Chevy Camaro RS

Depends on what you mean by "bubble" Caprice...

It is simple....as long as you have the right one.....on my 350 the ignition coil was located inside the distributer cap, easy enough, you just take off the 2 bolts and unplug

Its inside the fuel tank. You can either drop the tank and pull it out or cut a hole through the back deck lid. That's what i would do.

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange

Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black

Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray

Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Light Brown

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4″ x 6″

Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green

Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″

Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

Hope this helped!

No. 2 different body styles.

How to bypass security system on 1990 Chevy camaro

This is for my 95 Z, so I'm not sure about other bolt/nut sizes.

1) Remove accessory drive belt ("fan belt")

2) disconnect battery

3) Remove alternator (13mm and 15mm) - don't forget to disconnect the electrical connection underneath

4) I removed the battery altogether (more room later)

5) loosen the 16mm (that is right 16mm) flare nut on the "high pressure" side of the steering pump... THIS WAS A PITA

6) pull back the hose clamp on the low pressure side

7) remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the steering pump to the block (1 and 7 o'clock)... Remove w/ socket and short extension THRU the holes in the pulley.

8) Take steering pump out

9) swap the pulley from your old steering pump to the new one... (I did this at the autoparts store w/ their help).. PITA too... Probably just about as easy to buy a new pulley ($20).

10) Reverse process to reinstall.

11) Top off steering fluid... start car/off, start car/off, etc refilling steering fluid as necessary

12) lots of left/right wheel turns etc to make sure there is no air in the lines (ie bleeding system).

13) Enjoy the fruits of your labor

loosen the 16mm "flare nut" before you loosen the 10mm bolts securing the pump to the block... there is NO room in there, and it SUCKED big time to get that bad boy off... (putting it on wasn't as bad).

this is the code (best-car ever)

You have a problem in one of two places most likely. The switches contacts get worn most often on the driver side and the switch may need replaced or the motor in the door may need replaced. You would have to pull the door panel off and sometimes these motors are difficult to get out. They usually run 40 to 50 dollars at auto zone. If none of these is the problem try a hammer to the window (just kidding).

the wire harness between the doors/chassis always brakes or craks from opening/closing the doors

I found this link with p/n's and pictures along with instructions that appear to be generic to all types of vehicles.

tyclone.com

I've had this problem on a couple of old cars. Believe it or not, my boyfriend simply poured rubbing alcohol on the switch (the one that makes the window go up and down) and the windows worked again. He said it cleaned out the "schmutz." whatever, it worked - and it's a cheap thing to try! No need to remove panels or anything else. You can pry up the switch first and hold it away from the door while pouring if you don't want to spoil the leather or fabric.

On most ford or mercury models if you don't use the window often it will stop working. so all you have to do is guess about were you think the window motor is located and hit the door fairly hard with your hand and it should start working. I used to work at a body shop and I saved probably 100 people money with that little trick.

Hate to say it, but the most likely cause us a worn motor. It will kick the breaker off repeatedly. Remedy is not for the failt of heart, but entirely within the perview of weekend mechanics. Replace the drive motor (and regulator, probably). Get lotsa beer and some sympathetic help.

Its probably your window motor. Too hard for the average person to replace- see a mechanic!

I found mine ('90 626) started shuddering. Obviously a lube problem, my mechanic suggested Graphite Powder. Didn't work. Mechanical Oil worked for less than a week.

what worked was....

ARMOR ALL!!!!!

Brilliant. Slides like a dream for months!

I don't see this response: I spent a few hours learning the hard way that there is, on some cars, a children's window lock switch in the drivers compartment that cuts off power to the rear windows. You don't say which window don't function or if it will roll up. So - if it is off - you can't roll the back windows. RE: 1988 Ford WAgon

The fuel pump is down in the gas tank. Remove the tank and you will see where the fuel pump is plugged in. Just remove the bolts and unplug everything and reverse the procedure with your new pump.

take the bolt out that holds it to the engine and it will come off.

The 1992 Chevrolet Camaro turn signal flasher unit can be found beneath the drivers side dashboard. The turn signal flasher unit will be above the gas pedal.

is your car not starting but turning check for sparks if no sparks in any of the spark plug wires you have a bad crank shaft position sensor.

well everything works fine now. but the thing that links up to the ODB2 doesn't read out. still not sure what the hell is wrong with that. we found the problem we were having was platinum spark plugs causing really bad misfiring. changed them back to the original ones and now runs smooth.

Pull out the transmission dipstick and put the fluid in there. There are special funnels available for this purpose.

The camaro was not "invented." It was created by Chevrolet and GM back in 1966 as a 1967 model. The idea was started long before that in 1964 or around that time.

I believe there are 5 bolts (7mm) along the top of the dash by the windshield.

The gauge cluster needs to come out along with the center council. there are 5 more

bolts on the drivers side a few behind the gauge cluster a few on the bottom of the

dash on or two will be bigger like 13 mm or so. there are 4 in the center behind the air/heat/fan control. Then there are about 5 on the pass side close to the same as the drivers side. when all the bolts are out your not even half way done. there are about 4 plastic post with locking clips that need to be removed. Then let the fun begin. There is about 15 looms that need to be removed. clips exc. Have fun.

rs is base model, v-6s now days, 305cid back in the day

93-02: the rs has 200 hp and the z28 has 305 hp.... i think you've got it from here

Heh... sounds like another victim of the VATS antitheft system. Try to crank it and look at your instrument panel. See if the security light comes on. That would be the antitheft system. Those cars are pretty bad for the connections in the ignition cylinder wearing out after a lot of use. Basically the resistor value in the key (you can't miss the chip) has to match up with the value required by the system to start the car. Sometimes the contacts in the ignition cylinder become worn out and an incorrect reading of the resistance is sent. Incorrect resistance = no crank. Also, one of the wires that connect to the ignition cylinder could be broken off and you wouldn't know it. Check them out. Some people measure the resistance of the chip in their key and buy a resistor from radio shack and wire it in on the circuit side of the connector.

check the engine coil first its only a 20 dollar part if still no spark 9 out of ten times its the distributor ive replaced mine twice make sure u have the engine at TDC and not the compression stroke before removing the distributor

You may also want to check the ignition control module. It is located under the distributor cap and the base of the distributor. There are two plugs to disconnect and two small screws that hold it to the base. It is a cheap part, and much cheaper than tearing through the VATS stuff. Replace the module and pray like heck it works.

sure if you wire it that way. it wont hurt anything

Sounds like it is equipped with an open differential.

If you are using the stock engine operated fuel pump generally no additional pressure regulation is needed. If you have a high performance electric fuel pump that does not have an integral pressure regulator then one should be added as flooding and poor engine operation could be the result.

Additional answer

If you're interested, the word you used in your question 'carborated' should really be 'carburetted' because the engine type you refer to is one that uses a carburettor rather than fuel injection.

10 degrees before TDC

located on the drivers side, slightly ahead of the rear tire. its a cyllinder with lines coming from both ends. you'll need to jack and stand up the rear.

ok....replace it