Water Pumps

the coolant temp sensor( cts) reads the temp of the engine and adjust the fuel air mixture depending on the temp. if its cold out the sensor will adjust for more fuel to ease the start of the engine.

ADDITIONAL:

The Coolant Temperature Sensor measures the temp of the coolant, not the engine. The sensor controls the thermo fans on/off. depending upon temperature.

The actual engine temperature sensor is on top of the engine and does not control the fans.

If the fans do not switch on at any temperature, disconnect the 2 wire connector from the sensor (Usually at the bottom of the radiator) If fans start up with connector disconnected, replace the sensor.

While it's easy to push on water, it's hard to pull on water. When you drink soda through a straw, you may feel like you're pulling on the water, but you're not. What you are actually doing is removing some air from the space inside the straw and above the water, so that the air pressure in that space drops below atmospheric pressure. The water column near the bottom of the straw then experiences a pressure imbalance: the usual atmospheric pressure below it and less-than-atmospheric pressure above it. That imbalance provides a modest upward force on the water column and pushes it up into your mouth. So far, so good. But if you make that straw longer, you'll need to suck harder. That's because as the column of water gets taller, it gets heavier. It needs a more severe pressure imbalance to push it upward and support it. By the time the straw and water column get to be about 40 feet tall, you'll need to suck every bit of air out from inside the straw because the pressure imbalance needed to support a 40-foot column of water is approximately one atmosphere of pressure. If the straw is taller than 40 feet, you're simply out of luck. Even if you remove all the air from within the straw, the atmospheric pressure of the water below the straw won't be able to push the water up the straw higher than about 40 feet. To get the water to rise higher in the straw, you'll need to install a pump at the bottom, or a submersible pump. The pump increases the water pressure there to more than 1 atmosphere, so that there is a bigger pressure imbalance available and therefore the possibility of supporting a taller column of water. The submersible pump can boost the water pressure well above atmospheric and thereby push the water to the surface despite the great height and weight of the water column. Multiple stage submersible pumps are arranged in series so that the discharge from the first stage becomes the intake for the next stage with each successive stage adding its pressure to the previous one. Surface suction pumps are really only practical for water that's a few feet below the surface; after that, deep pressure pumps are a much better idea.

Most domestic well pumps have alternating current motors which either have a single combined 'start and run' capacitor or two separate capacitors, one for 'start' and the other for 'run'.

If a capacitor fails the motor will either not start properly or won't run properly (or won't do either).

Almost every town has an electric parts shop where you can buy new capacitors and test your old ones.

Photos might be available online through forums, websites, or repair guides that detail the steps for installing a water pump on a 1993 Mercury Topaz. You can search for "1993 Mercury Topaz water pump installation guide" or "1993 Mercury Topaz water pump replacement" to find detailed instructions and possibly photos to help with the process.

I had the same problem with my caprice a few weeks back. The water shouldn't be dripping from the back, it should be dripping on the rear passenger side floor board. That is caused by the heater core being bad, which is causing the water to seek through the carpet and drip out the back floor board.

A cast iron hand water pump works by manually pumping a lever up and down. This action creates a vacuum within the pump, pulling water up through a pipe from a well or other water source. The water is then pushed out through a spout when the lever is pushed down.

When a filter and water pump have been sitting dormant for a while, air pockets can form in the system. When the pump is turned on, these air pockets can cause surging as the pump tries to push through the air. This issue should resolve on its own as the system runs and the air is removed. If the problem persists, there may be a blockage or malfunction in the system that needs to be addressed.

if you are able to take it out..do so, then put it in a pot with water, turn up 2 a boil...if ur "stat" opens that's good.....if not..bad.....and it should reclose when you let it cool off...

As far as I know this works.

Start the engine cold and make sure you have enough water (cold) in the radiator to see it after the cap has been removed.

Start the engine and let it idle. Put the tip of your finger into the water in the radiator.

After the engine begins to heat up the thermostat's function is to open and allow the water to flow through the block. When this happens the water will suddenly get very warm. If this doesn't happen the Thermostat is either bad or the water pump isn't working.

No they do not; having gravel or not is really the choice of the fish keeper as far as how they want the tank to look. You can certainly leave it bare bottomed as many goldfish keepers do to give the fish more swimming room and easier time cleaning the debris from the bottom of the tank each week.

Well, unless you are a mechanic or an advanced hobby mechanic, I would not attempt it. I have done it along with a partial overhaul. The water pump is located inside the timing chain cover. It requires complete removal of the entire intake system including intake manifolds, removal of the oil pan which includes removing the entire steering system and the front differential just to get to the timing chain cover. Then you get to remove the radiator, fan, power steering pump, and crankshaft pully so you can remove the cover. Once off, you can easily remove the water pump. The job basically requires a complete upper and lower tear down. If you are going to do it, I would strongly recomend doing an overhaul while you are at it (with the exception of messing with the heads and pistons, since that is the only thing left once you get in there). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I wanted to share my pain before someone else got into it. I did complete the job and the car runs nearly new, but it is not a job for the weekend mechanic. I am not a professional, but I consider myself quite advanced and rebuild old motorcycles and cars as a hobby since I was 12, my uncle was a drag racer. Good Luck Scott

On the quad 4 engine the water pump is on the back of the engine. For your application the consensous is that you must pull the timing cover off and insure that the twin cams remain in the same position. Then you remove the exhaust manifold in order to remove the water pump. I got an estimate and the mechanic said he wouldn't touch it for less than $600.

Another site you could log onto is www.Quad4forum.com. These people are quad 4 enthusiates. I hope I have been of service.

First thing that you will need to do is remove the raidiator, making sure to remove the lower water hose from the radiator and all other hoses connected to the radiator.

Next you will need to unbolt your power steering pump and the front mounting bracket and remove all fan belts.

Unbolt the alternator bracket from the engine block and front of the water pump.

Unbolt the fan belt pulley from behind your fan. The best way I have discovered to do this is by placing a screwdriver between one of the bolts and use it as a lever.

You will find 4 10mm sized bolts through the pulley to the water pump.

Once you have unbolted the pulley, you are ready to unbolt the water pump.

You should be able to find the 4 water pump bolts and unbolt the water pump now.

The hard part is to now remove the fan off the old water pump and bolt it onto the new water pump. This is where I'd usually take it to the mechanic and get HIM to remove the fan from the water pump.

Now it is as easy as reversing the previous steps and put it all back together.

Take off your belt. Take off the fan. take off water hoses on pump. Unscrew all bolts on water pump. There are many. Put new pump in the same spot . Put silicone sealer on all of the connecting metal of the new pump. Place the new pump on and bolt it back up again. Wait a while for the silicone to set and dry.

1) Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, then shut it off and drain the coolant.

2) Support the engine with a floor jack and wood, then remove the front engine mount and bracket.

3) Loosen the water pump pulley bolts, then remove the belt and tensioner.

4) Unbolt the water pump and gasket. Remove and discard the bypass hose.

5) Cleanthe water pump mounting bolt threads using a wire wheel and coat them in PTFE thread sealing paste.

6) Reinstall in reverse order using a new water pump and bypass hose.

7) Fill the cooling system with _new_ coolant, then check for leaks.

disconnect battery, drain coolant, remove fan shroud, fan clutch, and water pump pulley. remove water pump, clean mating surface on block. apply RTV sealant to both sides of new gasket, install water pump and torque bolts to proper torque, install pump pulley and torque to proper setting. Remainder of procedure is reverse of removal.

It is possible to remove rusted bolts from an automobile water pump using a product called Liquid Wrench. Spray the solution on the bolts and let sit for a few minutes. If this does not work, wait 8 hours and then use a torch to heat the bolts.

This takes moderate skill and you will want to replace your timing belt and your tensioner at the same time. The reason to replace both of these is that they are prone to failure and you will have them off anyway.

Remove coolant from bottom of radiator petcock. remove shroud and radiator.

remove fan clutch and fan. remove acessory belts. remove timing cover and thermo housing.

you will now see the timing belt going over the idler, cams, water pump and crank pully.

put the #1 piston at top dead center and your two cam pulleys and crank pulley should be at the marks corresponding to the block. mark them loudly anyways so you can see them better. try real hard not to move these three.

loosen tensioner and remove belt. unbolt water pump, cleanup face and install new one.

reverse order assembly. make absolutely sure your cams and crank are in the correct relationship when the belt goes on. It is a good idea to replace the front seal too since you are into it this far.

I left out some minor details but you'll figure it out or you shouldn't be doing this.

On the 2.4L the pump is driven by the timing belt. On the 2.7L it is driven by the timing chain. ON either engine the entire front if the engine has to be taken apart to replace the waterpump.

you best bet from what i hear is to change in throught the passenger wheel well. im about to imbark on this mission my-self too. it seems to me tht you have to take off the pulley's and the alternator and the rest of the pully driven stuff on the front of the engine ( its in sideways so the front of the engine is really the passenger-side). then there is the cover on the front of the engine, looks about 10 bolts, doesnt really seem all tht much trouble. but great cars are theese saturns.

It is a SOB job. There is a plate in front of the fuel pump that has to be removed to get access to the top bolt of the fuel pump. . It has a number of bolts holding the front of the AC compressor and air pump. The Compressor had metric bolts. Get that off and it is not so bad to remove and replace the fuel pump and hoses.

pool pump wiring in what regard? To hard wire or not to hard wire?

My choice would be to NOT hardwire and look at other alternatives to conserving power such as changing the type of pump to a variable speed pump - less draw on your power whilst having the ability for capacity power when you need it for manual vacuuming.

1 Hp is about 746watts. Depending on how effecient your motor is and design of the pump housing, you're looking at 120V at 6.25amps at least. When the motor starts up, the initial load will draw a lot more current. A motor of this size is usually put on a dedicated circuit.

If properly set up with a suitable pump and bladder tank it costs very little for domestic use. No way to quote an exact figure.

Artesian Wells