Chevy Express

Open the hood and locate L-shaped pins at the corners of the headlights.Unlock pins by turning a quarter turn and pull pins upward.Headlight assembly can then be removed and bulbs replaced.

It is spelled torque.

Sometimes the fuel pressure will drain down overnight and not build up quickly enough when you turn the key. Next time that happens, turn the key off completely. Let it sit for about 10 seconds, turn the key to ON for a couple seconds, THEN try to start it. In general, most people don't consider it enough of a problem to find and replace the affected parts. BTW, it would probably be either the fuel pump or the pressure regulator. First question to you is, does it do it when it is real cold/ warm outside? Does it try to turn over or does it just click? If it is just clicking then you prob have a bad cell in your starter. You can have your starter check I think at most auto stores. I had a van that did this, and changed the starter now it is just fine. Hope this helps.

Before servicing the fuel filter or any other component in the fuel system, run the vehicle and figure out in the fuse box which fuse it the fuel pump fuse, remove the fuse with the vehicle running. this will reduce pressure in fuel system with less fuel lost during service. Assuming the fuel filter is external, there should be a rubber inlet fuel line and also a rubber exit line. the filter should be marked inlet and exit. remove the inlet line first. now remove the exit line. the lines should clip over a lip on the filter so just pry the part of the line that hooks onto the lip lightly over the lip and off. then remove the bracket or hardware holding the filter in place. place new filter in holder or bracket. place lines back on filter. place fuse for fuel filter back in specified location. cycle the key on and off for about 2-5 minutes to get the fuel pump to put proper pressure back in the fuel system. run the vehicle and enjoy the peace of mind knowing you replaced your own fuel filter!

Fast Idle could be a sign of a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or a bad Idle Air Control... I took the IAC out of my Caravan yesterday, I put a new IAC in it, and the reason I took it out yesterday was cause sometimes cleaning it helped the engine run better... and I also have a 92 Dodge Spirit with the same Throttle Body set up, so I adjusted the Valve on the IAC to match what the car has, and it made the van sound soooo quiet, could barely hear it, it did Idle really high until I adjusted that simple valve, your prob might be TPS or IAC... there are digital Ohm meters to check the TPS and stuff but try adjusting the IAC, it worked for me and calmed it down but it might be more serious for you then adjusting a valve. Adjusting it could be something to do since it wont cost you a thing before you go spending money on a TPS, IAC or anything else. Or was you asking how to make the vehicle idle faster?

If the check engine light is on... you might have an open circuit somewhere. Pre-1996 vehicles are not as easy to plug in and read as the OBDII cars.

You can try going to your local auto parts supply store and borrowing their diagnostic OBD code scanner. If there is a problem it will probably not be able to retrieve any codes. If you get codes then you will have a couple of places to start troubleshooting from. After my Chevy van stopped running completely, I pulled the ECM and inspected the greenboards for damage. Sure enough, mine had a burned out spot. I replaced the whole ECM for less than $300. It had to be reprogramed to my vehicle's specific VIN number and I had to retain the knock sensor and put it back on the ECM before I installed the new one. When you buy new parts ask questions. Sometimes the sexual intellectuals at the parts counter won't tell you important information unless you ask.

You might have a faulty oxygen sensor. Typically, when cold, the engine management system operates in "open loop" mode ignoring feedback from oxygen sensors because they don't work properly until they heat up to a specific temperature range. Once the sensors heat up, the computer goes into "closed loop" mode using the signal from the oxygen sensors to help adjust the air/fuel mixture. If one or more sensors are faulty, the fuel mixture may be incorrect and cause a poor running condition.

Another possibility is that you have a running problem which is noticeable when the engine is turning slowly. Air metering, EGR system, and mechanical engine problems are your most likely suspects here. When the engine is cold, the computer raises the idle speed of the engine to warm it up faster and to prevent stalling which masks the problem until warmup occurs.

== == -you might also have a bad distributer or a bad catalytic converter or muffler

The DRL module is a grey box with a small circuit board inside. The module is electrically taped to the main wiring harness right next to the fuse box located next to the emergency brake on the driver's side of the vehicle. The DRL relay is located a little lower to the right of the fusebox on the driver's side near the emergency brake. Please be aware if your DRL do not work (as mine have not for years), I have troubleshot the DRL module at a cost of $65 for replacement, and I have troubleshot the DRL relay. Also, I have troubleshot the diodes and fuses and continue to have no success with DRL on my vehicle. Anyone with any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

1995 Chevrolet Astro EGR Maintenance Procedure

EGR solenoid does not function properly due to carbon build-up inside the EGR chamber. No need to purchase new EGR, regular maintenance when needed will suffice.

Common vehicle symptom is rough idling and engine stalling; check engine flash code 32 (OBD1) - EGR ciruit fault.

EGR only turns on (allows exhaust fumes to mix with intake charge) when engine is warmed up or when reaches optimal operating temperature. EGR is off on 'P' Parking and 'N' Neutral positions when idling and when cold.

Tools:

-Small and regular flathead screw driver

-2mm flathead screw driver

-1/2" driver ratchet

-1 ft extension, 1/2" driver socket connector bar

-adjustable 1/2" driver socket connector

-10mm socket (1/2" socket)

-brake cleaner

-shop towels

-oil bucket or any low-wide open bucket/cardboard box

-wire tooth brush

EGR Removal Procedure:

1. Park vehicle in safe area with plenty of room around front of vehicle. Open, prop up hood and locate air box (very front of engine bay) and EGR (EGR location is just below throttle opening which is connected to the air filter box tube/duct - hard to see at this point).

Warning! Wait for engine to cool first, warm to touch, before working in the engine bay.

2. Untighten "first screw clamp" from "air filter box" to "air filter tube/duct" with flathead screw driver. A small flathead screw driver will work best at this location depending if the screw/worm of the screw clamp is in a tight location.No need to fully unscrew screw clamp, just loosen to be able to remove component.

3. Unclamp the 2 clamps from air filter box.

4. Gently remove connecting hose (crankcase ventilation hose) on the right side of the air filter box. If it is tight, gently twist to remove while holding the part that connects to the air filter box.

5. Gently twist and pull off top part of the air filter box. Set it aside. Air filter can be left in for this procedure, no need to remove it.

6. Unplug connector from air filter tube/duct.

7. Untighten "second screw clamp" from "air filter tube/duct" to "throttle body" with flathead screw driver. A regular size flathead screw driver will work best at this location depending if the screw/worm of the screw clamp is in a in a tight location. No need to fully unscrew screw clamp, just loosen to be able to remove component.

8. Gently twist and pull off air filter tube/duct. Set it aside.

9. Locate EGR beneath throttle body and 2 mounting bolts.

10. Using "ratchet + extension bar + adjustable connector + 10mm socket" ease it onto the left mounting bolt and loosen bolt (counter-clockwise to loosen) but do not fully loosen yet. If this is the first time it is being untightened, it will be tight, even if engine is warm to touch.

11. Now loosen right side. Once both sides are loosened, continue to take both bolts off.

12. EGR should come off easily. It can be taken out between the coolant hose and throttle body. Push down coolant hose to get more room to squeeze EGR out.

13. Clean EGR valve and chamber using a wire tooth brush and 2mm flathead screw driver. Use brake cleaner to spray out deposits and a shop towel + 2mm flathead combo to remove further deposits.

Be careful not to spray eyes! I suggest wearing safety glasses. Spray over bucket with shop towels, paper towels or newspapers.

Notice EGR valve when pushed down with 2mm flathead screw driver. It will be a little harder to lightly pry up within the chamber with 2mm flathead at this point. Also, the valve should still move smoothly up and down when not pushed all the way to the bottom. In addition, the valve should stay down when pushed down due to the solenoid, but should also easily be released if valve is very lightly pried up. Due to carbon buildup, the valve is sticky and a little harder to pry up at this point.

Clean chamber and top portion (head) of the valve until you see metal. Due the best you can though you might not be able to get everything. EGR valve should be easily pried up after cleaning, valve should pop up with a little light push.

Be careful not to ruin the gasket portion on the EGR while cleaning and spraying.

14. If there is excessive carbon build-up in and around the throttle intake. Spray brake cleaner on a towel and wipe away until shiny.

15. Reverse order to install for EGR and air filter tube/duct and box.

Make sure alignment of EGR back onto intake manifold is correct.

Double check mounting bolts are tight, as tight as when they came off.

Double check connectors are connected before moving on to the next step of reinstallation.

Air filter box might be a little tricky to get on, but push down to locate it into the slots.

Good luck! Hope this helped!

Caught unprepared or by surprise.