Drum Brake Hardware Replacement

Tools Required: J 38400 Brake Shoe Spanner and Spring Remover

Removal Procedure:

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

2. Remove the rear wheel and tire.

3. Remove the brake drum.

4. Disengage the adjuster spring hook end from the tab on the adjuster actuator.

5. Remove the straight end of the adjuster spring from the brake shoe.

6. Use J 38400 to remove the universal spring from the brake shoes.

7. Remove the star adjuster.

8. Remove the park brake actuator lever and wave washer from the brake shoe.

9. Clean all of the drum brake system components with denatured alcohol or equivalent.

10. Inspect all of the drum brake system components.

Installation Procedure:

1. Install the park brake actuator lever and wave washer to the brake shoe.

2. Position the hooking center spring section of the universal spring under the tab on the anchor.

3. Install the brake shoe. Position the shoe onto the backing plate.

4. Position the brake shoes and install the universal spring using J 38400 .

5. Use the J 38400 in order to pull up the end of the universal spring, resting the spring on the web of the brake shoe.

6. Use the J 38400 in order to pull the end of the universal spring over until the spring snaps into the slot in the brake shoe.

7. Lube the threads of the star adjuster and Install the star adjuster assembly.

8. Install the straight end of the adjuster spring to the brake shoe.

9. Install the adjuster spring hook end to the tab on the adjuster actuator.

10. Adjust the drum brakes. Refer to Drum Brake Adjustment.

11. Install the brake drum. Refer to Brake Drum Replacement.

12. Install the rear wheel and tire. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.

13. Lower the vehicle and drive it away.

Just did this last night! Open the rear door. From the inside of the door look through the crack between the door and the inside of the tail light assy. There you will see two "star" head screws. You need a star screw driver at leat 6" long to reach them. After removing the two screws come around to the outside and pull the lamp assy from the body. There are two clips holding it to the body and it doesn't come loose easily! After removing the lamp from the body the top bulb unscrews from the lamp assy and pulls out. The replacement bulb # is 3157. .

Straight from the dealer, you want to unscrew the light first, then pull it straight out. It might sound light it is breaking, but it is just the plastic pins rubbing the metal. You may need to use a flat head to pry the light away from the body enough so you can get your fingers back there. Remember pull it straight out, and do not worry, it goes on easier then it comes off.

The 2009 Honda Accord 4 cylinder does not have a belt. It has a chain that should last the life of the engine.

If your car uses VVT(Variable Valve Timing) or adjusts its ignition timing it could cause poor fuel economy, misfires, keep the car from starting. If the car is fuel injected the timing of the injectors is tied in with that too. In short nothing could, if the car manages to keep running it could lead to a blown motor depending on how you drive.

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: White/Yellow

Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Red

Radio Ground Wire: Black

Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black

Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A

Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Yellow/White

Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A

Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″

Front Speakers Location: Doors

Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Green

Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Black

Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Red/Green

Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Black

Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″

Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck

Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Yellow

Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Gray/White

Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red/Yellow

Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White

The answer is going to depend on how much of the exhaust system you want to replace and what kind of exhaust you want to use. The price will vary by a thousand dollars or more depending on what you want to accomplish.

The first thing I'd do is go to a reputable exhaust repair shop and get an estimate on a fully stock system using only the parts that they deem in need of repair. That will give you an idea of what your bottom end will be. Make careful note of the components that they suggest replacing. Then with that info you can do some shopping around and finding out what's available in the aftermarket world that will add some pizzazz to the sound of your vehicle and perhaps increase performance as well.

Just as a reference, the exhaust is broken down into the following major compontents: exhaust manifold (can be replaced with headers), the H or Y pipe which connects the two sides of a V8 equalizing the exhaust pressure leaving both sides of the engine, the catalytic converter, the muffler and the pipes that connect all that along with the associated hangers to connect it to your truck. One popular upgrade that's available is called a Cat-Back Exhaust which basically replaces everything from the Catalytic Converter on back. These come in stainless steel for long life or an aluminized steel that resists rust and typically run from close to $200.00 up to around $500.00 minus the installation labor costs. Many privately owned exhaust shops would be happy to install this for you but of course wouldn't provide a guarantee on the parts.

You might try to Google the word exhaust and see whats out there and also make some calls locally. I hope this gets you started in the right direction.

Good luck !!

If you only have the 1 key fob the programming must be done with a special Dodge tool (DRB), if you have 1 working fob and want to add a second you can do it yourself. With the key on but engine not running Press and hold the unlock button on the working fob for at least 4 seconds but not more than 10 seconds, within the 4-0 seconds press the panic button then release both buttons, the BCM should chime to let you know it is in programming mode, press any button on each fob to be programmed then turn the key off, if 4 fobs have been programmed it wouln't accept any more until erased by the dealer

The 2001 Accord has 3 fuse boxes. The interior boxes are located on the driver's and pasenger side of the dashboard. The underhood box is on the right(passenger) firewall. The fuse you want is a 20A located in the #5 position in the underhood box. There are spare fuses located in the #9 and 10 position that you can substitue. All the covers are labeled(the one you want is labeled "Stop". Use a good light source. Press the two clips to free the cover on the underhood box. Check the bulbs - a transient volatage spike(intermittent short) can blow all of them at once without blowing the fuse. Jim

im posting this because when i looked for help nobody was able to help, so here it goes. to begin with im not sure if this is for an ignition switch, or the tumbler ignition piece, but i had to replace the ignition part as some a-hole had stolen my car and had used a screwdriver most likely to bust the ignition so you can now start it with anything.

on to the fix! i took it to a mechanic, he said it would be 330 to fix. 195 for the part, and labor was the rest. i said screw that, and went to a Honda aftermarket parts dealer in portland, or (autoadventure), and bought one for $165. the guys there are awesome by the way. so from there i was going to take it back to the mechanic for straight labor, but the guys said i could do it. so i did.

its easy, all you need is a screwdriver, a hammer, and a flat head screw driver. you need the screw driver to take off the plastic covering surrounding the ignition, its the piece between the steering wheel and the dash. theres some recessed screws you want to be sure to get or you will break the thing. i think there is a total of 6 or so you need to get. then there are plastic tabs you need to gently undo to get it apart (like those small plastic Easter eggs kinda). from there you can see the ignition assembly in plain sight. from there you notice that there are only 2 screws holding the thing to the steering column.

i was confused at first because it looks like there are 2 rivets holding it in place, but in fact they are screws whose heads have been shaved off in factory. all you need to do is take your hammer and flat head screwdriver, and wedge the screwdriver head in between the lip of the piece and the screw, and bang it towards the counterclockwise direction. this takes some time, and if at first you are scared, don't be. you don't care about that part anyways. you should have already gotten the replacement ignition (tumbler, key hole, and electronics in one solid piece) so you don't need that anyways. after you bang on it for a while, they should give a little bit, so you can basically unscrew them with your fingers. from there it is a quick switch. unplug the electronics from the unit, and plug in the new one, bolt it on and replace the covering and you are golden, and are $200 ahead of the neck punk mechanic who tries to rip you off. hope this helps!

You may not even need to get the complete tumbler and key hole part. Your only problem may be just the ignition wire that connects to the back of the tumbler and is relatively easy to replace. This part may go for about 80$ . I would recommend that you try to replace this part first because it may save you from the trouble of replacing the whole ignition unit which costs about $250(this is if your car starts but does not stay turned on or if your car's power turns off when you are driving). I went through the trouble of taking the whole ignition unit off but just found that it was the ignition wire on my 90 Honda Accord. And if your actual key insertion cylinder is damaged, where you put your key in and turn the car on, then I found that most auto-parts stores Like Kragans or AutoZone have replacement key cylinders with a new set of keys for about $30. Don't replace the tumbler body if you don't have to because again, they are about $250. The Key cylinder should slip out of the body by pushing a little button down that is on the side while the key is turned at the I position. That's all I got for now

Your owner's manual would answer both these questions, if you had one. You like lots of other people seem to have lost your owner's manual. Amazing! The SRS light indicates there is a problem with the Air Bag system. This is not a DIY repair. Serious injury can occur if you are not aware of the dangers. Take it to a dealer for this repair. The Maintenance Required light is reset with the Odometer reset button. Turn ignition key off, hold ODO Reset button in while turning the ignition switch to the on position, do not start. The Maint Req light will rest after 10 seconds. This light is telling you that there is maintenance required, and if you had an owner's manual you could look and see what maintenance item needs looking into. Get an owner's manual. Just tryed this. I used a paper clip.http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=536559&postcount=5

Your dealer should have provided you this on a card.

You need to remove the clock out of the dash by taking a screwdriver or pallet knife to the base of the clock, be careful because you can scratch the plastic. Once removed you'll notice two wire harnesses plugged into the back of it, one for the hazard switch the other for the clock. Remove both plugs and the unit should come free. On the back of the clock you will see the the base of the bulb which either grey or white take a screwdriver to it and turn it in the direction shown in the plastic to unlock. The bulb should then come out. Insert new bulb and make sure it's locked in place, replace plugs and then push the clock unit back into the dash. It should click into place.

If you have the 3.0 V6 it could be the timing belt has failed. The 2.4 4 cyl uses a timing chain which will last the life of the engine. Otherwise the 3.0 and the 2.4 engines need fuel and spark to start and run. You are missing one of those.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.

2. Press the select/reset knob a couple of times until the engine oil life

indicator is showing.

3. Press the select/reset knob for about 10 secs. The engine oil

life and the maintenance item code will blink.

4. Press the select/reset knob for another 5 secs.

The maintenance item code will go away and the engine oil life reading

will reset to 100. Same for Honda Accord 2009

It may be a bad wire in the fuse box under the hood buy the washer fluid container as it was in mine take it of inspect and clean change your taillight bulbs, b/c when your taillights go out, then your dash ligths will go out to tell your tails are out. I had the same problem with mine. The fuse box under the hood on the driver side had corosion from the battery. I had to remove the fuse box and clean it and has worked fine since.

It's called the idiot light.

It means there is a problem.

Check the oil, immediatly, as that the simple problem to fix, otherwise, get it to sears and they can read it for a few bucks. If it's a stupid problem, like a loose housing on the air filter, then you can fix it yourself.

Not for sure, but on my 94 Accord it is located under the driver side dash. use this website (http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_hmr_1.htm) to get an idea what you are looking for and how to get there. The article is very informative but was off on the actual location on my vehicle. Mainly use the photos and look hard under the dash for a similar relay. Also when you find don't bother with trying to buy a new one just open up the relay and resolder any brocken joints, usually just the solder on the main blades is broken. That will fix it.

First disconnet your battery.Carefully pry out the clock out of the middle and there is a screw back there you need to take out ,than two more screw at the bottom of the center cover. Once u take the screws out carefully pull the console out and disconnect the two ac connectors(I had to use a flat-head to get leaverage to loosen), but once that's done there are four more screws holding the radio in the frame. And just do reverse to reinstall

The S light refers to sport mode on the trany. The sport mode changes the shifts slightly in an automatic trans. The car will perform better in s mode in stop and go traffic. The button to change to S mode is located on the shifter.

Start by moving the power steering reservoir out of the way. Disconnect the battery and then remove the wires from the alternator. Take the tension out of the tensioning pulley and remove the belt from the alternator. Remove the bolts from alternator, you may have to take the top mounting bracket off of the engine. The hardest part I found was to get the alternator out after everything was unbolted. My brother-in-law the mechanic came over and advised me to put a floor jack under the motor (use a block of wood to protect the oil pan etc.). Remove the bolt in the engine mount and raise the engine with the floor jack until there is space to bring the alternator out of its hiding place. Bring it straight out from the front of the engine (front being the passenger side of the car. It might be easier to raise the engine and then take out the alternator, but I didn't have the opportunity to try that. But it's definitely easier to put the replacement in with the engine still raised. I spent all day trying to figure it out, after my brother-in-law helped me with the engine jacking, it took about 20 minutes to complete the job.

I've got the V6 and I didn't need to lift the engine, just remove the radiator fan directly in front of the alternator. The fan has 2 screw bolts(10mm) on top, 1 on bottom(which I could just manage to access from the top with a deep socket), unplug the wires and you can lift it out of the way. This gives you enough clearance to remove the alternator (be careful not to ding your radiator though). Also, I didn't relized that the tensioner pulley was a spring-loaded type...I've never seen one till now. Just put a wrench on the middle of the pulley and you can adjust it to move the alternater back in place. Another tip, since you're replacing the alternator, might as well replace the belt too. Good luck. 2hours - not hard, just hard to get to till you figure out what items you need to move out of the way.

If this is the LX or EX (4 cylinder)

1) Disconnect the battery cable (*).

2) Remove the green connector on the back of the alternator and the single wire (to help ensure you don't loose the nut, screw it back on the terminal).

3) Loosen the power steering pump - slip the belt off and then push the pump up out of the way. You do not need to remove the pump.

4) Remove the lower alternator bolt.

5) Loosen the upper alternator bolt.

6) Remove the tension bolt.

7) Slip the belt off the alternator pulley.

8) Remove the upper alternator bolt.

9) Grab hold of the alternator pull it out. You may need to move it up and down and wiggle it slightly to get it out.

Installation is in the reverse order. Be sure to set the proper belt tension on the alternator and power steering pump. Check the belt tension the next time you fill up for gas and adjust if needed.

Total time to R&R the alternator should be under an hour.

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Looking at the alternator with the pulley facing you, the right mounting hole (where the large upper alternator bolt slips into) is a bushing. Carefully take some channel lock pliers and push it in so it's flush. This will help make installing it easier. As you tighten the upper and lower bolts, it will slide this bushing into proper position.

(*) = If your radio has a security code, be sure you know what it is before you pull the battery cables! If you have access to a battery charger, it may not be a bad time to re-charge the battery while you are R&R'ing the alternator. I would suggest that if you do elect to recharge the battery to take the battery out of the car.

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Email me if you have questions; rob@crxownersclub.com

The code in the Glove box is just the serial number to the stereo, It is not the unlock code itself. Call a Honda dealer and give them this number. They should give you the code for free. They did for me.

Hello, Jamison here, It can run (and even start without the key on),, But if it runs continually, There is A problem,, Check the relay, or the temp. sender.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Good luck, Jamison. Not necessarily a problem, if it's the auxilary cooling fan. They can fun a few minutes if it's a hot day (and you've stopped, and there's then no longer any air zipping through to cool the radiator). If it always runs, though, you have a cooling problem. Check coolant level first, then--radiator, hoses, thermostat, etc. Keep an eye on your temp gauge when you drive. If you abuse it, you'll blow a head gasket and a $75 fix is waaay bigger now.