Buick Roadmaster

On the the climate control panel there is are 3 buttons, one says econ, the next looks like your windshield and the next one is square, this is the rear window defrost.

Thermostat stuck open or heater core clogged. Bad radiator cap or small hole in cooling system.

I drive a '95 Roadmaster with the 350 Chevy LS-1. Don't know the HP numbers but it will burn up a set of rear tires in 30 days. From 0-60 in 6.7 sec, it will embarrass any Crown Vic. Factory governed to 110mph because suspension is tuned for luxury. With the optional trailer towing package, it will tow 7,000 pounds at 70mph all day without breaking a sweat. Only '94-'96 Roadmasters have the LS-1, avoid the rest. Awesome ride! Ted In Bama The engine is an LT1, not an LS1. The LT1 is what is referred to as the Gen II, small block chevy, while the LS1 is an all-new version of the corporate small-block, usually referred to as the Gen III. Now, they are up to a Gen V version of this all-new engine, while the Gen II (LT1) basks in no-man's land. It was a good upgrade, but had some serious flaws, not the least of which is the notorious Optispark distributor. I have been fortunate enough to have an excellent example of the optispark in my '95 Roadmaster Wagon, but I know of some other folks not quite so fortunate. The LT1 in the Roadmaster is factory rated at 265bhp, compared to 280bhp for the same engine in the Corvette. GM's official line is that the difference is due to a more restrictive exhaust manifold in the Buick. The LT1 is also one of the more difficult engines to work on that has come out of GM in the recent past, requiring lots of time for such simple maintenance procedures as changing the spark plugs and plug wires. david in TN

On a 1992 it is on the upper left side of the firewall when faceing the motor. Two little square black boxes...1 for Air/con and other for fuel pump. Check part #s...should be the same so interchange to test....Rick

where is horn relay on 1995 buick roadmaster

pcv is located on the engine valve cover will have a black rubber hose attached to it

The 1970 version comes in around 360. The version in the 90's, about 340, or so, just the motor. However, it has a lot more smog, and other accessories, that bring it in well over 400.

Replace the pull=down switch to fix.

Open the driver's side door...there's a small door on the side of the dashboard that opens up. The fuses are inside there. There is also a fuse box under the hood on the passenger side at the top of the firewall so you could check there, too, for the trunk release but it should be on the fuse box inside the driver's door.

Roadmaster typically offers various endorsements for commercial driver's licenses (CDLs), such as those for tankers, double/triple trailers, and hazardous materials. However, the availability of specific endorsements may vary by location and program. It's best to check directly with Roadmaster or their website for the most accurate and up-to-date information on the endorsements they provide.

Under the vehicle, passenger side, 2 feet in front of the rear tire, just inside the frame.

I would guess that the thermostat is not opening at the proper temperature. Once it does open proper circulation brings it down to the correct operating temperature. I think it should be replaced.

It's the Flow Rate

Inspect the driveshaft, look for dents, undercoating or buildup, or driveshaft or companion flange out of balance, check for missing weights on shaft. Try removing driveshaft and reinstalling 180 degrees different.

The first step is to find a single Phillips screw hidden in the carpet on the lower rear side of the panel. It is approx 5 inches in and 4 inches up. Remove it. Next, peel each end of the grab handle inward to reveal a single large Phillips screw (1 per side). Remove the screws. Next remove the single screw behind the interior door handle and remove the door handle surround over the hadle itself. the rest of the fasteners are snap type. Start at the bottom using the special door fastner tool to release. You can just pull forcefully, but it usually breaks these fasteners. Once the door is only hanging from the top strip, remove all elecrical connections. Next roll down the window and pull upward on the panel to release it from the lower window strip. Installation is reverse of removal.

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is that 'rest' or 'reset'? If by 'rest' you mean to give the AC unit a rest, that's a good idea, all roadmasters from 92-96, when you start the car, if the ventilation was switched on last time, the AC comes on by default, even if you had the heat on to 75f say. This sucks the gas. When you start your roadmaster, either hit the 'econ' button quickly to turn the ac off, or press the 'off' button before you turn your engine off. The next time you start it, the ventilation will be off.

If you mean reset, well, I changed my battery, and the ventilation panel readout seemed to cycle though 32f to -20f or so a few times, then started. id say that reset it!!!!!

Your battery might be dead or very close to dead. If the interior lights come on but go dim when you try to start then the battery is probably dead. Otherwise, get a new starter.

1 of 2 things or both, alignment or balance.

The 70, version. 160, to 180. The 90's version, 180, to 210.

Yes, you need GM-style fuel quick disconnect tools. One size fits the outlet line, another size fits the return line. I got mine at Advance Auto parts. Do not get the combination tool with both sizes on the same tool. This will work on a GM truck, but not on a car. Don't know why, it just is.

You will not find it on the engine. It is mounted in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the engine. Look and you will find it.

No! Thermostat.

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SIMPLE. Pull the rubber boot/air connector off the side of the Shock. The problem with the system is a small solenoid valve on the compressor. Easiest thing to do .................... JUNK YARD replacement