VW Beetle Type 1

A cubic yard of water

No, a 1967 Beetle hood will not fit a 1974 Beetle without modifications. The body design and mounting points of the two models differ, particularly due to changes in the front end and the shape of the hood over the years. If you want to swap hoods, it would require adjustments to ensure proper fitment.

You need a pump puller, a 13mm wrench, a 21mm wrench, a 30mm wrench and a flat-tip screwdriver. Parts include a pump, an overhaul gasket set (cheap, and contains LOTS of handy gaskets) and some anaerobic sealant. In the overhaul kit you will find two square paper gaskets with holes in the corners. Extract them and set them close to hand. You also need three quarts of oil.

Quick steps:

1. Remove fan belt (21mm wrench on generator pulley nut) and crank pulley (30mm wrench). Remove the two pieces of tin at the back of the engine and drain the oil.

2. Once all the stuff in step 1 is done you'll see a square metal plate with four 13mm nuts holding it on. That's the oil pump cover. Remove the nuts and pry off the cover, then remove the gears with your fingers (they slip right out) and use the puller to extract the pump case. Note how it's in.

3. Clean the mounting area on the engine case and the back of the oil pump cover, being sure to remove any sealant that might still be there. Spread a little anaerobic sealant on both sides of the gaskets. Put a gasket over the four bolts. Slip the oil pump body over the bolts the same way the old one was in. Put the second gasket on, then the pump cover. Install the nuts and tighten to 25 lb-ft. Put two and a half quarts of oil in the engine.

4. Reinstall what you removed in step 1, and you're done.

One end of the cable runs through a hole in the left (driver's) side spindle and is attached to the wheel bearing dust cover, the other end is attached to the speedometer.

No.

There is a dipstick located to the right of the generator/alternator belt as you look at the engine. The oil dipstick usually has a loop at the top. When you pull this out, look near the bottom of the stick. There should be 2 etched lines. The bottom line is the MINIMUM oil line and the top line is the MAXIMUM oil line. When you take it out the first time, wipe the stick off (this will wipe off residual oil that may have splashed on it) and stick it back in the metal tube it came from. Pull it out again and look where the oil on the stick ends. This is your oil level. It should be somewhere between the etched lines. If you see no oil on the stick, you are very low and need to add some (SAE 30 is usually recommended, but check your maintenance manual to be sure). If it is above the line, drain some until it is within the two marks. VERY IMPORTANT! MORE IS NOT BETTER! You can end up with a blown seal if you have too much oil. There was a reason why VW engineers put a "max" level on the dipstick! It is generally recommended that if you do not have a filter on your engine (stock VW's only have the strainer plate), then you should change your oil every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. This will keep your engine running much longer.

Put the back of the car on jackstands and crawl under. It is on the right side of the car (passenger side on a left-hand-drive car, driver side on a right-hand-drive car) on the side of the transmission, all the way at the back of the transmission.

Most Vauxhall bits will fit the 2.0 and are usually cheaper - Paula

yes

There is button that you push in that is located at the top of each seat at the base of the head rest. You push the button in to make the head rest go up and down.

1432

Get the Bug Me DVD on electrics.

***OR***

visit: http://www.1302super.com/page19a.html for an official VW wiring diagram (Super Beetle only)

the firing position for the 4.6 litre engine is as follows, open your hood and look at your engine, now, starting from the passenger side,the closest one to you is one,then two,behind it,then three and four.Number five is the closest one to you on the drivers side then six,seven,eight working your way towards the back,EASY!

1243

I don't know what year, But I can give this info.:

'H' is A 1500 motor single reliefe.

It can be made into any size motor from 1300 to the 1600 even with big bore kits like 1770.

The oil reliefe is single as opposed to dual on later models. That's fine for normal or even A little hot rodding, But not too much,

It is A good basic VW engine if you are wanting A good dependable daily driver or A off road ride that will be used with care and not trying to see how much abuse it will handle.

Open the front hood and you'll see a little white plastic tank on the driver's side wall of the trunk above the gas tank. There SHOULD be a cap on it, and if there's not you need one. Anyway, open the cap and pour fluid from a sealed, small bottle of DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid into the tank.

if it is out of a super beetle you could have some problems.

if not though, it should fit

As I recall, the oil pump is under a square cover just below the crankshaft pulley. It may be accessible without removing the engine from the car. You can; I've done it myself. You need: new oil pump, which should come with gaskets ratchet and 13mm, 21mm and 30mm sockets oil pump puller flat-tip screwdriver RTV gasket maker wheel chocks piece of glass--a 4x5 picture frame is good for this feeler gauges fresh oil, and an oil filter if you got a filter pump Remove the generator pulley nut, so you can get the belt off Drain the oil. Chock the wheels, put the car in gear, set the parking brake and remove the crank pulley bolt Remove the back piece of tin, then the tin under the crank pulley Remove the cover from the oil pump, then remove the gears. Be sure to remember which way the pump is in there--the new one has to go in the same way or it won't work. Use the puller to remove the pump case from the engine. Clean the mating surfaces to remove all specks of the old gasket. Use brake cleaner to get all the oil off. Lay the cover on the glass, and draw feeler gauges between the cover and the glass to see if the cover is flat. If it's warped, you need a new one. (If you're installing a pump with an oil filter fitting on it, skip this step.) Put a little dab of RTV on both sides of a gasket, and slip the gasket over the studs. Slip the oil pump body over the studs. Push it almost but not quite all the way on. Look at the two gears. One has a shaft, the other has a hole in the middle. They only go in one way. Put the shaft one in first. Stick it in and turn it until it drops into the slot in the end of the cam--you'll feel this happening. If it doesn't happen, you got the pump body in upside down and will need to turn it around. Put the other gear over the shaft in the oil pump body. Apply a little RTV to another gasket and slip it over the studs, then put the cover on and bolt it on. If you've got a torque wrench, 25 lb-ft should be plenty. If you got a filter pump, install an oil filter on it. Then put the sheetmetal back, reinstall the crank pulley (at least 90 lb-ft--they tighten up, though) and the belt, and fill the engine with oil.

NEW INFO: If you got a filter pump, then you may not be able to put the tin back on.

Also, when you take off your oil pump look inside the engine to see what kind of camshaft you have. Is it flat with 3 rivets or bolts and just a small hole in the center of the cam gear? If it is, then you have an early style camshaft and need to get an early style pump. If the cam gear is dished out and has 4 rivets or bolts then you have a late style camshaft and need a late style pump. If you put an early style pump in an engine with a late style camshaft, then the oil pump will not reach the camshaft, will not turn, and your engine will very quickly DIE! Also, I would NOT use RTV on the gaskets. The gaskets are a very specific thickness to provide the proper tolerance between the pump gears and the cover plate. Using RTV adds thickness to the gaskets and increases the distance between the pump gears and the cover plate and can drastically reduce oil pressure. EARLY type is up to 1970, LATE type is 1971 and later. It is VERY possible that an EARLY style pump and cam is in a LATE model VW. Most aftermarket cams are EARLY style and use 3 bolts to attach the gear to the camshaft. Don't forget to add new oil when you're done!

1 - 4 - 3 - 2

31-40 mpg

The average weight of a one year old boy is 22 pounds; the average height is 28-29 inches. The averages for a one year old girl are the same.

http://www.disabled-world.com/artman/publish/height-weight-teens.shtml

take the breather filter off and look down at the transmissionthe top starter bolt is right there

3 is a hairy back and 4 is someone you're thinking of

i beleve the horn botton is part of the air bag assembly so you need to replace the whole air bag

Remove The Oil Pan. Its Right Next To The Muffler Bearings.

^ Funny but incorrect answer. There is a thermostat located on the passenger side of the engine next to the lowercase areaunder the cylinders and pushrod tubes. It is a brass bellows looking thing that controls the air deflectors in the stock fan shroud, closing them off when the engine is cold and opening them up when the engine warmed up. There is a simple bolt threaded into the bottom of the case holding the bracket on and it needs to be unthreaded from the control rod at the top of the brass bellows. Alot of people have abandoned the thermostat and wired the control flaps open, or removed the flaps from inside the fan shroud altogether.Most aftermarket fan shrouds have no air deflectors inside them at all. Problems arise when the thermostat mechanism sticks shut and overheats the engine so common practice was to remove it. A good thermostat system can be beneficial in colder climates, just need to maintain it to keep it working good.