Peugeot 106

in sequence torque bolts to 20nm, then again in sequence turn a futher 120 degrees, and again in sequence 120 degrees.

I think it's fuse 17, but am not 100 per cent.

Low coolant?

Cooling fan not working?

Radiator plugged or dirty and needs to be boiled or flushed?

Defective radiator cap?

Behind the front grille is an electric fan motor. It is supposed to come on when you turn on the AC to keep the radiator cooler. If it's not coming on, and the car is sitting, the longer you sit, the hotter it gets. Once the car starts moving again, it starts to cool down. You could have a bad motor or a bad motor relay. I swapped 2 relays and it did the same thing. Got another motor from a junk yard, good as new.

This is a very common fault on these cars (i've had 5). Two of the most common causes of which are

1. A dirty idle control valve - Find, remove, clean and reinsert it.

2. broken Lambda sensor - replace original

behind the glove-box, check the car manual for which one it is, or look for a 15 / 20 amp blown one

you can easily locate it on top of the Gearbox Housing...

simply buy your wing mirror on line that matches the intended vehicle. Drive your vehicle to your sons girlfirends grandfathers house where he will get his tool kit out and change it for you, Tada!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! New Wing Mirror

Hey, Im pretty sure it's 5 inch for the front. Rodney :)

your coil is most likely gone

if this happens just after filling up the car then I had this problem. The fuel pipe has cracked on top of the fuel tank, check this by lifting the rear seat and removing the round black rubber covers, bout 5-6 inches big. under one of the two will be the fuel pump/sender depending on if carb'd or injected engine. One pipe coming from the top goes to the engine and the other is the return. My return one had cracked just as it came out of the pump and so when i filled my tank the fuel in the fuel filler leaked out of the crack until it was then below the level of it. Not only a nice risk of fire but basically throwing 1-2litres of fuel straight from pump thru car onto the ground at your expense. if this is what is wrong then, just go down to the scrapyard/parts shop and get one cheap enough off an old one for about £15, remove the two fuel pipes, unscrew the unit, screw in the replacement one and attach the two pipes again. this should sort out your problems. hope this helps and if anyone else has ideas then it could be something completely different.

Most likely to be a faulty coolant temprature sensor It will be sending the wrong data to the ECU making the ECU think that the engine is cold And increasing the mixture strength Possibly causing the engine to flood

32 lbs fot mk 1 diesel PS it is on the side of the drivers door near the lock catch

open the boot and lift the carpet. there will be a big bolt u simply unscrew it with the wheel nut tool u get with the car or anything that fits. once u have wound it out enough u push the spare wheel up and unhook it.

because the head gasket has gone

sounds like you have put the code in wrong too many times, disconnect then reconnect the battery, make sure you have the correct code, then it will work.

Under glove box, bottom left corner, there is a connector right below the fuse box.

It should tell you the p.s.i. on the tyre? but my 1 litre 106 xn has 13" wheels and holds 30 p.s.i. in the back and front tyres.

Ideal time to change cambelt is 60000miles, so if you're talking 100000km, you're OK, if you're talking 100000miles, get it done yesterday

umm buy a camel

2 litres

the diagnostic socket on peugeot 307 is under the ash tray( behind the gear lever). Lift up and remove the rubber pad and there it is.

Dave

1) Take of the wheel 2) Remove the brake pads (if Bendix calipers, remove the small spring and bar fitted to the top edge of the pads)
3) If there are two screws attaching the disc to the hub these need to be removed
4) The discs should now be loose and can be removed from the hub without removing the calipers.


Hope this helps

Every 5 years or 60,000 miles which ever comes first.

It seems there are more than one type of cable for the 206 series. My experience is with the auto-adjusting type - the cable cover stretches to avoid being loose. The tricky part is the the connection to the pedal. First release the gear box end of the cable ... very simple, just force the gear box lever towards the cable and pull the large disc-shaped end of cable (1) out of the lever slot (no screws, no locks). Then release the other disc-shaped rubber terminator, also, just pull it out (no screws or locks). Now go inside the car and loose the screw that holds the clucth pedal assembly. Pull it down so you can see the cable terminator into the small plastic lever (the "bielete") behind the pedal ... pull the connector in the reverse direction of the cable and it will come out ... now just release the front end connector ... again just pull it towards the engine, a little angle, ad it will come out ... easy after you spent some hours discovering how to do it. Good luck.

1 2 3 4

-------=================---o

1- gear box lever terminator/connector

2- intermediate rubber connector

3- front end terminator

4- pedal terminator

All you have to do is turn the ignition off and press and hold the left button on the dash and then turn your ignition back on there will then be displayed a symbol of a spanner and a timer starting from 10 and wait for it 2 count all the way down then turn your ignition off and job done.