car in the front seat and I think it would be safer to only utilize the seats that have a shoulder strap to help secure the car seat in the car. That would leave you with 4.

There are two air bleed valves on this model. One is located on the thermostat housing and it is a small brass screw with a screwdriver slot and ridged edges. The second is located on the coolant bypass tube. It is the black metal tube that runs along the valve cover from the water pum to underneath the intake body. It is about the size of a pack of life savers and stands vertically. It has a brass screw at the top and is (I believe) an 8mm. This is not slotted and is an octagon.
If you are having any problem with the heat regulation such as losing water and a problem with a varying temp that climbs and drops or just climbs. There is a known problem with the lower intake manifold valve cover gasket. that can let coolant leak out slowly. There is anew gasket kit that is available that corrects this problem.

Hey Johnny==Either the battery cable needs cleaning or replaced. It may be loose in the end. Also make sure you have a good ground between the engine and the body. Goodluck Joe

Remove serpentine belt

Remove any components obstructing any bolts on water pump

Ensure coolant cach container is in position because your engine coolant will come out

Remove any hoses from pump (if they are stuck on you can stick something under where hose attaches to pump and this will help fee up the seal). You may also have to remove pulley (easier to loosen bolts while serpentine belt is on).

Make sure bolts are re-installed in same position (you can put them in bolt holes of new pump then swap them to old pump before installing new part).

After removing pump (you may need to pry old pump off) clean all old gasket material off engine mating surface (scraper, flat screwdriver, die grinder are all tools that can be used).

Use brake cleaner on both engine and new pump mating surfaces to ensure they are clean, then use black silicone (or equal sealant) on both the engine and new pump (both sides of gasket).

After applying silicone install new pump on engine and place bolts in to hold it in position

Install bolts hand tight

USE PROPER TORQUE SEQUENCE AND SPEC TO TIGHTEN BOLTS- DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS BECAUSE IT CAN DAMAGE GASKET.

Re-install all other parts and properly fill cooling system.

No - they are part of the steering linkage.

Yes, the Manual is correct, there should be 2 cooling fans on the 3.8 and 3.4 engines, but the 3.8 engine has a fan on EACH SIDE of the radiator...one pushing air from the outside and one pulling air from the inside. Each fan has its own thermostat and different engage/disengage points. One fan unit should operate the engine OK for all but the most extreme con- ditions..ie.. A/C on in the summertime..keep watching the engine Heat Gauge if it goes higher than 200 degrees, make sure there is a second fan. Salvage yards should have good used fans available for this engine with mounting brackets..just wire it in parallel with the existing fan, or have a mechanic locate the original wires and make sure the second thermo- stat works correctly.

Look for a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

replace a fuel filter on a 1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette

The 1998 Oldsmobile fuel lines are held in place with swivel nuts on each end of the fuel line. Turn the swivel nuts to the left to remove the old rotted fuel lines. Reverse the process to install the new fuel lines.

My 2000 uses 134A and looks stock...

yes it does its on the drivers inner side frame rail one ten mill nut and 2 quick connects takes bout 5 to ten minutes to do depending on how the quick connects come apart

The metal shavings are coming from something inside of the 1999 Silhouettes engine. A bearing is coming apart most likely, and the engine could fail if the problem is not fixed.

I have a 98 Silhouette, and just got done with new head gaskets, and valve job. Of course pulling both cylinder heads is quite involved, but exposes the thermostat housing. The real question is why do you want to replace the thermostat, if your overheating it's probably not the problem. First I would suggest buying the Haynes Service manual for your car, $20 and worth every penny, I have the $150 GM Service Manual and prefer the Haynes. To get at the thermostat housing try removing the Air Cleaner and intake plumming, then the throttle body, you'll have trouble with the small water hoses going to the TB, you may just want to cut and plug them, I've been told that they arn't needed, but the're sure a pain in the butt. Check the manual, I don't have mine available now, but that's the easiest way,-- you don't want to know the other way. Now back to why are you replacing the thermostat. This car has a history of coolent leaks in the lower intake manifold, and I lost my first head gasket at around 100K Mi. Aluminum heads and cast iron blocks are prown to gasket failures, if your getting bubbles into the coolent recovery tank or water in the oil(looks like dirty mayo on the dip stick) then you probably have a head gasket leak. If you think you've gotten air in the cooling system try bleeding the system. There are two small brass bleed screws, one on the thermostat housing, and one near the water pump on a black coolent manifold. With the engine running and warm take a socket or nut driver and lossen each nut until you get a steady stream of coolent, carefull it's hot. This allows the air to escape and speeds the flow of coolent. If you have to do this repeatedly there is air getting into the system from somewhere, probably from the combustion chamber, and that means a blown head gasket. Changing a head gasket is not really that hard, if you know how to rotate the engine, find the hidden bolt(there's always one), take lots of pictures and mark the cables, although all of the plugs and sockets are different so you can't get them mixed up. If you think this is your problem, repost and we can discuss what needs to be done, give yourself a couple of weeks, and do everything, plugs, wires, O2 Sensor while your at it. See ya 94

First raise the hood. You will see two separate plastic light housings, one containing the headlamp, and the other the parking light and turn signal bulb. There is a plastic thumb screw on the turn signal housing that you must totally unscrew. Remove it and put is someplace safe while you continue. Gently pull the turn signaly assembly straight out towards the front. You may have to tug on it a bit, but remember these things are plastic and expensive, so be careful. There are two plastic tongues on the assembly you are trying to remove that fit into a couple of slots back behind, and if you're lucky they will slide out. If they don't slide out like they are supposed to then put it back together and take it to the dealer. If the assembly does pop out correctly, just twist the bulb socket out, turn the bulb and insert the new replacement.

Too broad of a question. What are they doing or not doing? Electrical? Mechanical? Re-submit with more detail.

I bought a trailer hitch for mine and it came with a wiring harness that plugs into an existing plug inside the driver side rear hatch panel area. It didn't work and would not override the third brakelight like it was supposed to. So I just bought some electrical connectors and wired direct into the existing wiring after removing the rear tail lights. Make sure you have enough wiring to reach the center of your hitch and some slack. Throw away the harness that comes with the hitch, it will be too much of a pain and probably won't work anyway.

You really don't want to try to replace the thermostat. It's a bear to get at and it's almost certently not the problem. When you change the coolant, air is left in the cooling system and has a tendency to collect in areas where it is trapped and restricts flow. To correct this there are two small brass bleed screws provided to "burp" the system. One screw is on the thermostat housing which is connected to the upper radiator hose, the other screw is on a black riser near the water pump. To bleed the air (burp) the cooling system warm the engine to pressurize the cooling system. Use a nut driver or socket on a long extension to open the bleed screws a turn or two, use care to stay back from the hot coolant. Again you do not have to remove the screws, they have a small hole which is opened when the screw is loosened a turn or two (similar to brake bleed screws). Wait until you get a steady flow of collent which shows that all of the air has been removed from the cooling system. This should do it, if it needs to be done more than a time or two, you are probably getting air into the system from another source, possibly (as in my case) from a blown head gasket allowing combustion gases into the water jacket. If this is the case repost and we can talk about it. Head gaskets arn't impossible to do for the reasonably hand shade tree mechanic, or just fork over $2000 to the dealer and be done with it. See ya 94

Those seeking to purchase Silhouette glasses have a couple of legitimate options. The first is direct from the company itself. The second is through a site like Best Buy Eyeglasses or Frames Direct that deals in various styles and brands.

Yes. 403 is a small block with identical exhaust ports as a 350 and 330.

Where is the theft deterrent module on 1995 Buick Regal

Anti-theft module, 1985 Corvette. Under dash on passenger side next to the heater control valve.