VW Beetle Type 1

The 2014 Volkswagen Beetle's turning circle is 35.4 ft..

1987 1994

It was a sport version of the normal car. It had different wheels, paint, interior accessories, etc. Kind of a collectable if it's in half way decent shape.

Looking in the engine bay it's on the top left side of the motor under the sheet metal for the engine cooling tin.

You have to take the tin off in order to access the oil cooler. The cooling air for the cylinders also routes some of the air to the oil cooler. I comes _out_ the front of the tin right on top of the #3 exhaust pipe.

depending on RHD / LHD

i assume your car is left hand drive,

thake the cap of the wheel ( small black cap ) behind it is another black cap with a square hole and the speedo cable sticking through,

take the clip off.

now go into the dash, if its a 73 standard you shound be able to get it from the trunk and just unscrew it.

if it's a super then take the panel with the headlight window defroster and emergency flasher switches of by taking the smaller pannels out on either side, and a screw in the middle,

you now have a hole to stick your hand in and unscrew the cable,

also you can push the speedo out if u like, it doesnt bolt on to anything, it just sits in the rubber grommet

Well there is alot of things that can cause this issue but the number one is a stripped drum . You will need two people to check it . Remove your hub caps on the rear wheels and have your second person look at the big nut in the center of the wheel. With you inside the car start it up put it in gear and with you foot still on the brake let your foot off the clutch and have your second person check and see if the big nut is spinning on either side ( left or right) if it is you have a stripped drum. Replace as per repair manual. If its not then check your axles for a bad c/v joint if it is IRS . Same type of process but you will have to look under the car at the axles to see if one is spinning. If its spinning then you have a bad cv joint , Replace as per repair manual. If its a swing axle then you need a transmission, There is no way of looking at the axles from out side the housing.

If neither of these are your problem with a IRS you will need a trans ....

you pull them off

yes but u need an adapter to fit the wider rims,i have a set on eBay look under vw beetle adapter,

Now that is a bear! The fuel line goes through the center tunnel of the floor pan and the cover is welded on. To remove that cover affects the alinement and squareness of the whole car. It can only be removed by drilling out the spotwelds to remove and has to be rewelded to install. If you must replace the fuel line... Drill a hole in the front firewall to the right of the tunnel as low as you can get it through both pieces of sheet metal. Install a new fuel line to run to the engine on floor between the passenger seat and the tunnel hump. There should be a hole under the rear seat to run it through. BE CAREFULL Of THE BATTERY if you are not using a battery box to hold it. BE AWARE IF THERE IS A HOLE IN THE FUEL LINE, the gas will gravity feed into the passenger compartment with this arrangement!!!

the side of tanny has 2 large sqaures

those are case pn, and are useless for year.

just below that, is a 45% bevel in case , there is the sn.

write it done

1-4-3-2

Same place as all modern VW hatchbacks - on the floor between the front seats.

What year/make is the vehicle? Something is suspect here. If the blinkers in the rear won't work, then the ones up front won't work either because there won't be enough load on the system to cause the flasher to work. What I think, is that you probably have one of your 1157 bulbs put in wrong and it is screwing up the system in the back. In fact, if you hit the brakes, I bet the front driving lights are illuminating. Get somebody to watch.

yes it will,

the wiring as followed;

yellow - fuel guage right side

brown- Ground, it just hooks on to the speedo housing (might be 3 or 4)

blue- Generator

blue/green (could be green / red) - Oil pressure

blue white - Hi beam light

green with a black wire - green middle light under (turnsignal) black up to

fuel guage left side (holding the speedo wires toward you

white/red - instrument lights (two joined togeather on the top

A cubic yard of water

No, a 1967 Beetle hood will not fit a 1974 Beetle without modifications. The body design and mounting points of the two models differ, particularly due to changes in the front end and the shape of the hood over the years. If you want to swap hoods, it would require adjustments to ensure proper fitment.

You need a pump puller, a 13mm wrench, a 21mm wrench, a 30mm wrench and a flat-tip screwdriver. Parts include a pump, an overhaul gasket set (cheap, and contains LOTS of handy gaskets) and some anaerobic sealant. In the overhaul kit you will find two square paper gaskets with holes in the corners. Extract them and set them close to hand. You also need three quarts of oil.

Quick steps:

1. Remove fan belt (21mm wrench on generator pulley nut) and crank pulley (30mm wrench). Remove the two pieces of tin at the back of the engine and drain the oil.

2. Once all the stuff in step 1 is done you'll see a square metal plate with four 13mm nuts holding it on. That's the oil pump cover. Remove the nuts and pry off the cover, then remove the gears with your fingers (they slip right out) and use the puller to extract the pump case. Note how it's in.

3. Clean the mounting area on the engine case and the back of the oil pump cover, being sure to remove any sealant that might still be there. Spread a little anaerobic sealant on both sides of the gaskets. Put a gasket over the four bolts. Slip the oil pump body over the bolts the same way the old one was in. Put the second gasket on, then the pump cover. Install the nuts and tighten to 25 lb-ft. Put two and a half quarts of oil in the engine.

4. Reinstall what you removed in step 1, and you're done.

One end of the cable runs through a hole in the left (driver's) side spindle and is attached to the wheel bearing dust cover, the other end is attached to the speedometer.

No.

There is a dipstick located to the right of the generator/alternator belt as you look at the engine. The oil dipstick usually has a loop at the top. When you pull this out, look near the bottom of the stick. There should be 2 etched lines. The bottom line is the MINIMUM oil line and the top line is the MAXIMUM oil line. When you take it out the first time, wipe the stick off (this will wipe off residual oil that may have splashed on it) and stick it back in the metal tube it came from. Pull it out again and look where the oil on the stick ends. This is your oil level. It should be somewhere between the etched lines. If you see no oil on the stick, you are very low and need to add some (SAE 30 is usually recommended, but check your maintenance manual to be sure). If it is above the line, drain some until it is within the two marks. VERY IMPORTANT! MORE IS NOT BETTER! You can end up with a blown seal if you have too much oil. There was a reason why VW engineers put a "max" level on the dipstick! It is generally recommended that if you do not have a filter on your engine (stock VW's only have the strainer plate), then you should change your oil every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. This will keep your engine running much longer.

Put the back of the car on jackstands and crawl under. It is on the right side of the car (passenger side on a left-hand-drive car, driver side on a right-hand-drive car) on the side of the transmission, all the way at the back of the transmission.

Most Vauxhall bits will fit the 2.0 and are usually cheaper - Paula

yes

There is button that you push in that is located at the top of each seat at the base of the head rest. You push the button in to make the head rest go up and down.