Plymouth Sundance

If it's a loud bang you're hearing when the suspension is compressed, it might be the control arm bumper (a rubber bumper that prevents metal from hitting metal when the a-frame or control arm hits the frame).

Well those normally tend to be whats wrong, or the bushing on the top of the srut where it meets the tower. To check ball joints and tie rods. lift the vehicleand secure it with jack stands and take a pry bar and put the end of the pry bar to where it is between the ball joint and the control arm or tie rod and and knuckle. then put pressure on the joint or end and mve it up and down repetativly. If the joint or end has a lot of play or clicks then you know what your problem is. Also check your motor and transmission mounts see if the are cracked or broken.

Couple of things. Thermostat might be stuck closed, not likely. Make sure you have enought fluid in your radiator. What I dealt with was my radiator fun not working properly. Check to make sure that works. My fan actually worked, I had to re-route the relay because an in-line fuse had blown that delivered constant power to the relay while the relay itself would trip the fan on. There is no fuse inside the car, so that is why I had to do it that way. If you test your fan and it works, but doesn't turn on when the engine gets hot, that might be your answer. Check with a mechanic to help you reroute the relay. Good Luck!

yes one way

Most fuel pumps now are inside the fuel tank. Call any parts store and they should be able to tell you if it is inside the tank by looking up the part. , EzForJesus

The horn is under the drivers side front bumper.

The Fuse for the radio should be located within the fuse panel. It should be a 10 watt i believe

I have a 94 Plymouth sundance duster. I am sure the location is the same. It should be right behind your oil filter underneath the engine. If you jack the front end up and slide underneath, you should see it behind the oil filer.

If yo have the six cylinder the above is true. If you have a four cylinder the starter is under the manifolds on the rear of the engine.

Allmost all starters are situated next to the engine block and are bolted into the transmission case with either two or three large bolts (usually 9/16") In your case the starter is behind the engine block (I am assuming that you have a four cylinder) on the transmission side, underneath the intake manifold. Your starter would be a three bolt type with one of these actually being a stud and nut. don't let its position scare you, the bolts are easy to get at once the "L" shaped intake hose is removed. Please be advised that the only way to truly be safe while working on a starting and charging problem is to remove the ground side battery terminal from its post.

I assume that like many older cars that have not had the drum off in like forever, the drum is seriously rusted to the flange. It will takes lots of patience, penetrating oil (don't get it inside the brake shoe area, it may deteriorate the boots on the cyclinder), a hammer and a puller that can span the drum. Usually this last item is hard to find, so I usually use two or three large screwdrivers to wedge between the backing plate and the edge of the drum. Be careful with this screwdriver approach because it's easy to distort the backing plate. Apply force to the drum, apply penetrating oil to the center of the hub, apply a hammer to the center of the hub. The idea is to break loose the rust. Before you start this wedging and hammering, though, clear away as much rust as possible from the area where the drum will want slide off. A file or screwdriver blade helps. There's no use trying to slide the drum over rust that's visible and easily accessible. Before you start, see if you can check the grease seal on the back of the stub axle assembly. If the seal has a hole in it from rust, you get to replace the stub axle also, so maybe the best thing is to see if you can remove the parking brake cable, the hydraulic cable, and expect to replace the drum and cylinder along with the brake shoes. You'll probably have to replace the drum anyway, so smash it with a big hammer. The bolts that hold the stub shaft to the control arm are probably not accessible from outside the drum. Sorry about your luck. Sometimes some gentle heat from a torch will loosen the rust, but don't do that if you've use penetrating oil unless you like to see flames. The penetrating oil approach will take a long time, lot's of moving the wedges and lots of hammering. But, eventually you'll see the drum start to move.

Remove the grease cap in the wheel center. Then remove the cotter pin, and finally the nut. The brake drum should slide off. Remove the grease cap in the wheel center. Then remove the cotter pin, and finally the nut. The brake drum should slide off.

Count again. Without starting the car, turn the ignition ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. After a few seconds, the check engine light will flash out the trouble code. It will consist of two digits with a very short pause between. Then there will be a longer pause after which the the next trouble code (if any) will flash out. After all the codes have flashed out, the computer will flash 5-5. Fifty five is the indication that all the trouble codes have been revealed. The computer will repeat all the codes a second time. By the way, if the code flashed out is 13 (as opposed to 13 flashes, it indicates a problem with the car's MAP sensor.

It's on the exhaust system just behind the engine. The easiest way to get to it is to go from underneath the car.

Can be found in your owner's manual or under the hood on a placard. Most plug manufacturers sell "Pre-Gapped" plugs. Go to your local parts dealership and purchase ones for your specific car, there will be no need for gapping. Edited by Russell G.

first you take the fender off the front (only if its the front door) on the side your working on, once its off you will see the hinges and take the bolts off (make sure window is down door shut and that you have someone to hold the door up). all you have to do after that is take the door off by opening it or sliding it off.

To replace the steering column in a 1989 Plymouth Sundance, first, disconnect the negative battery cable to ensure safety. Remove the steering wheel, then detach the plastic cover around the column, followed by the ignition switch and any electrical connections. Unbolt the steering column from its mounting points and carefully pull it out. Install the new column by reversing the steps, ensuring all connections are secure and the steering wheel is aligned properly.