Peugeot 306

none

sounds like the head gasket has gone..

Has it got a oil cooler if so that can leak oil into the water.It is located on the front of the engine and is easy to replace.The biggest job is cleaning the oil out of the water

Could be a Faulty relay.

TNT

Lake Michigan, the third largest lake in the

USA is 306 miles long and 118 miles wide.

Hi Remember if not sure ask a friend or professional who knows how to help first determine if the fuse has gone or not, you can normally see the clock working even without the lights working. This should tell you if the fuse is ok or not. If clock is not working then the fuse has gone replace fuse or if is clock working it probably means that the bulbs have gone. (Please note I changed the bulbs and they worked for a day and then stopped working- I then changed the clock) you then have to remove the clock from the dash Remember if not sure ask a friend or professional who knows how to help If its a basic 306 very very gently prise the panel of that surrounds the clock and there you will see two security screws, remove these and gently remove the clock remember a wire is attached to the back then on the back of the clock are two like black rings/plugs not sure if these turn to the right or the left. Be care-full turning them because they only turn a small bit before coming out and there you will find a small bulb. This has to be pulled out like a tooth. Pull the bulb gently. Bulbs can be bought from any good garage or spares shop good luck:-) Remember if not sure ask a friend or professional who knows to help

Nothing. It is a number.

this will happen on all diesel engines (if its going to make reasonable power) its basically soot/carbon from the exhaust and unburnt diesel. on some high power turbo diesel cars there is proper plumes of black smoke.

you only need be worried if there is blue smoke while on boost as this means the turbo is shot.

but black = good

70,000 miles

There is a TDC sensor on the front of the gearbox bell housing of most 306 Diesel models (up to MY '99 I believe) Neil

sounds like the glow plugs need replacing

The lock is sticking. It needs to be removed and cleaned. It could also be faulty wiring. 306's are notorious for this. Open the drivers side door & check the rubber piping by the door hinges for damage. Make sure the plug is in properly. If all looks ok, you'll probably have to get the wiring re-done.

Have you tried consulting a 'Haynes' manual? You can get 'em from Halfords and they are specific to each car. Also, this is a tough job. Even with the manual it'll take you a few hours and you need the right tools and parts. If you still want to do it yourself just watch out when removing the clutch components as wear to the clutch parts causes dust which may contain asbestos in the older cars. And i don't need to tell you that you DON'T want to be breathing that stuff in. Just to get to the clutch you need to remove the transmission, which in itself is a mission (no pun intended). For that you need to jack up the front of the car with a trolley jack and NOT a normal jack found in your boot! Most people dont have these. You also need to drain the transmission fluid and remove the starter motor and a load of other stuff which is all major effort so seriously, get someone who knows what they're doing to do it. It does cost around 700 of your hard earned pounds to replace the clutch but it is worth the money. The parts themselves probably cost half that but you need serious experience and patience to do it yourself. Further Information half way through changing one myself. Worst problem are 8mm hexagon/Allen bolts that hold gearbox to engine. They have become rounded. Removal of right hand drive shaft also a problem as not able to move it outwards from the intermediate bearing. A Haynes manual is a must but even that relies on photographs rather than exploded drawings as they used to have.

to what you have discribed it sounds like it is the "loss of coolent" light. top your water up and if i keeps happening then it may be a couple of things.

What about it? If you want to know where it is, remove the centre console from around the handbrake and its under there.

mabe pasenger air bag swicht of at driver side

Peugeot 306 Mk 1

The rear wiper relay is mounted on the motor support bracket.

The front wiper relay is hidden behind the fuse box in the drivers footwell. This is a nightmare job so check everything else first, motor etc. To remove the relay , disconnect the battery then you will need to partly remove the fuse box by pulling out the red tag on the left of the box and ease it forward taking care not pull any wires out of the fuse connectors. Ease the fuse box towards you and twist it gently anticlockwise so that you can see behind it. You will see a blue relay tucked to the left of the jumble of wires. If you pull the carpet flap above the accelerator pedal down, you will be able to insert one finger below the relay holder. As it almost impossible to remove the relay from where it is positioned, you can make the job easier by releasing the relay holder from the body fixing by placing a flat bladed screwdriver between the holder and the plastic fixing clip. Twist the screwdriver and spring the holder away. Using your one finger from underneath and another (or screwdriver) from the fuse box access you should be able to manoeuvre it towards you, relay first and then remove it. On replacement, simply nest it back where it was originally and don't bother with clipping it back. You won't be able to and in any case, it is not going anywhere. Replace the fuse box and remove all those unpleasant thoughts about Peugeot designers from your mind as you will just have just saved yourself a lot of cash.

The relay contains a timer chip type U642B which is a bi-polar integrated circuit designed for the wiper and a web search for the chip should reveal the circuit.

FULL SPEED WIPERS ONLY?

A recent fault I came across was that I only had full speed and no park or mid speed. The problem was not the relay but the white connector into the motor body had fractured inside the nylon insulator block on the motor housing. The answer was to remove the broken connector, drill a hole through the nylon connector path to allow the brass tag to go in further and then solder the break. You can test the motor by applying 12v to the red wire (full speed) and then to the white wire (mid speed). Black is ground. The other wires go to the sweeper switch for wiper parking.

I believe the following relates to a later model.

Look at all the black relay boxes, the wash wipe has 6 connectors/wires and looking carefully you will see on the relay at each connector the numbers 2,1,4,6,8,5 in that order - this is for pre April 1997 Post April 97 a blue box, 6 connectors numbered 2,5,8,6,1,4

You can find 306 wiring diagrams for wipers with rain sensors in the car's owner's manual. You can also check with different auto stores.

The glow plugs on my 1994 Peugeot 306 XRDT were not too hard to replace for three of them. They are about 1-2cm in diameter, all located on the front of the engine, leaning forwards with a wire from the alternator connected to the third plug from the left, and another wire connecting this and the other three glow plugs. They re about the same size as a regular spark plug. The leftmost plug (as you look at the car from the front) is directly behind the fuel pump, I couldn't get to this and I don't think you can without taking the fuel assembly apart (best to leave this to a mechanic!).

For the other three, I started by removing the intercooler (a flat box sitting right on top of the engine with black plastic sides and a fine mesh steel grille), it has five bolts of different lengths to undo and a roughly 5cm/2in diameter flexible pipe. There are three upward-facing bolts at the back of the intercooler box, and two on the front, one facing upward and the other facing forward. The flexible pipe has a pipe clamp you undo with a screwdriver and then it slides off.

You should have a better view of the engine block now and should be able to see the four glowplugs by looking around or through a few wires and the fuel pump on the left as you look at the engine bay from the front. Remove the nuts anticlockwise on what plugs you can get to with a spanner or socket of the correct size, take care not to drop it. You should then be able to slip off the wire connecting them to each other on each one. Using a slightly larger diameter spanner (12-13mm from memory, but that may differ), undo each plug by unscrewing anticlockwise and replace with a new one, screwing it in clockwise until a turn or two past fingertight. Ensure that the new glowplugs do not have small 8mm nuts on their threaded section already, if they do take the nut off before you install the plug onto the engine and keep it to one side until you need it. Replace the wire that just connects the four glowplugs together AND the main current wire onto that third plug from the left (if this isn't done the car won't work at all!).

From here simply reverse the process of taking the intercooler off to put it back on again, ensuring the long bolts go in the long holes, shorter ones on short holes etc. Reconnect any wires or pipes you may have disconnected and pushed to one side in the course of the job. Finally check for dropped parts or tools left behind in the engine bay and then start the car as normal.

Either directly above or below the alternator - depends on the engine - follow the pipes from the hydraulic fluid reservoir is the easiest way. I know because mine just disintegrated at 60MPH coming up to a roundabout!!!

you will have to open a injector on the engine to let the fuel bleed make sure all air is out the system

if it is an aluminum block stage 1 20 Nm then stage 2 angle tighten a further 240 degrees

if it is a cast iron engine block stage 1 20 Nm stage 2 angle tighten a further 120 degrees then stage 2 angle tighten another 120 degrees

these settings are for a petrol engine

Timing on a diesel? your haveing a laugh?