Chevy Camaro

Drain the radiator into a container. Remove the upper radiator hose at the engine end. there is 2 bolts in the housing that hold the thermostat. Remove them and the thermostat and clean both surfaces. Install the new thermostat and housing. Install the upper hose and top off the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water.

Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader. Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader.

Yes

The 1993 Chevy Camaro starter can be found on the right hand side of the engine. You can follow the positive at three cable directly to the starter.

5 x 4.75" or 5 x 120.65 mm

i need to know where the fan relay is and what it looks like The fan relay is located on the driver side on the firewall. It should be shapes like a oval cylinder. You should get one first. When you look at the new one it should has a diagram on the top of it. Match that diagram to the one the firewall. I believe there is three different relays shape the same side by side. Just match up the diagram.

no it will not fit at all

its in our DNA

Look in your owners manual if you still have it and if you don't go see your Chevy parts man and he can help you out.

295hp/300lbft tq

the library should have a shop manual for this vehicle, you can make copies of the right sections :)

To the right of the thermostat housing

yes

Your going to have problems with that, but, yes, it can be done. Let me share a bit of me experience with you. Any sub frame, unibody, whatever you want to call them, has a week spot in the middle of the car. A full frame car is needed to launch out of the hole. When your car is still, that is one thing. However, you want to put a torque monster in the front of yours, and when you rev that motor up, the torque wants to twist the front of the car. The back end, however, will remain on the earth, thus staying straight. When the front twists, and rear does not, the weak spot, the center of ther car, will give. Results. The doors will cease to close. The windshield will pop out, ect. So frame connectors are a must. Those will bring up the need for a traction device of some sort. Ladder bars, four link, whatever. While your doing all of this chasis work, you might as well tub the rear, thus "backhalfing" the car. You will have to also purchase, or fabricate a tube frame for the front end, as there isn't much room, or support for a rat motor. Headders will be yet another story, and you will probably have to modify the floor boards to fit in a TH400, or whatever trans you decide on. Total mods: around $10,000. Then, the car will only be worth maybe 4, or 5. Better off to pick up something a little more "friendly" to the proiject. Running that much motor you could get away with an older Chevelle, which already has a full frame, came with thast motor, and have not quite yet, realized the appreciation of the Camaro's, and nova's. But, I would never tell a hot rodder something couldn't be done..............Chuck.

the 98-02 have different, front fenders, hood, front clip and headlights, there are two more brackets on the 98-02 camaros for the front clip, the other peices bolt right up and the rest of the car is the same body wise

The gas tank on the 2013 Chevrolet Camaro holds 19.0 gal..

15 dollar vehicle spacific repair manual at most parts stores

from 1993-2002 the ss is faster. they have the same engine as the z28, but minor upgrades, such as the ram air hood, and cold air intake, etc...

The torque rating for your stock 1968 Camaro 327 cubic inch engine is 235 pounds at 3000 RPMs. The torque rating at 3500 RPMs is 255 pounds.

The VIN number for the car will identify the motor.

"The security resistor on your key may be dirty or dead. Try a new key from GM. It will come programmed right from the dealer.

Another possibility is that your ignition key also has a resistor in it. That can only mean that there is a passkey system such as the one used in a 1994 Buick Regal Custom. When the passkey system fails, it costs about $350 to replace. However, for a Camaro, it's worth the money. Take it to a garage to test the system."

I own a 1991 Camaro that has the passkey, and I trip it accidentally a lot. When this is done, go under the dash and there is a brown/black/purple wire with a black connector. Unplug this, then plug it back in and the system is reset and the car should start.

behind the cigarette lighter...just pull(gently)off the driver's side panel that's to the left of the cigarette lighter and you can stick your fingers in there and pull it out. It's called a combination flasher.

Most 90's era vehicle had the turn signal flashed located at/in the fuse box - under the dash on the drivers side...

Basic camaro 3 speed manuel on column with vinyl top and radio was 2,700 out the door.