Acura Legend

Two weeks ago I changed out the water pump on my 1989 Acura Legend Coupe LS.

You will need to remove the Negative battery cable form battery, remove the plastic covers for the alternator belt, put the car on jackstands, put a wooden block on your floor jack to support the engine under the oil pan. Loosen and remove thge right hand side motor mount, using a 10 mm socket, ratchet, and long extension remove the bolts securing the cruse control to right side fenderwall. Remove plastic under the bumber pan and right side inner fenderwell cover. Unplug alternator wiring and remove cable, remove alternator, loosen and remove A/C compressor belt. Remove radiator recovery tank in that area. Remove bolts securing power steering pump, you should reposition the pump as needed to access what you need to get at, with the hoses still connected. Using a minimum of a good 1/2" drive inpact wrench and six point impact socket remove the crankshaft damper bolt. Do not remember the socket size, but think it was 19mm. At this point you will need to remove three flat metal covers from the right camshaft, left camshaft and one lower one between these two. DO NOT REMOVE THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER Bolt. It looks like a six sided shaft protruding thru the lower middle cover, this will need to be loosened once the timing marks are right, but that is later on. You will need to slightly raise the engine and lower it, using the floor jack, as need to get to the 10mm head bolts. As there are a lot of them, get put in plastic bags, sorted by cover. BE VERY CAREFUL.L NOT TO DAMAGE your oil pan, it is aluminum. .There are odles of 10mm bolts, get ready for some skinned hands. Take your time and use a small mirror to locate them all. You will need to remove the oil dipstick and it's tube that goes into the engine block, single samll bolt and it pulls out. Plug the opening so nothing gets in you oil pan. After the three covers are taken off, reinstall the crankshaft damper and get you need to align the timing marks on both camshafts and the crank according to the manual. You will need a helper to make sure you are Top Dead Center on compression on the number 1 cylinder. That is the cylinder closes to passenger side fender on the firewall side of engine. Once the three mark are correct you can loosen the belt tensioner, remove belt and water pump. I may have forgtten some steps but this gives you a idea. It took me three weekends about 8 hr days. Make sure to replace the water pump with an original one from Japan. About $40 more than Ameriacn replacements. 230,000 miles on my Legend, second timing belt and firts water pump replacement. Good Luck

there isn't any more power and better gas milage.

yes...i have 20x8.5's on my 02' RL with 225 or 235/35/20 tires. I had to roll my rear fenders and put some cheap spring spacers on the rear but it works great. I probably wouldn't have had to roll the fenders if they werent 8.5" wide. hope this helps

the EGR valve is just under the distributor cap

yes, it is located under the dash. it's about 2 1/2"x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" '

Turn off alarm with ignition key in the driver's door.

This is not programable...you need to go to the dealer and they can order one for you to match your electronic module in your car.

YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE DOOR PANEL OFF AND THEM REMOVE THE SPEAKERS

You don't need to cut the wires at all, I just got mine installed in 5 minutes with the adapter speaker plug, you can get them from Amazon or eBay for 16 bucks. You save a lot of time and you don't mess up the wire system of your car with the black tape and stuff.

There are 2 of them.One on each side of the engine.

must lower the exhaust system

take it to your mechanic so he can run a diagnostic.

You will need to call the dealer and provide the id # If your lucky the previous owner may have written it down in the manuel near the radio section. Mine was.

usually the code is the last four numbers of the serial number

I think it is the same as my 98 and you put a wrench on the bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley and push away from the belt.

Take a look at this website: http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/stereoremovalAcuraLegend91_96P.htm I've used this company twice to repair my amps. They are very good. Norm

There is a switch on the brake pedal that send a signal when you touch the brakes to put the car into gear. Make sure that is working. If it is there is a solinoid on the shifter that could be bad.

Fuse box area top right, pull out cover wall.

Interference engine

same as the front brakes they r both disc brakes

The Anti-Theft code that is associated with the "Theft Deterrent System" is a 5-digit code located on the underside of the ashtray.

It's on the front valve cover. The trick is you have to first remove the "breather chamber" by removing the 2 bolts on top. With the breather chamber cover off, you'll see the PCV valve screwed into the valve cover.

More likely than not you have blown a head gasket or cracked a head. Major repair.

I do believe it is the same body style and most things should transfer over to the 1993. It may have some electrical differences but not many. You can also transfer parts from a 1994 Acura Legend.

most likely flooding the cylinders due to a bad temp sensor. or you have an elec problem and the starter doesn't engage.... you didn't specify.

A 1990 (1987-1990 Gen1) Acura, 2.7ltr-v6 has a timing belt, about ~6 foot long, which drives the two (SOHC-TwinCam) cams (1 per head), and the water pump, and also has a tension pulley, which is adjustable via an external bolt on the lower TB/WP cover. If your Acura has over 60k on the current belt, or you don't know the mileage on the belt, it's time to change the belt and the water pump, and inspect the tension pulley and spring. I have personally changed both of these on a '90 model, and it takes 2 full days of labor, as you have to remove the alternator, power steering pump and hose, VAC hoses, much electrical, 2 upper TB/Cam covers, cruse control cable and 1 lower TB/WP cover, just to access the TB and WP. I order to get the lower TB/WP cover out the bottom, the oil cooler/oil filter holder must also be removed (3 bolts / 2 water hoses). This process is not for the weekend mechanic, as getting the belt back to the compression side of TDC is a real task, but if performed properly, the car will start without an issue. The space provide between the front of the V6 and the wheel well is very limited, and without the correct tools, add many hours of labor. Also, the 19mm crank bolt, which hold the main pulley to the crank make for an extra few hours, as the torque is at or above 123 lbs (mine was over 200 lbs), and after many years of service, it takes 3/4" - 1" drive wrenches and impact sockets to remove. Don't even try 3/8" or 1/2" tools for the crank bolt, as that will only add a trip to the store for replacement and upgrade of tools. Happy motoring.