VW Beetle Type 1

curb weight ranges between 1650-1750 lb.

Most of the parts for old classic Beetles are still easy to find and relatively inexpensive.

Located and threaded into the master cylinder, it works off brake fluid pressure. Make sure it has power going into one of the terminals and will have power out with the pedal depressed. Note thatthe brake lights won't work if there is a problem with your brake fluid level beingextremely low, or you can't get the pedal to pump up (works different from most cars).

You have to shift gears in all of them, so you'd call them "manual," but in 1969 you could get an "autostick" transmission that had an automatic clutch connected to a manual transmission.

The same place all of them are, between the engine and transmission
at the flywheel.

The gross weight of the 2013 Volkswagen Beetle is 3858 lbs..

an old one- no, just a tube going into the air filter.

1900lbs

When the car came from the factory, they were fixed.

About 190 to 210 degrees fahrenheit. Perhaps a tad higher.

Except for the very early models they are automatic, you don't need to do anything special to start the engine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4OmiVH2J0&eurl=http://oldcarandtruckpictures.com/VW/

= Vintage VW Training Film - Ignition Timing Part 2 =

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIrA4iWkhbE&feature=related

There are a bunch of these films at http://www.youtube.com/user/volksfolks

I don't know if it will answer your direct question but that are cool to watch

Without knowing the year, type/size of carb or bike I'll try and simplify this as much as I can. Usually the more details the better.
Carbureation is simple. It's just the mixing of air and fuel to make an explosive mixture. It's all the variables thrown in that makes things complex.
A basic carburetor (herein shortened to carb.) has 5 parts that can be adjusted; float bowl level, main jet, pilot jet, needle, airscrew. The float bowl level is adjusted by bending the tab on the float arms. The objective here is to raise or lower the fuel level in the bowl. This in turn regulates the amount of fuel entering the air stream. The size of the main jet also regulates the amount of fuel that enters the airstream when the throttle is open. Otherwise the needle blocks the hole in the main jet. The needle also affects the fuel flow. The taper on the needle determines at what point of the throttle opening the fuel begins to flow and how much fuel enters the airstream. The more radical the taper, the faster the fuel/air ratio increases. Also raise the needle in the slide, by putting the C-clip closer to the pointed end, and the fuel/air ratio begins to change sooner. This provides more of a hit when the throttle is opened. The fuel/air mix at idle is determined by the pilot jet and the airscrew. The slide also regulates the rate of airflow within the carb. Other factors that influence carbureation are how well the air filter is maintained, how well the airbox breathes and the type of reeds used on the intake port. Also since an engine uses the seal on the rings to provide suction to draw in air, a properly working top end also has an influence.
Is your brain sore yet ?
Why do you want to change the air/fuel ratio?
Is the bike stuttering sputtering, stalling down on pwer, carboning up, burning excessive oil....or.....????? Let me know maybe we can solve the problem with more info. OK?

There are a lot of different ones. It depends on what you are looking for. Do you want a setup that is good for daily driving, something that is great for the dragstrip, or in between? For Daily drivers, there is the 2 barrel Progressive Weber center-mount carb. It has a primary barrel for normal driving and a 2nd barrel for when you need to open the throttle. There is also the dual single barrel carbs setup, like the dual Weber ICT's, which gives you more power, but won't break you in fuel consumption. For racing, there are the dual Weber 48 IDA's. These can be bored out to about 51.5. This setup is not practical for daily driving, but if properly setup and tuned, will be pretty quick. If you're going with this setup, though, I'd recommend getting an engine with a larger displacement, like a 1776cc or higher. For something in between, there is the Dual Weber 40 or 44 IDF's. It will give you some get up and go without being too terrible on gas. It all depends on how mild or wild you want to get (and how fat your wallet is!). The 1600 dual port is a very versatile engine that can be modified in a lot of different ways, depending on what is important to you.

drop spindles. bout 150 for two

H5 engines were VW's first attempt at meeting US-market emissions standards ("M157"). Because they were jetted leaner they tended to run hotter, and it was decided to use a less-dense alloy for the case than had been used in previous engines (such as the "F" 1300 and "H0" 1500) in order to improve heat transfer out of the block. Turned out to be a horrendously bad decision - these "cottage-cheese" cases are infamous for warping, cracking, and pulling headstuds....the only thing they're good for is keeping the rain off of potentially usable internal parts (any time/money spent building an engine based upon an H5 is wasted, it's not a question of whether it will fail - only when).

1 4 3 2

No, they're way different. The Convertible has more reinforcement than the Sedan does, because the roof (which stiffens the chassis in the Sedan) is not there. Also, Convertibles from 1970 on were based on the Super, not the Standard, sedan. Don't get me wrong: it will FIT. It just won't WORK.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The driver's side (left) bank is the the "odd" side starting closest to the water pump at #1 & ending up #7: 1-3-5-7. The Passenger side (right) bank is the "even" side at 2-4-6-8. Pull the coil wire, lift the distributor cap off & leave the rotor on. Pull the number #1 sparkplug out & gently bump the starter until you feel compression in the plug hole. Bring the crank pulley up to the TDC mark while watching the direction of rotation of the rotor. When you reach TDC, note the position of the rotot versus the plug wire location on the cap. It should be under the #1 sparkplug wire lug. If it is, then the next plugwire will be #8 & on thru the firing order. It's easy once you see how it ties together. Good luck & have fun.

go to google and search"where can you find a 1970 Volkswagon beetle parts diagram"

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/

Or my fav. place parts book at BFY Obsolete parts http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/ search parts book. I think Wolfsburg West has a parts book too http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/

You can not. The two cars are completely different...the New Beetle has the engine at the wrong end. The New Beetle is bigger than the Old.

Youmight have transaxle problems.

"How to keep you Volkswagen alive. For the Complete Idiot." By John Muir. This book will not only tell you how to do ANYTHING on a bug, but it's classical wit, humor, and ease of reading makes it a classic. It's always on my nightstand.... -67 bug owner

VIN # is found under the rear seat on the wishbone part of the cassis.

With pride, glee, and 10PSI more air in the back tires than in the front. The air part is the most important - because the engine is hanging off the back of the car, control is gained by putting more tire in the back than in the front. You can either put wider tires back there, like Porsche and Lamborghini do, or blow up the tires harder.