Pontiac Fiero

A 2.5 liter GM engine is nearly identical to those put in Chevy S10 pick ups & numerous front wheel drive GMs from the mid 80s to early 90s. It all depends on what year engine you have.

It is located left side of the instr. panel on the bottom... flush mount... do a headstand and look under the dash and there it is!!!

1. Air in the hydrulic clutch line

2. Bent aluminum clutch pedal

Right in front of the oil pan (2.8l) Disconnect the battery before getting a wrench close to the starter. The starter has a HOT battery cable runnign directly to it. Shorting this to the frame with a wrench might start a fire, blow up your battery, or both.

There is no fan belt on any year Fiero. Electric fan motor,

From the factory there were no supercharged Fieros. Only 2.5L 4cylinders and 2.8L V6s. There are many kits available to drop in superchargered 3.8L V6s, or small block V8s, even Cadillac northstar V8s.

disconnect the battery for one minite will clear all codes. gmjim

4 quarts with filter.

Best top speed for a stock V-6 Fiero: 135 mph Worst: 115 mph

Both Fieros were '85 GT's, the latter with an automatic transmission.

The 2.8 V6 has a single coil, not a coil pack

It is located behind the distributor and on top of the engine.

Unplug the wire harness, un bolt and reverse procedure to change.

I have not heard of this swap before.

Get out your tape measure and figure it out.

The biggest problem with all Fiero V8 swaps is the tight clearance between the two strut towers.

Good Luck

My favorite is the CD player with muli-band equalizer from a 91 to 92 Trans AM. You will have to make a wiring harness adapter, but these are available from eBay complete for $10 to $15. The great thing is that the display lighting is red and dims with the other instrument console lighting and it mounts like factory with the same mounts, knob shape, and lettering fonts as your Fiero. There is also a guy on eBay that modifies the above stereo to include an aux input for your iPod / mp3 player.

I think it may be the ignition module but here are all the checks Car cranks but will not start * There are two likely causes of this. One is a fuel delivery problem, and the other is an ignition problem. * Turn the key to the run position. Do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two? Note that it does not do it EVERY time you turn on the key, just when it's been several seconds or more, and the fuel system needs to be repressurized. ** If you don't hear it, you need to check your fuel pump relay. ** If you do hear it, the fuel pump is probably not your problem. * Check for firing injectors. On the four-cylinder, this is simple. Take off the air cleaner and you can see the injector spray fuel. It should spray a nice conical shape. On the V6, you can't see the injectors, but if you have a voltmeter, you can test whether they are being fired. This won't necessrily eliminate them, but it is unlikely that all of your injectors would go bad at once. Unless you got something bad in your gas, or you are out. (You DID make sure you're not out, and that it's not your gas gauge which is bad, right?) ** To test whether the ECM is firing the injectors, disconnect the large flat six-connector wiring harness located near the passenger side of the rear (closest to the trunk) valve cover. Each set of two pins can be tested with a voltmeter. The first two power three of the injectors. The middle two fire the other three injectors. The last two fire the cold start injector (only fired during cranking, when the engine is cold). ** If they aren't firing, you have a wiring problem or an ECM problem. Don't forget to check the fuses. There are two, one for each bank of injectors. * If you didn't find anything wrong with the fuel system it's time to check the ignition system. The easiest thing to do, is to take off the distributor cap (don't disconnect the plug wires) and look at the metal contacts on the inside. If they are covered with corrosion (flaky white stuff), then take a screwdriver and scrape it off. Note that if it is very corroded, it may mean the contacts are too worn and need replacing. If your cap needs replacing, your wires probably do too. But you can test a few other things for free, before you spend the $20-$30 for a new cap, rotor, and set of wires. * One of the most common causes of ignition problems on the Fiero is the ignition module. Many parts stores will test it for free, or you can buy a $30 tester that will do it for you. * If you don't have anywhere handy that will test it for free, disconnect the wire leading from the coil, at the distributor. Set it so that it is next to something metal, like one of the nuts on top of the strut tower. Have someone crank the car, while you watch (not too closely!). You should see an arc of electricity from the wire to the metal. If not, your coil is not firing. This means either your coil is bad, or your ignition module is bad. * If it did arc, then check the individual spark plug wires in the same way. You should see a nice blue arc every time. If you get a good spark on some wires, and not on others, replace the wires. Then re-test. If you get the same results, replace the distributor cap and rotor. * If the hold-down bolt on the distributor is missing or if you have removed the distributor, it may have become turned enough so that the timing is too far off to start the car. You will have to set the timing to fix it. If the distributor was removed, you may have to re-time the engine.

on the 1984 model, the 2.5L had oil control and cooling issues. The overheating would cause the the oil to thin out, leak and catch fire.

The 12.5gallon gas tank in mounted between the driver and passenger seats along the tunnel from the front to rear firewalls.

Easiest would be to disconnect the wire at the emergency brake handle.

This depends on if it has Air Conditioning.

AC cars the oil pressure sending unit is on the forward passenger side of the engine over the AC compressor and sort of beside and slightly below the battery.

On non AC cars it is near the oil filter accessible from underneath the car on the forward side of the engine.

No the 1988 underwent a big upgrade

you have to remove the steering wheel then using a lock plate removal tool depress the lock plate and removed the clip that holds it in place then remove the lock plate then remove the screws from the turn signal switch and pull it up slightly then remove the screw that hold the lock cylinder in place then remove the lock assembly

what is the fuel pressure on a 1987 fiero gt

Firing order on a factory 2.8 V6 is simply 1-2-3-4-5-6.

This was hard to do on my 86 2.5L 4 cylinder because in order to put the new alternator belt on... you have to get the other belt off... first what you have to do is loosen up the 2 pivot bolts on the AC compressor from underneath the car.. mine were pretty stubborn but i eventually got em to budge... once you can move the AC, remove the crank/water pump/AC belt. then loosen up the alternator pivot bolt located on the underside of the alternator...(this can be done from either top or bottom) once you can move the alternator.. slip the belt onto the alternator pulley and around the water pump and crank. then tighten the alternator pivot bolts while putting as much possible tension onto the belt and re-tighten alternator into place. then put or replace crank/water pump/AC belt and re-tighten the AC while putting as much possible tension on the belt by pushing the AC forward with a pry bar or screwdriver. good luck

the 2.5L motor is one of the easiest engines to work on. If you have a distributer on yours, it is a pain to replace the cap and rotor, and wires, and the DIS ignition module is prone to failure, but its a basic, straightforward engine.

You move the AC compressor and the alternator to adjust tension.

Has to be done from under car.

General Motors brand Syncromesh oil, It is available from your GM dealer or some parts stores.