VW Beetle Type 1

The only things on the engine that change from 6-volt to 12-volt are the heater element in the carburetor, the generator and the coil. If the engine's in the car, the EASIEST way to tell is to look at the battery. Three caps is 6v, 6 caps is 12v.

first remove the air cleaner assembly. That would be 2 10mm bolts on the valve cover...then tilt the assembly up and disconnect the vacuum line attached to the underside. Then there are 4 12mm nuts on all 4 corners.....you can get these very easily with a 1/4" drive set. Then label and remove all the vacuum lines, remove the fuel line and unplug the choke. If the carb has been there since 84 you might need to pry a bit

Yes it should fit without any deviation from the instructions that you would follow for installing it on a 1968. The issue you will have is the glovebox door will bind. When VW added a padded dash they made the door smaller to accommodate the extra material. The other thing you will have to do is add a newer set of plastic defroster vents as they also accommodate for the extra thickness.

The Beetle wiring loom wouldn't weigh that much compared to other car wiring looms due to the lack of air conditioning ( at least for the majority of them) and heater systems wiring. Modern vehicles have much heavier looms due to the complexity of electronics involved. I have not found a source that gave weights for wiring looms.

The chassis number is written on the tunnel under the rear seat. The engine number is written on the crankcase under the generator. Then check these numbers against the VW list (theres one in John Muirs book). You probably also have an import plate that's behind the spare wheel.

The number is on the block and isjust above where the gearbox connects to the block

The Super Beetle has a slightly longer body (front end) and more modern McPherson front suspension instead of the torsion tube type.

You'll probably want a double jointed socket extension as it is a tight fit. Get a book or get the Bug Me Video on basic maintenance.

I am not certain about decoding the VIN number of our superbeetles.....but my VIN number is 1342095288! Our cars were born pretty close together. Edit: 113 beginning numbers with a 10 digit code indicates a 1973 Type 1 Beetle.

above crank pulley at the split oe motor block

Till you get in an accident and DIE from a loss of control. No but seriously it is a safety issue and they should be replaced ASAP. Driving with them can also cause excess front brake wear so it's one of those things that will cost you more to wait on.

same as 1600 cc pass side closest to fire wall

I can think of three "oil systems" you might want to put in a Classic Beetle: full-flow oiling, a high-capacity oil sump, and an external oil cooler. In order from least to most desirable: The only reason you MIGHT want an external oil cooler on a VW engine is if you're a desert racer. SCORE Class I cars and SCCA Formula Vee cars all have coolers, but those coolers are extremely expensive. Don't put one on a street car. If your street engine's overheating, there are a few things it could be: tin not on right, improper carb jetting, flaps and thermostat not installed, and the big one: TIMING!!! I've seen LOTS of overheating VW engines and almost all of them had the timing set wrong. Full-flow oiling is a mixed bag. There's a way to do it right, and it involves tearing the engine apart and having the main oil gallery tapped for the return line, with the return port on the oil pump plugged and a special pump cover installed. There's also a way to do it wrong, and that's to install a "filter pump." Those do two bad things--overheat the oil (they're very close to the muffler) and reduce oil pressure. Now for the oil sump: So long as you use a good sump, like a Berg (the only connection I have with them is a lot of my money is in their bank account), this is a very good thing to do to your car. Stock VWs hold 2.5 liters of oil, which isn't enough. The smallest sump on the market will increase this to 4 quarts, and they're finned for extra heat dissipation. Plus, they just bolt on so anyone can install one.

A Super is a Super, but most guys would say either a 1972 (last year of flat windshields, which makes the car look more like a "classic" Bug) or a 1973 (first year of curved windshield, last year of small taillights).

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" .

I'm going to tell you three ways to do it. One is the wrong way.

The first way is how I do it:

remove the battery

unhook the fuel line (plug with a pencil stuck in the end), electric wire to the coil from the front of the car, back piece of tin, and accelerator cable

put a block of wood on your floor jack. Raise it up until it just touches the bottom of the engine. Remove the four nuts holding the engine to the trans. Pull back on the engine until it clears the trans shaft, then lower it to two big blocks.

remove the carb and fan shroud, then pull the engine out from under the car. You don't have to do this if you're doing something like a clutch, where you can crawl under the car and do the work with the engine sitting under it.

The second way is similar, except that instead of removing the shroud and carb you pick the back of the car up high enough to clear the engine. You can use real big guys or a forklift.

The way NOT to do it is to get under the engine, drop it down on your chest, have a couple guys pick the back of the car up and a couple more drag you and the engine out from under it. I actually saw this done. Once was enough.

Push down and pull the shifter to the drivers seat. Otherwise you may have an issue with your tran. Mine will go in Reverse but not stay there for long. They tell me it could be a little bar in there that is bent or i may need to replace the gear.

also check your shift rod bushing.

It is cheap to replace couple bucks and does amazing things for your shifting.

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, A manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . The Standard Beetle chassis's are pretty much all the same as far as basics. You can put an early Beetle body on a Later Beetle chassis and just have a few minor changes to make as far as i can tell. They did change the suspensions so the early 60's are slightly different then the late 60's as is the early 70's. You have to know what year the body is AND what year the chassis is as each year they made minor and or major changes form one to the other. There are major changes from the standard Beetle to the Super Beetles. You couldn't put a standard Beetle body on a Super chassis. The Super Beetles are slightly longer and have a Mcpherson strut suspension so they are pretty much identical Super to Super and from one year to the next as far as the chassis. Be aware tho that every few years VW made minor changes to the mounting of the suspension parts, seat mounts and other stuff. As far as Type 1,2 ,3 or 4 the Chassis are different but they all share similar items such as you can put the larger rear drums or front disk brakes from certain years Karman Ghia on certain year Beetles,etc....

Automatic hubs require a 2 3/8" socket which can be found at most autoparts stores.

The jack goes under the quarter window (back side). There should be a metal sleeve under the running board to slide jack into. My recomendation is to buy a small bottle jack or other hydraulic type.

Dear sir I also have a 74 VW auto shift and I had the same problem here last year and there is a diaphragm that went bad on mne I can't remembe what it is called but it is rubber diapram that creates the vacuam which allows you to shift gears. You can get the Diaphram at the Bugcity website out of Berlin CT Good luck with your Bug

Matt

You are better taking off the engine with the transmission together, I have a 93' Vigor and changed the transmission and it pretty hard, there many bolts that are hard to get; if you need to changed your engine, it will be much easier taking the transmission off while the engine is off the vehicle..

1500cc h code motor