VW Beetle Type 1

1432

Get the Bug Me DVD on electrics.

***OR***

visit: http://www.1302super.com/page19a.html for an official VW wiring diagram (Super Beetle only)

the firing position for the 4.6 litre engine is as follows, open your hood and look at your engine, now, starting from the passenger side,the closest one to you is one,then two,behind it,then three and four.Number five is the closest one to you on the drivers side then six,seven,eight working your way towards the back,EASY!

1243

I don't know what year, But I can give this info.:

'H' is A 1500 motor single reliefe.

It can be made into any size motor from 1300 to the 1600 even with big bore kits like 1770.

The oil reliefe is single as opposed to dual on later models. That's fine for normal or even A little hot rodding, But not too much,

It is A good basic VW engine if you are wanting A good dependable daily driver or A off road ride that will be used with care and not trying to see how much abuse it will handle.

Open the front hood and you'll see a little white plastic tank on the driver's side wall of the trunk above the gas tank. There SHOULD be a cap on it, and if there's not you need one. Anyway, open the cap and pour fluid from a sealed, small bottle of DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid into the tank.

if it is out of a super beetle you could have some problems.

if not though, it should fit

As I recall, the oil pump is under a square cover just below the crankshaft pulley. It may be accessible without removing the engine from the car. You can; I've done it myself. You need: new oil pump, which should come with gaskets ratchet and 13mm, 21mm and 30mm sockets oil pump puller flat-tip screwdriver RTV gasket maker wheel chocks piece of glass--a 4x5 picture frame is good for this feeler gauges fresh oil, and an oil filter if you got a filter pump Remove the generator pulley nut, so you can get the belt off Drain the oil. Chock the wheels, put the car in gear, set the parking brake and remove the crank pulley bolt Remove the back piece of tin, then the tin under the crank pulley Remove the cover from the oil pump, then remove the gears. Be sure to remember which way the pump is in there--the new one has to go in the same way or it won't work. Use the puller to remove the pump case from the engine. Clean the mating surfaces to remove all specks of the old gasket. Use brake cleaner to get all the oil off. Lay the cover on the glass, and draw feeler gauges between the cover and the glass to see if the cover is flat. If it's warped, you need a new one. (If you're installing a pump with an oil filter fitting on it, skip this step.) Put a little dab of RTV on both sides of a gasket, and slip the gasket over the studs. Slip the oil pump body over the studs. Push it almost but not quite all the way on. Look at the two gears. One has a shaft, the other has a hole in the middle. They only go in one way. Put the shaft one in first. Stick it in and turn it until it drops into the slot in the end of the cam--you'll feel this happening. If it doesn't happen, you got the pump body in upside down and will need to turn it around. Put the other gear over the shaft in the oil pump body. Apply a little RTV to another gasket and slip it over the studs, then put the cover on and bolt it on. If you've got a torque wrench, 25 lb-ft should be plenty. If you got a filter pump, install an oil filter on it. Then put the sheetmetal back, reinstall the crank pulley (at least 90 lb-ft--they tighten up, though) and the belt, and fill the engine with oil.

NEW INFO: If you got a filter pump, then you may not be able to put the tin back on.

Also, when you take off your oil pump look inside the engine to see what kind of camshaft you have. Is it flat with 3 rivets or bolts and just a small hole in the center of the cam gear? If it is, then you have an early style camshaft and need to get an early style pump. If the cam gear is dished out and has 4 rivets or bolts then you have a late style camshaft and need a late style pump. If you put an early style pump in an engine with a late style camshaft, then the oil pump will not reach the camshaft, will not turn, and your engine will very quickly DIE! Also, I would NOT use RTV on the gaskets. The gaskets are a very specific thickness to provide the proper tolerance between the pump gears and the cover plate. Using RTV adds thickness to the gaskets and increases the distance between the pump gears and the cover plate and can drastically reduce oil pressure. EARLY type is up to 1970, LATE type is 1971 and later. It is VERY possible that an EARLY style pump and cam is in a LATE model VW. Most aftermarket cams are EARLY style and use 3 bolts to attach the gear to the camshaft. Don't forget to add new oil when you're done!

1 - 4 - 3 - 2

31-40 mpg

The average weight of a one year old boy is 22 pounds; the average height is 28-29 inches. The averages for a one year old girl are the same.

http://www.disabled-world.com/artman/publish/height-weight-teens.shtml

take the breather filter off and look down at the transmissionthe top starter bolt is right there

3 is a hairy back and 4 is someone you're thinking of

i beleve the horn botton is part of the air bag assembly so you need to replace the whole air bag

Remove The Oil Pan. Its Right Next To The Muffler Bearings.

^ Funny but incorrect answer. There is a thermostat located on the passenger side of the engine next to the lowercase areaunder the cylinders and pushrod tubes. It is a brass bellows looking thing that controls the air deflectors in the stock fan shroud, closing them off when the engine is cold and opening them up when the engine warmed up. There is a simple bolt threaded into the bottom of the case holding the bracket on and it needs to be unthreaded from the control rod at the top of the brass bellows. Alot of people have abandoned the thermostat and wired the control flaps open, or removed the flaps from inside the fan shroud altogether.Most aftermarket fan shrouds have no air deflectors inside them at all. Problems arise when the thermostat mechanism sticks shut and overheats the engine so common practice was to remove it. A good thermostat system can be beneficial in colder climates, just need to maintain it to keep it working good.

1963

About $4,000

It means "electromechanical power steering." They put a little electric motor in the steering system that comes on when steering assist is needed, turns off when you don't need assist, and requires no power steering fluid.

If the EPS light on your dash is on, it means this system isn't working.

Hardtop Super Beetles were made between 1971 and 1975. For the 1976 to 1979 model years, the Beetle convertibles were based on the Super.

The windshield on the super beetle (and all super beetles) is rounded and makes a little dash board. The regular beetles windshield is flat and has no dash.

Irgleloid

Not true '71 and '72 Super beetles still have flat windshields, the curved windshield on a super beetle started in 1973 and also had non flat bigger plastic dashboard.

I'm pretty sure the 85 model year was still a mechanical engine.

? vague and ambigupus.. please rephrase as to what you are doing and talking about. Vintage VW engines and cylinders 1 2 3 and 4. when standing behind vehicle you are looking at the rear of the engine. Cylinders 1 and 2 are on the passenger side, with 2 closest to you and one towards front of engine. on the drivers side are cyl's 3 and 4 with 4 being closest to you and 3 toward front of engine.

I just replaced my cable, but before that I stressed on how to do it because of the thin sleeve it runs in. All you do is take out the old cable, the new cable has two metal points on it. The straight one you feed from inside the vehicle to the back, where the old cable came out.

Pentosin G12 coolant is pink. If it's leaking inside the car, that sounds like a heater core problem. If it's leaking on the ground, the passenger side is where the hoses and water pump are.

18'