Chevy Camaro

See the sticker on the car.

For 2008: "... the Equinox engine (and that of its twin, the Pontiac Torrent) is made in China. The car's sticker notes that 55 percent of its parts are from the United States and Canada, 20 percent from Japan, 15 percent from China, and the rest from elsewhere."

Details: The engine is built at Shanghai General Motors" (from China).

It uses a five-speed automatic transmission made in Japan by Aisin Seiki. The parts are assembled at a factory in Ingersoll, Ontario, a joint venture between GM and Suzuki.

100% made overseas: "GM also disclosed it will start importing vehicles made in China in 2011" , but not a very high number.

Sources: N.Y. Times 3-25-08 (Business/World)

(no www) economicpopulist.org 05/09/09

Without codes or more info all of this would just be a guess. If you are certain that the fuel pump is ok and that the car is getting fuel to the injectors you might try a new Ignition Control Module and maybe some coils. I don't know what's been done to it but are the plug wires ran correctly? The coils fire 1-4-6-3-2-5 from left to right. The back side of the engine is 1-3-5 and the front 2-4-6 from left to right.

Will it bolt in? No. But anything will fit with fabrication and money.

If you do it won't be a camaro anymore....

The 2012 Chevrolet Camaro has 42.4 in. of front leg room.

That is best left to a professional that is certified. There is no margin for error as someone could be seriously hurt.

if your trying to fix the oil leak the oil pan gasket isn't going to do it our 3800 has leaked oil since is was new dealer put a new pan gasket in it about 4 times the pan gets warped and leaks again with in a few weeks

Begin by removing the fuel pump fuse from the fuse panel. It should be a blue 15amp fuse. The fuse panel is inside your car, to the left of the steering column. Once removed, start the engine. After the engine fails to start (i.e. it stalls on you) don't worry, it just means there is no fuel going to the engine, so the engine is going to die. Attempt starting the car at least three more times and if the car doesn't start, then the fuel pressure has been released successfully. Make sure you turn the ignition to the OFF position before continuing. Now locate your fuel filter, it will be along the fire wall. It is a big cylinder with hoses on the top and bottom. Using an old towel or large rag to absorb all of the extra fuel, loosen the hose clamps and remove the filter and the hoses. You may also want to check the hoses at this point to see if they are worn or deteriorating. If they are hard, you need to replace them. The hose on the bottom will be attached to another hose with a bracket, remove the hose and replace later.

Replace the fuel filter with a new high-pressure fuel filter in the correct direction and reinstall the hoses in the reverse steps. Put back the fuel pump fuse. Start the engine and check for leaks. Crank the starter to put fuel pressure back into the car as you did to release it.

DONT WORRY IF YOUR CAR DOESNT START THE FIRST TIME. It's not supposed to. It will take a few tries to get the fuel pressure back up. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, normal is around 30 +/- 3 psi.

I was unable to locate the fuse that will cut the fuel pressure. With the car turned off i went under the car, the filter is located behind the driver seat under the car. I didnt need any tools, i just pulled hoses out and reconected the new one. Be careful, about a cup or so of fuel poured out. The car started inmediatly.

on an automatic transmission 5-6 quarts and on manual tranny 2 1/2 - 3

Assuming you have a V8 (5.0 or 5.7,TPI or TBI) its as simple as taking all the oil pan bolts off and pulling the pan off. Should be the same on a V6.

Ok. In 67, 68, and 69, Chevy offered 4 basic packages for the camaro. The plain camaro, the SS, or super sport, the rs, or rally sport, and the Z/28. The Z/28, was the only "package specific" model. Meaning that there were only one drive train combination available. No variables. The DZ 302, 4 speed, and a 12 bolt rear end. (spoilers, the runway stripes, and cowl hood were all optional) The super sport package, for camaro, anyway, pretty much stood alone. You were limited to a v-8 only, ( the 6 cylinder was available in the plain model) and usually included a "bumble bee" stripe around the nose, rally wheels, and a floor shifter. Back in the late 60's, car manufacturers used the racing scene to promote sales. Usually drag racing. However, with all the comotion caused by the Ford/Ferrari wars on the road coarse, Chevy was forced to build, and unleash the Z/28, on Shelby's cobra's. Rally/road type racing, was often run on the little streets of European towns, that were nothing more than a wide spot in the road, and depended upon the revenue generated by these races. So, they were held rain, or shine, night, or day. And, they were economically challenged, so, the roads were rough, and usually comming apart. Which meant flying debris from the car in front. Which would break the headlights out of the rear car. The roads over there had no street lights. So, to race and win, you had to keep your headlamps in tact. If you notice old pictures of sports cars racing, you weill often see black tape on the headlights, in a X. That was to keep them together if they broke. What Chevy did was to put a cover over the lights, that would slide open when the lights are turned on. To protect, and preserve the lights. That also required moving the blinker lamps down from the grill, to the lower velance. And, they also installed a complete red lense in the rear, and moved the backup lights to the rear lower velance, as well. This package was best suited to combine with the Z/28 package for the SCCA/CanAm circuit. Yes, the Z/28 was designd for road racing. Not drag racing. Anyway, the changed blacks out the entire front grill, and gives the camaro an entirely different look, from the front.

If you are referring to the low pressure valve for charging the air, I found mine (1988 pickup) somewhat deep in the lower front left of the engine. The low and high pressure valves on my pickup were very close to each other and the low pressure valve points inward (toward the driver). There is about 2" of clearance above the valve port which makes it immensely frustrating to charge, especially with a R134a conversion kit. The conversion adapter cuts your clearance down to about 1", and almost all recharge cans have a hose so short you can't even turn the can upside down or shake it. Plus, everything around the port gets hot enough to burn your fingers when the engine is running. I found a R134a extension hose at Auto Works but it didn't work with the conversion nipple, the freon wouldn't go through. I finally located a R12/134a angled converter from Napa Auto Parts for around $7 bucks, but I noticed the R12 screw on doesn't have a pin in it to open the valve. Apparently you have to remove the valve core stem on the port. I can't find any article on the web that says yes or no on that, and nobody at any auto store knew either. I bought a valve core removal tool at Napa just in case also and am going to try both ways tonight. Going on my 2nd week attempting to charge the air. What a nightmare.....at least its been under 90 degress out lately. Hot and Burned

6 1/2 " on both door and rear deck. you Can look up any car speaker size at CrutchField.com

350 cid V8

yes the only option for a v8 on those cars is a 350 but they were the lt1 from 93 to 97 in 98 to 2002 they were ls1 the ls1 is actually a 347 i do believe but they still called it a 350 but who cares awesome engine now if your talking taking an older 350 now your gonna run into problems no that it wont bolt in but if your running a carburetor then your going to have clearance issues with the cowl and none of those engines had a distributor on the back of the engine the lt1 ran a optispark which was mounted between the water pump and the harmonic balancer and the ls1 ran a direct ignition system with that being said everything in those cars were computer controlled except the 1993 automatic trans now where your going to run into problems is any Chevy 350 will bolt to your crossmember up till 1997 where they still used the same engine mounting style if your going from v-6 to v-8 you just have to swap the mounting pads to easy if you going to a ls1 in a non ls1 pre 1998 camaro then life will be easier to get the k member out of a 98 or newer since the engine is a whole new breed hope that helps

How do you remove the headlight assembly on a 2001 camaro?"

mine

if you have the Bose speaker system your looking at 3 6.5"... one in each door and one hidden in a panel in the trunk

Whoia, whoa, whoa. Why not answer the question?

The 'speed limiter' (to avoid more BS arguements) IS in the computer but reads the VSS from the speedo. On my 86 and my 89, I simply put a switch in series with the VSS and open the connection when I want to calibrate my speedometer at higher speeds.

If the switch is left open too long then you will get a computer error for a VSS failure. Once the switch is reset, the error should clear.

mp

It may have a rev limiter or fuel shut off, but it has no governor. It will be computer controlled.

I just want to say that the first answer is incorrect.. i personally own a 3rd gen camaro rs.. and there is deffinitly no rev limiter.. and no fuel cut off.. the car is governed at 115mph. THis is for a stock 1989 rs 305tbi camaro

His question was, "How do you remove the Governor on 92 RS Camaro?" I stated it had no governor. I stand behind that answer. This car does not have a governor. The speed is controlled by the computer by way of input from the speed sensor. The computer then limits the speed by way of either a rev limiter or a fuel shut off. How else do you think the speed is regulated? The point is that there is no governor as I stated. You say the speed is governed, implying it has a governor. It does not have a governor! A governor in automobiule terms is a totally different device than a computer. The way around this is to connect an on/off switch to the speed sensor wire going to the ECU. By breaking the circuit of the speed sensor to the ECU, the computer will no longer regulate speed. The check engine light will come on and the cruise will not work when this is done. Turning the switch to the on position will restore input to the computer from the sensor and the cruise will work again. The check engine light will go out after a couple of driving cycles.

It's not a governer it is computer controlled. It just backs off at 115. I thought about changing this but honestly I don't need to go more than 115 on the highway. It is kind of a shame though seeing as I still had half a pedal to put to the floor. Well if its computer controlled to shut off at 115 then its a governer. Yes you can bypass this by simply pulling the ecu fuse and let the car reach its designed limit. Your service engine light will come on and your fuel milage will go to crap after about 15 minutes of doing this, so be sure and put the fuse back in after the joy ride.

The governor is controlled by the ecu which is the computer brain. The only way to remove it is to reprogram it. This is very easy. Just buy you a chip for your exact year, make, model, and engine size. After you get it just install it into your engine ecu.

put it on the plug

12. one intake and one exhaust valve for ea. cylinder. The 3.8 is a V6 engine.

Ft

At the front and rear turn signal lights. The turn signal flasher relay is located, RIGHT of steering column, mounted to bottom of instrument panel carrier. The Hazard flasher relay is located LEFT of steering column, mounted to bottom of instrument panel carrier

round silver relay can the size of a quarter mounted in a socket right on the main fuse block under the dash beside the steering column. how do you replace the turn signal flasher on a 2000 maxima