Volvo 940

Buy a 9004 bulb. Note that it has an "O" ring to seal it in. Don't touch the glass part. Your finger prints will attract dirt and create a hot spot. Look behind the headlight where the wires connect. That is the light socket. There is about a 1 1/2" locking ring that you turn to the right about 10 degrees. You actually turn to the left but you are looking at it backwards. Now just pull the bulb and socket out. It may be tight due to the O ring. Unplug the old bulb. Reverse the process to install.

Just re did mine.when the radio is showing "code" enter 666 666 then push AUT botton.

If the radio is showing EEE.Try again.If the radio is showing "off".You will need to turn ignition to first position (make sure your lights are off) and wait for 2 hour for the security system to reset, then try again. Cheers, Wilf ....... gain88@xtra.co.nz

if its a b230f 2-1-4-3

The lamp just slips in and is held in place with a wee plastic clip. Look behind the light unit from inside the engine compartment and you'll see the clip, lift it up by using a screwdriver and the lamp just pulls out, I changed both of mine in five minutes.

Black smoke is normally an indicator of a very rich fuel mixture. The 940 was known to have problems with the fuel pressure regulator. Also while you are looking around under the hood, check for any of the hoses from the turbo charger and the intercooler for holes. Especially the one at the intercooler on the drivers side. They tend to rot out on the bottom causing the boost pressure to be to low to handle the amount of fuel being injected.

If it is a turbo, the turbo needs attention. Bearings? Oil leak? Worse?

It could also be cauesd by the Brain box and air flow meter. So, you also need to make check-ups on those parts.

Turbo chargers that have shaft/bearing problems blow light blue almost white oil smoke, so you can pretty much rule out the turbo itself. The "Brain box" has never been known to cause this on any 940 series Volvo, that pretty much puts it out of the situation for now. Mass air flow sensors/mass meters on turbo 940s usually cause a lean mixture problem not the "black smoke" rich mixture unless the lining of the air filter housing has came apart and the air passage through the mass air flow sensor is blocked. This would give the same problems as the hoses having holes or leaks in them that I spoke of in my first answer about low boost pressure. One very unusual time I experienced a very defective oxygen sensor to cause black smoke. That can be easily checked by connecting a volt meter to the single wire lead of the oxygen sensor and look for a voltage swing from .1 to 1.0 volts. The green wire coming from the computer supplies .5 volts of reference voltage so the sensor moves plus and minus of that voltage as it reads the content of the exhast before it passes through the catalytic convertor. Please don't forget to montior the fuel pressure! In psi it should be around 43. In bars it should be around 2.9. This is of course just my thoughts based on what I have experienced over my past 30 years at a Volvo dealer. Hope this helps.

It should be behind the glove box, if applicable.

Yes there is... It's behind the head and connects to the top of the bell housing.... 10mm socket will be needed.... DON"T DROP THAT BOLT INTO THE HOUSING ONCE THE SENSOR IS PULED OUT..... Make sure the cable has a white stripe on it...

Yes I just did that to mine, and it works great. No problems.

The "upside down y" is a Greek letter Lambda. Volvo uses this symbol for their emission control system. The "Lambda Sensor" is an oxygen sensor in the exhaust system. I would look into a bad sensor. Good luck

Go to a U-Pick junk yard and practice on the cars there until you get it right. Then buy the best of the locks you fiddled with.

It is under the cowl, between the hood and the windshield. Take of the wiper arms, remove the rubber boots under them, remove three bolts on front of cowl and pull forward and up. Motor and linkage removed as an assembly. Note there are two brands of motors and the linkage is different for each. Check the passenger side cable which drives the passenger wiper while you have it apart

use the preset buttons to enter the correct numbers, then press the "aux" button

The "Fuel Injection Relay" is relay E on the mid left side of the relay panel behind the ash tray that is forward of the shift lever. There may also be one called the "Radio Supression Relay" mounted adjacent to the coolent tank on the right inner fender.

If the word "code" appears, you need to punch in the 4-digit code that's probably on a card in the brown plastic container with your owner's manual in your glove box. If it's missing, call any Volvo dealer service department and ask for the radio code. They'll ask you for the VIN number of the car which is at the bottom of your windshield. Then they should be able to look it up. Once you have the code, just punch it into your radio to unlock it. You need to do this every time you remove or kill your battery.-Ricardo Furioso

* It about a difference in electrical flow in the left and the right circuit.

* If you replace your bulbs per one instead of per pair then there is mostly a difference in electrical resistance in both bulbs. If the difference is to great the warning light comes up.

* If you lights are always from te same age then it could be that there is corrosion in one of the the bulb holders is.

If the warning lights comes up when you use the break then it is obviously that one of the arguments above is valid. Start with replacing the bulbs and to check if there is corrosion. Keep the break on and sligtly move the bulbs with a left/right twitch. This will refresh the contact. If the light goes of it was a bad contact due to erosion.

JH

No switch but does have a fuel injection relay located behind ashtray in the fuse block it should be on the left side second row from top. Fuse (1,12)(1)(31)(4)(1,11) depending on the fi system used. Will cut off the fuel pump.

The fuel relay is the one behind the ashtray, it's the large white square box about one inch square.

yes! and it is on the far left side, second row.

it takes 1" socket on it good luck on it

Replace the rear glass if you have determined all else in the system is working. The element wires are sandwiched between the inner and outer glass and are not serviceable of anything but the 240 series.

My 94 940 does the same thing. One or more of the bulb contacts is dirty or not making strong enough contact in the socket.

For most years the 940 fuel filter is under the car below the driver's seat. If the fuel injection system is Bosch there is a fuel pump mounted next to it. If the injection system is Bendix Regina, there is no pump there. It is big, about the size of a large oil filter (~3" dia X 6" long). CAUTION!! Both systems are pressurized all the time. Especially if the ignition switch has been turned on lately. Gasoline fumes are heavier than air and travel along the ground looking for an ignition source like a gas water heater. Do this work outside, not in your attached, enclosed garage. Protect your eyes, No smoking, no sparks, have a friend at a safe distance to call for help. Etc. Disconnect the Negative battery terminal first and bleed off the pressure. When you buy the filter make sure it comes with new gaskets. They look like copper or brass washers and there should be three or four of them. Loosen the bolts on the ends to disconnect the fuel lines before loosening he clamp around the filter. Use new gaskets and check for leaks afterward. For more info go to the BRICKBOARD http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/

Undo the large panel under the steering wheel (2 screws)and the ECU is a Black box about 6" long 4"wide and 1inch thick

It's a bit more involved than that. Disconnect the battery. If you don't do this at least remove the key from the ignition to disarm the airbag. Remove the Knee bolster under the driver's side dashboard (three screws) and the panel that is directly behind it (two plastic bin screws). With a flash light look up between the brake pedal and the gas pedal. The ECU is a black plastic box with the long side mounted upright and a large plug that is as width as the ECU. The ECU is held in place with a metal frame. To remove the ECU you remove it WITH the metal frame. Remove the single hex screw at about the midpoint of the metal frame and this will allow you to slide the ECU frame off.

I have done this a couple times. I am driving my 4th 940. I had 3 240s before the 940s. First get an all metal radiator. ( Bet your plastic tank split or the upper hose fitting cracked.) I have had good luck with Nissens brand. I think I ordered it from Radiators.com and picked it up locally. Make sure you get the one with the threaded temp sensor mount As for

to clear a "check engine" light on a Volvo 940:

First you have to plug the test cable into socket 2 for fuel injection or 6 for ignition codes. The codes are read as groups of red led flashes.

1)turn the ignition switch to "run" position, press the diagnostic button for 5-8 seconds, then release. the LED would come on.

2)press the diagnostic button for over 5 seconds until the LED goes off.

3)press the diagnostic button for 1-3 seconds, if the LED shows "1 1 1" , that means the DTC have been cleared.

if you have any question, please contact my at cazhiqing@126.com jerry