Chevy Impala

I had an 88 buick regal and the e-brake pedal on the left front lower part of the driver side compartment was "pump to set". In other words, pumping the pedal and releasing several times is supposed to automatically adjust the e-brake, providing everything is working properly. As with mine, I replaced the rear calipers many times because they were a bad design and always got mucked up back there being so exposed to the elements. Where the e-brake cables attatch to the caliper was always freezing up because of dirt and debris. Make sure your e-brake cables really are good and free, then lubricate the hell out of the spring and attatching assy on the caliper. The calipers need to function properly too. If they are sticking, then it may have an affect on the e-brake assy. It's always best to use the e-brake often, as many automatics w/e-brake are seldom used and freeze up. Good luck.

Drain the radiator into a container. Remove the upper hose at the engine end. Remove the 2 bolts in the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat. Clean both surfaces and install the thermostat "O" ring. Install the thermostat ,housing and 2 retaining bolts. Install the upper hose and fill the coolant recovery tank.jd

Castrol is the best brand and synthetic is the best type of oil, but it is expensive for the synthetic. I would use regular 10w30 Castrol and put Duralube in it every 50k miles. Change oil regularly. The Duralube is the every 50k mile.

How on earth fast could you possibly want to go that the car won't already do? Mine runs up to 120mph but there is nowhere in this country where that is even close to legal, other than a racetrack, of course. Actually mine has been clocked at 138 mph. Not safe.. not in an Impala. Not even in a police model.

Follow the top radiator hose down to the water outlet; the stat is in water outlet. Remove air cleaner if it is in the way. I don't drain the rad I just remove the 2-3 bolts holding water outlet in place; coolant will drain the level you need to work at. The outlet may be snug after bolts are removed, nudge it to free outlet cover. Remove cover, old gasket, and stat. Clean sufaces and dry them.Apply a sealer to gasket and install the stat with point facing same direction as old one was. Snug the bolts evenly; do not overtighen them or the housing may crack. Fill with coolant and leave cap off and start car and run for 20 minutes to bleed air out of system. Done. I hope this helps you. Mark

there are several screws located near the door handles you must take the top off them to find the screws. no hard really you just have to look

Based on your abbreviated question, right now I can think of only two causes for the problem First, and probably more common than the second cause, is that your A/C system has developed a leak, and has lost a major part of the coolant [Freon]. That would require that the leak be located and repaired, and an evacuation and recharge of the cooling system. The other possible cause is that the "air blend door" in the plenum box, usually below and farword of the glove box, is not working properly, and is blending in too much hot air. Most modern automotive heating/cooling/ventillation systems "adjust" the temperature of the air into the passenger compartment by mixing hot air [hot coolant from the engine] and very cold air from the air conditioning evaporator core. This is accomplished by a door which changes position in order to provide more cold and less hot air, or vice versa. You adjust the position of the blend door when you set the system control to heat or air conditioning, AND the level of heating or cooling by adjusting the temperature control. Usually, the blend door is operated by vacuum from the engine, and IF there is a vacuum leak, or the hinge pins of the door are sticking, then the air blend door will not respond to the temperature adjustment you set with the controls. Also, it is possible that there has been an accumulation of all kinds of debris [leaves, candy wrappers, plastic shopping bags, etc.] inside the plenum box, which jambs the air blend door. Depending on your skill level, and equipment available, it may be better to have an a/c technician, or a qualified mechanic check out your a/c system.j3h.

The recommended oil type for a 2000 Chevrolet Impala is 10 W 30. The car uses automatic transmission fluid that can be purchased at any auto parts store.

Because you own a clone.

Caprice and Impala are effectively the same car, but with different options. There are many, many more Caprices in the world than Impalas, and with exterior differences just trim pieces, a lot of people will try to turn their workaday Caprices into zoomy Impalas by changing out the rims and trim. Inside the car, it's a matter of leather seats, a floor shifter, and some other appointments that are also fairly easy to change out.

The biggest difference is that all Impalas, but only a very few Caprices, had the 5.7 liter V8 with dual exhausts. Most Caprices had the L99 4.3 liter V8 (which is exactly the same, but with smaller cylinder bores and maybe different pistons) and a single exhaust.

C4 Corvettes are a unibody construction. The body will not lift off in one piece, leaving a full frame rolling chassis. 1982 was the last year of the old fashioned, body on frame, Corvette.

Mike V.

ASE Master Certified

By putting a supercharger on it. Talk to your local high performance auto parts store. You can get one with everything you need included in the box. Probably starting around $3000.

Open the driver door and remove the panel on the end of the dash

Yes

But just because there is room does not make it easy.

You will need a transmision, special modified drve shaft and a complete donor set up of accessories from the car the 427 came from.

a giraff

If you are talking about the flasher is is part of the hazard warning module If you are talking about the flasher is is part of the hazard warning module

Balance your tires!

Depends on many factors. Most valuable are 2 dr. hardtops. The larger the engine the more it is worth. The more options, the more it is worth. And most important is the condition of the vehicle. Go here for a ballpark figure. www.nada.com This vehicle is worth what someone will pay for it. Ask yourself how many 1964 Chevy Impala's do you see running around?

Have your alternator checked out.

1961 or 1962

top left (passenger side). you can see the copper coils and fanlike look of it very easily.

It's 3 bolts, and battery cables. very very easy to replace. (less than $100 for parts, also replace belt). Anyone can replace it in under 20mins. All you need is a basic socket set, breaker bar, and an extra pair of hands to pull back the belt once you relive tension off it (use Phillips to pull belt back not fingers). the belt costs $20 and will prob get cut when you pull it off. if you're alt has gone out you most likely need one anyways. so replace it as well.

a haynes repair manual will help greatly.

Yes.

This light has to be reset by the person doing the oil change. It is not automatic when the oil is changed.

There is a low oil level sensor in the side of the oil pan. It is most likely defective.

take the bolts out of it

back passanger side of engine.... by the fire wall.... remove the stabilizer bar and stick you hand down there with the car off and cold and you will feel a cap that you twist off and there is your resivor...