Volvo 940

To remove the head on a Volvo 940, first ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the battery. Next, drain the coolant and remove any components obstructing access to the cylinder head, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, timing belt, and any electrical connections. Loosen the head bolts in the correct sequence to prevent warping, then carefully lift the head off the engine block. Be sure to clean the surfaces before installing a new head gasket or reassembling.

To change the timing belt on a 1994 Volvo 940, first ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the battery. Remove the engine covers and any components obstructing access to the timing belt, such as the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. Align the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft, then loosen the tensioner and remove the old belt. Install the new timing belt, ensuring proper alignment with the timing marks, and reassemble the components in reverse order before reconnecting the battery.

To replace the handbrake cable on a Volvo 940, first, lift the vehicle and remove the rear wheels for better access. Disconnect the old cable from the handbrake lever and the rear brake assemblies, then route the new cable through the same path, ensuring it's properly seated. Reattach it to the handbrake lever and brake assemblies, adjusting the tension as necessary, before reassembling the wheels and lowering the vehicle. Finally, test the handbrake to ensure it's functioning correctly.

In the 1992 Volvo 940 Turbo, the air temperature sensor is typically located near the intake manifold or in the air intake duct. It's often positioned near the throttle body to measure the temperature of the incoming air. If you are looking for the exact location, consulting the vehicle's service manual or a repair guide can provide precise details and diagrams.

To replace the water pump on a Volvo 940, first, disconnect the battery and drain the coolant. Remove the serpentine belt and any components obstructing access to the water pump, such as the timing belt cover. Unbolt the old water pump, clean the mounting surface, and install the new pump with a new gasket. Finally, reassemble the components, refill the coolant, and run the engine to check for leaks.

Could be valve guides and seals clean crankcase breather .poss. backpresure

first check your fuse panel located behind ashtray and change fuse if that doesnt work check your code in radio if stock

I have a 92 940 turbo as well My fuses are located behind the ashtray. If you lift up under neath the ashtray it should pop out and on the back it will tell which fuse it is I want to say 23? but I am not sure as I am not near my car.

-- Can you access the two power connections on the motor ? If so, touch a voltmeter

to the power terminals and verify the appearance of 12 volts DC there when the radio

is turned on.

-- If no volts there, then the problem is wiring, or a fuse, or the motor-output-voltage

from the radio.

-- If volts are there but the antenna doesn't raise, then the motor is shot. Replace it,

or pull the antenna up and leave it up, like the commoners do.

-- If you can't access the motor connections, or you don't have a voltmeter available,

then you'll have to send the whole thing back to Sweden for service.

You are stupid if you put a 30W fuse where it expects a 15W.

The meaning of the fuse is to protect the equipment in the network. If the fuse is not the weakest link any longer something else must collapse in case their is a highvoltage peak, a shortcut in the circuit or something else.

4 cylinder Petrol Engines If you have a Bendix Regina Injection system, there is one pump in the gas tank. There is an access plate in the trunk. It is a tight fit and hard to change without a lift to get at the hoses from below. If you have Bosch LH injection, there are two. The main pump is under the car below the left front seat, mounted next to the fuel filter. It is easy to change. All turbo engines have LH injection. If the car runs bad when the tank is low and the main pump gets noisy, the problem is most likely the small booster pump in the tank or the short hose connected to it and the main pump is sucking air. Keep the tank more than half full until you fix it or the main pump will fail too. Change the filter. After a couple hundred thousand miles it will clog up and kill the pump. Diesel Engines It is mounted on the side of the Engine and belt driven off the Cam Shaft

Maybe this could help you start to rebuild your dashboard.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Cooling.html#HeaterCoreLeaks

Volvo 940 is prey easy to dismantel compared with other cars.

Added by Al Check the valve first and make sure you have coolant flow. Both hoses that go into the dash should get hot. Make sure the controls work, doors etc. Heater cores usually fail by leaking. If it's not leaking try flushing the cooling system.

You local Volvo dealer look up the code. If it is the original radio you need to tell the dealer the cars VIN number. If it is a replacement, you need the serial number from the radio. Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. You only get 3 trys. Then you have to leave it powered up for hours before you can try again. Good Luck.

you do not adjust the brake lights check the bulbs or check switch top of brake pedal.

The fault will be in the wiring but could be anywhere from the fuse board onwards. The bulb failure light system works by comparing to indentical systems, in this case the right & left brake lights. If the electrical current flowing to each build is significantly different the waring light comes on , ie one light is working and the other is not. If problem affects both lights this will not trigger the warning as the current to both lights is the same, zero.

Check the fuse, the wiring between the fuse board, actuation switch and bulb failure unit and bulb failure unit its self. The build failure unit is actually a set of detectors in one unit so it is possible that the brake circuit part has a fault while the rest continues to work normally.

david@roulson.freeserve.co.UK

Another Idea: I fixed that problem by removing the orange colored sensor (from the relay box) to diagnose it. I took it apart (probably needlessly) but realized that the pins had invisible non-conductive corrosion on them so I sanded the pins. Then the brakes work. So just sand the pins and replace the sensor. No need to disassemble as I did.

Transmission fluid is added through the transmission dipstick. Suggest you get a long thin funnel with a small opening in order to fit into the dipstick opening

It may be different between cars but I generally find after starting the engine, give it a slow rev. before letting it idle. revving a cold car will use a fair bit of fuel. It's not so much about keeping foot on the gas when you start, just don't push the car in it's first few minutes as it's heating up (as you are driving), just drive efficiently.

this is just the case with my 1991 940 GL. hope it helped.

Al Sez;

You should not need to "give it some gass" with a fuel injected engine.

On the other hand I have lived for 30 years where it never gets below freezing. Practical experience in say Alaska may prove me wrong.

The 1994 Volvo 940 wiper blade sizes are 20" wiper blades on both sides front and a 13/14" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

not a switch but it does have one if you over boost at about 12-14 psi.

This is no where enough information to formulate an answer. What are the symptoms? * Key Won't Turn? * Engine won't crank? * Cranks won't Catch? * Starts and dies? The best source for Volvo No Start problems is the Brickboard. http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ Good Luck

About 10.5 hours if good mechanic. Nasty job as it is behind the fire wall. You have to take the dash and the front console out just to get at it.