Volvo S40

no fuel cut off switch on s60's

Hopfully this will answer alot of questions for people out there, please pick up the old dog and bone, let the old onkaparingers do the walking, and ask a Volvo dealer what oil to put in it, or look in the manual in the glove box, seriously people, come on, the net is for harder stuff, is'NT. really it is!!

Loud noises from the front of the Volvo alternator can be either bad bearings or a bad clutch inside the pulley. The alternator is very expensive, the pulley is around $75 from Volvo and with the right tools is easy to replace once the alternator is off the car. After running the engine for 5 or so minutes, shut it off, and carefully (!) place your hand on the pulley. If it is very hot, the problem is the pulley clutch, if not, it is likely the bearing and the alternator needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Remove positive cable connecting battery. Once you do this you will have to re-program the radio. You may want to go on-line and find your radio code. Without the code you will not be able to use your radio after reconnecting the battery cable.

Remove belt shield over power steering pump by aligning holes in pulley.

Use 13mm wrench on tensioning pulley take tension off belt (don't try to wedge wrench, it WILL slip, broken fingers can result, hold wrench (turn clockwise)) and slip belt off of power steering pump. Note the EXACT routing of the serpantine belt, take a picture, draw a picture. There is no underhood diagram and it isn't intuitive.

Remove 2 brackets, 1 from manifold and 1 from AC compressor going to power steering pump. You can't remove bolt on AC compressor that's holding the bracket, just slide it out at least 3/4".

Align holes in pulley with remaining 3 bolts holding power steering pump onto bracket and remove bolts. Remove power steering pump and move out of the way, do not disconnect hoses.

Loosen, do not remove, 2nd bolt holding AC compressor to engine block. This will permit AC compressor to move far enough (1/16" or so) to allow removal of alternator.

Remove 2 (1 faston and one bolted) terminals from alternator.

Remove 3 bolts holding alternator to the engine. Remove alternator.

When installing the new alternator, install all bolts loosely until all are started, then tighten bolts. The bracket from the AC compressor will usually end up on the wrong side of the alternator, don't worry, with the bolt to the compressor loose, the bracket can slip by the manifold. Connect 2 wires to new alternator, install the plastic insulator you dropped when you removed the output wire.

Re-install power steering pump. Take tension off of belt idler pulley, slip belt on to power steering pump pulley and let idler put tension on belt. Use a flash light or good trouble lamp and assure the belt is correctly on all pulleys.

Install shield on power steering pump, check all bolts (including the one you loosened on the AC compressor). Reconnect positive battery terminal.

Start engine. Program radio.

Yes - it is appropriate to add gas into specified hole every once in a while. Typically after you've driven about 300 miles. Just to be safe try putting gas into the hole every 200 miles.

How do i remove the washer bottle from a Volvo s40

035 means nothing. Instructions i found were wrong. You have to hold down the odometer button 1st, then turn key just so far that all the lights on the dash come on. When the "I" button flashes, let off button and turn key to off position!! :)

put the indicator lights on (either left or right) and turn the hazard lights on and off repeatedly they should both work now if the problem was not fuse related

Under glovebox. Remove cardboard cover and slide filter downward.

With a caliper rewind tool.

It is a key that fits into the notches or grooves on the caliper piston. Mine is about an inch cube with different configurations for model/car/year and works with a 3/8" drive ratchet. Can't recall for certain, but I believe you press and turn counter-clockwise.

On passenger side remove the black cover that is right over where ppl put their feet. look toward the center and you should see a slot and a tab to pull out the old one. most likely there will be a lot of stuff in there so have a vac ready. pull out and install new one.

It is on the left side of the evaporator case. You will need to remove the accelerator pedal to gain access to it. I have heard of some "butcher" type mechanics that will just rip the old one out and shove the new one in with the pedal still in place, but the proper way is to remove it. Get a few non-lock type 6mm nuts to put the pedal back on with as the original nuts are self locking type. You need to be a pretty "flexible" person as the area you are working in is quite small and tight.

The following removal--install procedure is to be found in the Haynes publication #3569 for the Volvo S40 & V40, 1996--1999. I use this reference for my 2000 USA S40. The details are extracted from the above reference, page 12--13 [Chapeter 12, pg. 13, Body Electrical System]. 1. Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2. Apply the hand brake, and jack up the front of the vehicle, positioning the jack head underneath the braced underbody section situated behind the lower arm rear mounting, and support on it on stands under the side jack points. 3. Remove the top black plastic cover over the headlight area. 4. Remove the front direction indicator light by locating the retaining screw between the indicator and headlight unit, backing off the screw approx. one and one half turns. Slide the directional unit out of position, and disconnect the wire connector. 5. Remove the rubber cover from the rear of the headlight unit, and disconnect the wiring connectors, via the wire clips, frome the rear of the unit--Do not hand-touch the bulb itself. 6. Working under the vehicle, slacken and remove the two bumper mounting bolts [located directly behing the headlight unit] for the unit to be removed. 7. Undo the screw securing the relevant end of the front bumper to the wing, then free the bumper end and move it forwards slightly to gain the necessary clearance required for the headlight removal. 8. Slacken and remove the four retaining nuts, then carefully maneuver the headlight unit out of position. 9. Refitting a new headlight unit is the reverse of the removal procedure. 10. Headlight beam alignment is only possible using optical beam setting equipment and using the adjusters on the rear of the unit. Set the headlight switch to " O " before adjustment. The inner adjuster can be accessed through the hole in the hood lock crossmember.

For mine there was a bad sensor and Volvo had to replace it. Initially they want to charge me $125 to run tests and $350 to repair. I called another dealer and they told me that it was under warranty. I am not the original owner, so I would imagine you could get it fixed under the warranty for no charge. - John

It depends on the car. Older vehicles, with carburators and mechanical fuel pumps can continue to run after the engnine is turned off. It's a condition called "Piston Glow" or "run-on". If it's a newer vehicle, the fuel pump and injectors shut off immediately when you turn off the key so it's not possible to continute running unless there is a problem with the switch.
Timing set too far advanced and very low octane fuel may also cause dieseling (run- on). Before fuel injection this was common and some carburators had an electrical shut-off valve to stop the run-on.

Could be a number of things. Start by looking for vacuum hoses that are old, cracked or broken. Could be a simple fix. If nothing there then looks at your idle air control valve. You can unbolt it and unplug it. Look inside at the "plunger or actuator". It could be covered in carbon deposits and be sticking, or not working at all. Try cleaning it with engine degreaser and hose off cleaner with water. You may have to scrape some of the carbon off with a small screwdriver or tool. When cleaned, spray inside with WD-40 to lubricate and displace any remaining water. If that helps or fixes the idle problem it would be a good idea to replace the idle air control valve. Around $150 to $200 at your local parts store. Other possibilities are bad MAP sensor, bad mass air flow sensor, O2 sensors or fuel pressure regulator. Is your car throwing any codes? What are they? Check engine light on?

windscreen washer fluid level is low. needs filling, near front left under bonnet. See same symbol on washer tank lid.

Hi,bonnet pull is under the dash,just above the pedals,next to bottom of door.

to compress the caliper you need to buy a tool (its the only way) some sites say you can use long nose pliers but you need to have six hands any motor spare stockists will have one they say universal but its fine for the volvo to compress the caliper it has to turn as well has be pushed only needs to be used on the rear the front just push in hope this helps

yes

yes its in the passengers side bumper unplug and re plug

you can order it from here email is volvoparts@live.com any part for volvo you can get it

Depends on how old the car is, mines 1990, and i just went to the wreckers and went through jars upon jars of keys. found one that was close and bingo

Well even !990 volvo offer like 10 to 15 k combinations of keys u been so lucky should go to play lottery right after that

Or I hire you as my lead specialist lol

with was that way i have around 30-40 k no luck or lock yet

2 cent s by car locksmith specialist

It switches the control of the drivetrain (engine + transmission) into and out of the Sport mode. In this mode, the power from the engine is available quicker than in the non-Sport mode. The drivetrain computers will maintain higher RPMs, and do aggressive shifting. Of course the fuel economy is worse that way.

What year is the s40 Volvo and where exactly is the "S button" located ?

5.7 quarts. 5w30.

vovlo wont start using key