Chevy G20

There about 3 basic sizes that were on that van originally, and for all practical purposes the G10 and the G20 vans used the same size axle from 1985 thru 1995, however it may be a little hard to find a van with the same axle ratio, (for example, 3.42 or 4.10), which you probably want to do just so you won't have to have your speedometer recalibrated so it will read correctly.

to the left of the blower motor. It's on the left side of the engine compartment

You will need a special tool called a "fork" that pops the connection. Remove the nut at the end of the idle arm joint then put the fork in place and give it a few good hits with a big hammer. Of course you will complete the destruction of the idle arm, but you're replacing it anyway. After the joint is loose, remove the bolts from the frame and drop the idle arm and replace it.

I have been doing transmission work for about five years and in that time the only way I have ever stoped a rear main seal leak is to remove the transmission andflywheel. There are no bolts to tighten.

what kind of vehicle

it is set to 11 degrees BTDC tom_dee2002 at yahoo dot com

Now i know i am in ka ka first of all ..IF you don't have a schematic of a stearing wheel and you don,t have the proper or special tools for taking the stearing wheel apart you should not touch this one. BUT here goes first OFF you will have to take the stearing wheel off no problem ok you have the puller that's good ,now you need to compress the plastic ring so you can take the C clip off of the stearing colume NOW REMEMBER HOW YOU TOOK IT APART because your going to have to put it all back together .Now that you have gotten this far and have taken out the signal and cansoling cams on the right side over top of the ignition modual is a funny looking screw that's right that's what holds the ignition modual in . That funny looking spring well remember how that goes in that's for your beeper When you take that long screw out you will be able to pull the ignition modual out see that grove in the side of it that's where the screw goes that holds it in. be careful and replace everything just like you took it apart.BUT NOW THAT YOU HAVE GOTTEN THIS FAR and have not screwed up Is your wheel a TILT and does it wiggle around a little doesnt feel to good AH Well the next step is to go one or two steps further and take the wheel apart even further YOU WILL NEED a special tool for this but your napa store should have it about $12.00 for taking the screws out that hold the tilt together when you have this all out you will be able to tighten up the torx screws that hold your tilt together the best thiung that you can do for yourself if you have gotten this far is to apply lock tight to those screws.The next best thing to your mind is a schematic drawing get one blown up and good luck.Try getting an old colum from a wrecker or auto dismantler and practice on that one Wayne

You can try going to your local auto parts supply store and borrowing their diagnostic OBD code scanner. If there is a problem it will probably not be able to retrieve any codes. If you get codes then you will have a couple of places to start troubleshooting from. After my Chevy van stopped running completely, I pulled the ECM and inspected the greenboards for damage. Sure enough, mine had a burned out spot. I replaced the whole ECM for less than $300. It had to be reprogramed to my vehicle's specific VIN number and I had to retain the knock sensor and put it back on the ECM before I installed the new one. When you buy new parts ask questions. Sometimes the sexual intellectuals at the parts counter won't tell you important information unless you ask.

Remove the Rear Panel You need to remove the bottom panel (the panel below the rear window). To do this, get into the van (it helps to remove the rear seats), pop the plastic cover over the pull-down strap (this cover actually slides up), and the covers on both sides of the handle (these covers will pop from the front; use a flat-head screwdriver, insert it from the top). Once you get the covers off, remove the bolts using a 10mm socket. Remove the panel. I found out that it's easiest to remove the panel by pulling out from the bottom. Don't worry about pulling it. It's held only by pull-out pins. Removing the Latch (from Findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna) Remove the internal (3) 10mm nuts holding the lock/handle cover plate on. A deep 10 mm socket works best. Squeeze the white clip in the end position. Pull this away from the door a little. The backup light wires are still attached, so you cannot pull far. Remove the 2 screws that hold the handle to this plate, and remove the latch cable (it just pulls off). You can now see where the handle has broken. Repairing the Break The handle and lever WAS made of a single hard plastic material. After removing the handle, I drilled through the Plastic lever and handle using a 1/9-inch drill bit. I then used a 3/4-inch long, No. 40 machine screw and inserted it form the handle all the way through the lever. It's a tight fit. I twisted the screw to get it in. I then replaced the handle, reattached the thingamajig over the license plate and re-connected the cable. Test the handle before re-installing the panel. It cost me 17 cents at the corner hardware store for the machine screw. Total time it took was 45 minutes (including the trip to the store). I saved $300 over what the dealer would have charged me. Nando

open the "glove box" on the motor cover and look for option code E22. E22 is the rear door handle option. It'll take a little time looking through all of the small numbers & letters on the sticker but if it came with it that's where you can fing your build codes.

Its a inline filter that is back along the frame by the fuel tank on the passengers side.

Well the first thing to do is check the fuse for the power windows should be a 30 amp metal fuse check for continuity, if fuse is ok, take the door panel apart and then take the connector off of the power window motor ,with a trouble light check to see if you have power with the switch in the up and the down position if you have power in both positions and the window does nothing then get a battery and place the ground wire on the door and the positive end to either prongs on the back of the motor if the motor does nothing then the motor is either no gode or jambed, if it works one way then try the positive on the other side of the plug, if that also works then you have a grounding problem, PS both windows have to work from the drivers side first. Try this before attempting to take the motor out ,If in dought splice the black wire and ground it to the door frame . If all else fails take the three screws out that hold the window motor in and bench test the motor ,If you are going to replace the motor you are going to have to take it out anyways right,so while it is in the up position cut a splice of wood so you can put it in the door to hold the window in the up position before you take the motor out Wayne