VW Polo

There is a wiring diagram for VW Golf 1998 on this link:

http://www.pdfoo.com/pdf-215/volkswagen-p2.html

I think the differences would be minimal.

hi mate just bought same car myself, its 60'000 miles. chris

It's behind the fuse box underneath the dash. Remove the fusebox which is held in by 2 screws and I think its the relay on the right.

Turn the key right over to the left, and at the same time apply pressure at the top pushing the boot closed until the key follows through the rest of the way.

Under your odometer is a knob button that you push down to clear your trip... If you twist it clockwise it changes the minute and anticlockwise changes the hour. Or the other way around... Pathetic right. Took me months

Undar das graun vire raste

the timing is set by the computer and cant be changed chilton dose make a repair manual for this car to tell you how to set valve lash

Loosen wheel lugs, jack car, remove wheel; always place jack stands under the car for support, and wheel also, to catch the car if it should fall somehow or other. Never work under car supported by jack only & wheels off....NEVER. Remove the two bolts on backside of caliper that holds caliper to caliper mount, these bolts usually have small rubber accordian like boots over part of them. Once these bolts are loosened and removed, take the caliper off the rotor by sliding the caliper up or back off of the rotor, wiggle it, it'll come, tap with rubber hammer or pry, it will come. Do not hang caliper on the brake hose once you have it off the rotor. Set it on a small stand or hang by coathanger or other wire you have on hand. Watch out for ABS wires, don't screw anything up or break the hose or ABS wires. Easy will do it. OK, now, remove old pads after noting how they are installed so you can put the new pads in the same way (a digital camera works great for working photo of how things were to begin with for reference), and what clips, if any, may be holding the pads in the caliper. Clean everything well with brake cleaner. Do that again. Clean the two caliper slide bolts well too. Open brake master cylinder and remove about half the fluid from the reservoir. Now compress the piston in the brake caliper back flush with caliper housing, using C clamp or proper tool to push it back in, either will work fine. Easy with this, retract the piston slowly into the caliper and keep it moving straight as it goes. It may be tight, relax and move it slowly, it will go. Some folks use an old brake pad to push against, any small block of wood or plastic between the clamp/tool and the caliper piston will help with this. Compressing the calliper piston back into its bore will give you necessary space to fit the new, unworn pads into the caliper. Remember the new pads are about 2 or 3 times thicker than what is coming out due to pad wear. Now install new pads same way as the old ones, replace any springs or clips that were there. (leave caliper on other side of car intact for reference, just in case you get confused, and you will get confused, at least for a minute). After new pads are into the caliper or caliper mount, put proper brake lube on slider bolts on friction points to allow for good caliper movement, do not put this on the threads, now put blue loctite on threads. Reinstall caliper over rotor, then put caliper bolts back where they go into the caliper and tighten to spec. Usually about 20 to 30 ft lbs will do, depending on the size of the bolts, they are usually not that big. Something like 10 to 13 mm.......or so. Do not get grease on rotor or friction surface of pads, nope. Also do not forget the shim on the backside of the pads, it needs to be there or put a dab of brake lube on BACKSIDE of pad to prevent squeal. Make sure brake hoses and or ABS wires are properly routed and are snapped into any clamps or brackets that are there to hold them. VOILA, Put wheels on, tighten lugs carefully in star pattern, 80 ft lbs or so. Now, Do other side caliper.......NOTE: take time, be careful, refill brake reservoir when completely thru and close top to same. Don't get brake fluid on any plastic or painted surface that you care about, its like paint remover. Do not strip bolts, use penetrating oil to loosen bolts before starting the job & BEFORE rounding the heads. Keep your hands and work area clean. Reseat pads only when job is finished and the car is back on the ground. Step on brake pedal and slowly pump until pedal stops sinking and you have good solid feel on the pedal. Try em slowly at first at idle speed to assure brakes are working and nothing is leaking. Clean up and put tools away you are through.

The firing order is as follows:

- As you look at the engine the cylinders are in order from right to left so the far right spark plug is A the next B followed by C and the far left is D. In other words, as you look at the engine from the front of your car the spark plugs will be in the following order....... D C B A

- There is a small black box with 4 connections for the HT leads on the top right hand side of the engine, if you look closely enough the connections are lettered, the top rear one is A, the bottom front one is B the top front C and bottom rear D. In other words, if you were to look directly at it from the right hand side of your car it would look like this.... C A

B D

- Just connect the longest lead to the far left spark plug and to the connection lettered D The next longest lead to the next spark plug in and to the connection lettered C etc.

The following link is for a picture of a different engine but will hopefully give you an idea of the parts I'm talking about. On the top right hand side of the main body of the engine you will see the small black box with leads coming out of it, as i said each one of those will be lettered and you will see in the picture where the pistons are and the spark plugs will sit directly above those in the order i stated earlier. I hope this helps and must stress that i can only confirm this as being the correct order for the 2001 1.4 8v polo AUD engine.

http://www.fourtitude.com/gallery/albums//Audi/A2/Technical/006.jpg

The warning lights on the Nissan dashboard are designed to let you know when your car is in need of something to keep it running smoothly. It can be warning you that you are low ob oil or other fluids, your tire pressure is low or something may be wrong with your engine. If your warning lights are coming on, take your vehicle to an auto mechanic so they can do the proper tests.

it is on the front of your exhaust there is 2 ,1 above the cat and 1 below there easy to change its just knowing which ones at fault

The inhibitor switch, or alternitively known as the Neutral Safety Switch or Multi-Function Switch for automatic gearbox, is located on the bottom of the automatic transmisssion, it is a black half moon shaped switch which is connected to the gear linkage by 3 bolts. Whilst looking under the car the switch is located on the bottom side of the gearbox near the bottom of the bumper, und0 gear linkage bold, remove final two bolts and unplug.

Reverse this to replace with new part, the part number for the replacement from VW is 001-919-823 at it is £86.06 inc vat.

HI, if it the 16 valve engine is as two cambelts, the traditional serpentine belt that goes round the crank pulley -water pump and one of the camshafts, there is also a small belt that drives the front camshaft.

the speakers on the dash board are an inch (tweeters) the speakers on the doors are normally 10inch

Most of the time you leave the pad that was against the caliper on and use a c-clamp.Some mechanics i know also open the bleeder screw to releave the pressure. it would work either way but, if you losen the bleeder screw fuild will shoot out. i would bleed the caliper after installing the brakes. losen the bleeder screw and have someone else push the brake and let some fluid out. tighten the screw before the brake peddel is let of off or air will be sucked in. air in a hydrolic brake system is bad!

I've got an H reg vw polo and the release catch is on the left hand side below the glove compartment , about at knee height.

Pull it fairly hard and then open bonnet by releasing the safety catch at the front of the bonnet( bit fiddly first time, might need to use torch to get familiar with mechanism

Press the trip reset button and keep it depressed while you turn on the ignition. After about 10 sec the oil service warning will reset and you can let go of the button

It depends of what model of Polo are you using. If your using a 1995 Polo Classic depress the trip reset button then turn on and off the ignition for 3x then number 1 - 7 will appear choose a number then depress reset button again.

how tremove aircon housing unit under the left glove comparmentona polo 1.6

timing chain

It depends on the make and model aprox.85.00-350.00 dollars there are also diff. brands. Sherch the net .Hope this helps THE ROD

There's is a little knob next to the millage if you hold this twisted to the left . . .the hours will change. . . if you hold this twisted clockwise then the minute will change. Hope this helps.

oil drain plug vw jetta 2002

How to replace passenger side head light bulbs in a 2000 Honda Accord?

one possibility...

It is on the left side driver,s board panel (you have to open driver,s door fully) just put a screwdriver into small hole and open the hatch.Inside you will find fuse layer and players for them.

other is more obvious...you will see it in front of you or glove department or under the steering wheel...

Underneath the steering wheel is a fusebox, the one for the fuel gauge is #27