Chevy Impala

The 2004 Chevrolet Impala is a front-wheel-drive vehicle. This means that the engine's power is transmitted to the front wheels, which are responsible for both steering and propulsion. Rear-wheel drive would mean the power is sent to the rear wheels, and four-wheel drive would typically allow the driver to manually switch between two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive modes for better traction in certain conditions.

22 mpg according to new EPA guidelines. 6 cyl, 3.4 L, Automatic 4-spd, Regular City=19mpg Hwy=29mpg

Disconnect the battery, remove the spark plugs wires and boots and remove the spark plugs. Put in the spark plugs, replace the spark plug wires and boots, and connect the battery.

Check fuse for parking/tailights Could be bad dimmer rheostat Could be bad headlight switch

The Impala has two bushings. One vertical which is the outer bushings, and the second one which is the horizontal (inner) bushing. Best thing to do is buy the bushings at rock auto. Vertical is like $18 and Horizontal is about $16. These bushings need to be pressed into the control arm so u have to take it to a machine shop...its probably charge 1 hour labor rate for both sides. U need a special tool to press out the old ones and insert the new ones. Removing the control arm is necessary.

In the fuel tank...

no it uses a big rubber band, drive backwards to rewind it

you don't say upper or lower. either way the wheel comes off first.undo upper or lower ball joints you'll probably need a fork for this.if you are taking the upper arm off there are shims there. count the shims on each side & their thickness because they'll have to go back on the same way they came off

you will have to take the console out or at least the top piece of the console and then you will see the shifter is bolted to the floor.

Volvo

Well, you are supposed to be able to pull on two straps coming through the seat belt holes in the seat and the seat bottom fold forward into the floor. Then you just pull on one of the buttons on the top of the seat and then lay the seat back forward. Unfortunately, mine seems to be broken and the bottom straps don't seem to unlatch and allow the seat to tip forward. Big favor, if you get your to work and figure out that there is some lock mechanism that is stuck on mine, then let me know.

donnen_hicks70@hotmail.com

I also had this problem, what i had to do is, pull both buttons at the top of the back seat then while standing as best you can in front of both pull straps pull them at the same time. Its kinda odd, but you have to pull them with equal force at the same time then they will unlock and come down. the only way I've been able to do this is while standing in the vehicle.

If it is anything like my husbands vehicle you have to take the head rests off to lay it down flat

Under vthe back of the car between the rear wheels there is a cable. it should run from the back of each wheel to an adjustment screw. this screw is probablly rusted up really bad. by putting a wrench on the short side of the screw(driver side) and turning the nut that is on there you can adjust your brake one wway or the other. NOTE: upon adjusting my brake cable one day it snapped in half. then i went to the dealership and had it fixed.

Yes.

Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission. You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle??? Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.

hi, ok pretty sinple if its the front the hardest part is the window winder, if its not electric, there is a small pin behind the washer looking part you need 2 flat head screwdrivers because each end of the pin is out to hold it in place. lift the pin upwards until it clicks and the whole thing should come off. next the black panel that has your window turners on it has screws unscrew that and the it has a sort of plug just pull it out( mine snapped so be careful) the just unscrew all the screws from there on. the inner door handle itself is slipped inpace so unscrew that and disconnect the arm that opens the door when triggered from outside, push the whole door handle after that to the left and it should unclip. after that just release the clip[s holding the panel on. good luck.

Auto or stick? Stick, it's probably a problem with the clutch or pilot bushing/bearing. Auto, it's probably a problem with the linkage.

http://www.decodethis.com/164679U223937

On a 1996 Ford Escort :

The power steering fluid goes in the power steering fluid reservoir , at the front

of the engine compartment , on the passenger side of the vehicle

( looking from the front of the vehicle it is the reservoir on the RIGHT)

* With the 1.9 liter engine the reservoir on the left is the engine coolant reservoir and with the 1.8 liter engine the reservoir on the left is the windshield washer fluid reservoir , but with both engines the power steering fluid reservoir is the container to the RIGHT , looking from the FRONT of the vehicle

i would start with the pomp see if it spins or motor is burn, next the check valve, and solenoid valve.

On a 2004 you just turn off the radio and hold down the display button until you hear a beep and a menu comes up. Press the seek button until you get to tire monitor. Reset tire monitor and turn radio back on. Probably same for a 2006.

you should take it back to the dealer

Under the front passenger side. Behind the tire about a two feet in. It is right next to the exhaust pipe

In general terms, without knowing the car, I would suggest blocking it up securely first. Now remove the wheels and take off both outer tie rod ends from the wheel knuckles. If there are other parts in the way, (such as a sway bar) you may have to remove that next. Now you should be able to remove the bolts holding the rack.

- I am fortunate to have a large wreckers yard not far away,and when doing any new job such as this,I go there and inspect a wreck of the same make, often the engines are removed and you can easily see what all the challenges are.

5w20 weight.

The rear bearings are a hub assembly meaning you will be replacing the wheel hub as a unit. There are three bolts that go from the inside out that are usually VERY tight so be careful not to hurt yourself when they come loose. Also they are usually 12 point heads on the bolts. When you get the bolts out, you may have to work a little to get the bearing loose from the suspension but it may come off easy. Just reverse proceedure to install making sure all fasteners are TIGHT. Also make sure to torque lug nuts to mfg specifications.