Peugeot 306

Lots of oil seals on a 306 need to know which one

No there are two. O/S and N/S. A kit should set you back no more than £20.

i had this problem, it was using water to, all i did was put 2 bottles of radweld in which cost a few quid from halfords, i have no problems since touch wood, give it a go

The temperature sensor for the coolant system is located on the front of the engine. The exact location of the coolant temperature sensor is dependent upon the year of the engine.

just done one of these. Disconnect battery!!. I'm presuming the sunroof is closed?. If so remove the control panel cover and remove electrical connector to PC board in sunroof control. Now you need to point a hair dryer at all the electrics and dry them out as much as possible. once dry, spray with wd40. now replace connector and reconnect battery. hopefully sunroof will now work. To prevent further leaks, clean out the sunroof drainer's with 2 meter piece of nett wire and washing up liquid with water. drainer's are located in both front corners of sunroof aperture.

Just remove the Battery for 15 sec. (+) then it is reset already, Rizal

2 litres

yes

As long as the 4stud alloys came off another peugeot or citroen then definitely if not then you'd need to check the spacings of the holes as different maufacturers have slightly different fitments.

Possibly not, the 306 was face-lifted in 1998 with a variety of changes. Check with the dealership.

IF it is the all the dash board lights it is probably a fuse, else if it only one light the switch on the is probably gone that lights up that light. There are no dash bulbs a they are LEDS so the chances of them blowing is slim

185 Nm

see mad `moles mondeo madness`.i used the second set of suggestions,THEY WORKED!

Check your master brake cylinder, as the warning light will come on if the fluid level is low. If that is OK, you probably need to change your brake pads.

passenger wing mirror

The thing that is annoying about cars is that there are normally multiple things that can cause just 1 problem. So I'll give you a list...... Could be piston slap. Or Ignition timing wrong Ignition system buggered generally Air leak in the throttle body or carburettor or any of the hoses around there. (this also causes the car to hesitate on acceleration or to idle erratically or to stall randomly, so depends on if anything else is wrong) Could be a build up of carbon or dust in the engine Could even be that one of the pipes around the throttle body or carburettor is blocked or partially blocked.

Realistically you need to take the car to a garage. Or systematically eliminate all the things above, and more which i probably have forgotten.

I'd ignore this to be honest, It's a diesel so it doesn't have a carburettor or ignition system like a petrol. If this advice was any good it would be for a petrol.

Knocking in a cold diesel that's just been started isn't that unusual, as long as it goes away. Different types of oil can make a difference to the noise it makes. Next time change the oil filter and see if you can find a type of oil recommended for 306 td.

disconect all pipes back and front then jack car up disconnect the oil pipe to the turbo from underneath the car then undo the 10mm nuts on the exhaust then return to the top of the car and undo the air cooler size 6 allenkey thn remove it and crack the head bolts with masterbar ant a t55 torxe bit then untention timin belt remove 13mm bolt from side of head on the engine mount support engine undo engin mount top mount then move the head along to the passenger side as there is locking dowl that goes through the engine mount fiting is a reversel of what you have done time it takes to do is roughly 4 hours

blue or green both are anti freeze

If you are talking about the electric low pressure diesel lift pump in the tank, then its a bit of a messy one, but not too hard to do.

Lift up the rear seats, and you will see a round plastic cover in the floor behind the drivers seat. Remove the cover to expose a hole in the floor. Under the hole in the floor you will see the electric pump, it has two pipes going in, and an electrical connectio.

First, remove the electrical connector, and the pipes. The pipes have a push lock to keep them from falling off in use, so you will need to compress the lock to remove them. They are pretty rigid, and there isn't a whole lot of room, so take your time.

around the top of the fuel pump is a locking ring. You need to remove this, and it is going to be pretty stiff. You may want to resort to a hammer and a broad headed screw driver!

Once the ring is loose, you will need to pull the pump up, then twist it and wiggle it free. The hole is NOT directly over the fuel pump, that would make this too easy, its actually offset to right. Make sure you have plenty of rags and wipes as there is going to be a fair amount of diesel that could drip around the interior of your car if you are not careful or prepared. The fuel gauge sender unit is also built into the fuel tank, so keep in mind the metal stalk and float at the bottom of the pump.

Make sure to remove the rubber seal from around the pump carefully as you will not usually get a replacement with the pump. Also, the plastic fuel tank can warp once the pump is removed, and if you leave it a long time, fitting the new pump can be a right horror!

Take care with the new pump, especially the fuel gauge sender unit, dont bend the arm! Fitting is simply the reverse of removing, take extra care to ensure that the pipes are connected tightly and once fitted that there no leaks from the pipes or the collar.

This took me about 30 minutes to remove and about the same to fit the new one, but that was with numb fingers in -5 centigrade temperatures, your own results may of course vary!

Best of luck!

If there is oil in the radiator top up bottle the most likely cause is that your head gasket has blown and the oil is leaking back into the cooling system. A couple of checks you can do is 1. remove the oil filler cap and look inside the top of the engine and look at the filler cap if there is a grey residue (emulsified oil) then your head gasket has most likely blown also you can remove the radiator filler cap and start the engine, if there are any bubbles coming up in the radiator bottle this is also a pretty sure sign that hte haed gasket has blown. Not a cheap job to repair. Hope this helps. If there is oil in the radiator top up bottle the most likely cause is that your head gasket has blown and the oil is leaking back into the cooling system. A couple of checks you can do is 1. remove the oil filler cap and look inside the top of the engine and look at the filler cap if there is a grey residue (emulsified oil) then your head gasket has most likely blown also you can remove the radiator filler cap and start the engine, if there are any bubbles coming up in the radiator bottle this is also a pretty sure sign that the head gasket has blown. Not a cheap job to repair. Hope this helps.

Hi, if you look at the pedal, there is a 10mm bolt, adjust it out to make the pedal higher, or adjust it in to make the pedal lower.

you need to check the relay is back in correctly. if it still dosent start you need to check you are getting power to the fuel solenoide on the fuel pump (For diesel engine). for a petrol you need to check for spark and that fuel is going in to the cylinders.

alternater may be going out it may only have mints to live it happened to my f150

You cannot adjust the belt tension on the alternator, it is automatically adjusted by the automatic tensioner located by the A/C compressor, if it's squealing check the tensioner for sticking, the belt for wear and the pullys for bearing noise.

I don't know about that, like most all cars, you can tighten/loosen the belt by moving the alternator back and forth.

You can adjust the serpentine belt in about 5 mins. get a socket wrench preferably one with a swivel, and losen the top bolt of the alternator located on the back-top of the alternator, dont loosen too much, hard to tighten back up when TB is in the way. take a large prybar, find a solid point to put base of prybar up against, push top of prybar towards rear of vehicle till belt is at desired tension"may take a try or two" hold prybar in place till you can get bolt on alternator tightened. should be all set.

Robert Cravens_Robert@yahoo.com

Under the bonnet there is a cap with an orange handle sticking out of it, unscrew it and pull it with the dipstick out, fill up roughly a glassfull then slide the dipstick and cap back in and screw shut.

To check the level of the oil, pull the dipstick out using it's orange handle, wipe it down with a rag, put it back in for five seconds then pull it out again and check if the oil is above the two notches on the end of it, if it is then it should be fine, if it isn't then top it up.

I have just replaced a clutch on a 806 svdt and it was easy with the haynes manual but i did it at home and the clutch cable on the cars made after 1994 are self adjusting but this is only while the original clutch is slowly wearing out. when you replace the clutch you effect the cable and clutch position and cause the clutch cable not to self adjust because it doesn't adjust if there is no resistance.this can only be achieved by a trained technician.I had to pay �90 for a mechanic to come out and do this for me.I also had to buy alot of new washes,bolts and seals to replace the old ones.look into how much it will cost to have it done by a local mechanic before you attempt to do it yourself as they will be 30 to 40 percent cheaper than a peugeot dealer and you will save even more if you buy the clutch kit yourself first.good luck

brian

Further Info

Haynes manual a must. Problems found when trying to remove the Allen bolts that hold gear box to engine. Allen keys too springy and risk rounding the heads, buy a set that fit a 1/2" drive ratchet especially an 8mm. Also difficult to remove right hand drive shaft from intermediate bearing. Bottom ball joints held in again by Allen bolts, very poor access to get a key in. Mine were rounded so had to grind them off and replace with height tensile nuts and bolts. Undo the front drive shaft nuts at the hubs before you take the wheels off, they are so tight. Good luck if you do attempt it.Pete