Chevy Impala

Trouble code P2135 means: Throttle Position Sensor 1-2 Correlation Error

in Google search enter what you are looking for.."64 Chevy"

"64 Chevy fuel tank diagram". No luck try your local library.Some librarys have donated car repair manules.. Purchase one on line,or go to advanced auto and order a repair manual for 64 Chevy,"HAINES". I bet your best luck will come from on line search. Actually there is not much to a 64 chev fuel tank and connecting lined. If you are concidering installing a electric pump. Just cover the fuel pump mounting area with a metal plate. Use your old fuel pump for a template.Hook up your gas lines to the pump and you are ready to roll.You do need to connect electrical wires to get the electric pump operational.I think there was no mess filter in the fuel tank back then on the gm cars..??? You need to make sure your fule tank filler pipe has a vented gas cap on it. If you do not see a small vent hole in the center on bottom side of cap,go get one that does. A non vented fuel tank can cause problems with engine operation,and also can collaps a fuel tank,or at least give a heck of a try at doing so,and this is where engine acting up is the result. If you purchase a new mechanical fuel pump ,be certain to get the same as your worn out one. The connecting arm that goes into the engine to bunt up against the cam ,which operated like a old well pump to suck up water,be certain the lenght of the arm is the correct /fule pump is correct.Short arm can cause you to run out of gas before the tank hits 1/8 tank,and a long arm can ruin the pump ,basically bend the pump arm as it may not reguire a long stroke with the pump arm. You probably don't need all this information,but some times a little extra input never hurts a mind with the older cars.Good luck to you my friend.

The throttle position sensor is actually apart of the throttle plate actuator assembly and must be replaced as a unit.

when my car did this it was a blown fuse

does it stop after some time? it could be just the radiator Fan, it's fine, if it didn't spin right, your engine coolant would accumulate heat when the car is stopped because there would no air flowing through the radiator to drain the heat. since it stops when you move, it sounds like that's it. If it really runs constantly when you're not moving, you might want to have your radiator cleaned or changed or maybe yours is just meant to act this way, but it could be a sign of an inefficient Radiator. mine stops after about 10 seconds of spinning for example, but it's almost brand new.

See Check/Replace Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 5: Service and Appearance Care - Checking Things Under the Hood...

Nope; they are different cars, though they are both made by Chevy and may have the same umbrella company maker buying the parts and having them assembled in a likewise fashion at one of their assembly plants. Much like Lexus is owned by Toyota but it's never advertised due to the huge disparity in price between the two kinds of cars and makes though owned and distributed by the same company.

It seem like my thermometer stuck on 68 degrees. have checked my book and this is not addressed. thank you

it's a system which tracks your service needs

To get to the dash lights, first you will need to remove the plastic shroud around your steering column. the bolt size is 7/32. use a Deepwell socket, 1/4 inch rachet and extention to reach into the shroud to loosen it. Remove the top portion of the shroud and set aside. the bezel around the cluster has two push pin style clips. push the centers in to loosen the clips. do not push to far, for the pins will push through and be lost in the dashboard. after the bazel is off, locate the two screw covers in the center of the upper dash plate. pry them off gently, and us a 7mm socket to remove the hold down bolts. pry the upper dash plate with some force to loosen the metal clips holding it in place. once the entire front edge is loose, lift up, and pull out to remove. there are two screws behind the cluster 8mm i believe, that hold the cluster in from behind. you can also disconnect the wireing harness at this point. in the front of the cluster in the lower left and right corners, 2 more screws hold the cluster in. remove these screws and the cluster should come out. you may have to tilt your steering wheel all the way down in order to fit it out.

According to my buddy who is a ase certified mechanic yes they can, but most of the time they will tell you that they cannot due to the fact they would rather make the markup on a new module and the installation, hope this answers your question.

please help me with p/s hose

A SPECIAL puller is required to remove the balancer.

It should be under the hood of the vehicle or in your owners manual.

sam and dean Winchester are demon hunters they believe in the supernatural

Should be the Fuse marked TRK/ROOF BRP in the Passenger's Side Instrument Panel Fuse Block as seen on page 6-64 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 6: Service and Appearance Care - Electrical System - Fuses and Circuit Breakers...

Do you mean the power steering reservoir?

If so, it's not a fun one to get at.

The Impala uses the 3800 (or 3400) engine depending on if you have an LS or not. The easiest way to get at the power steering reservoir and dipstick is by approaching from the passenger side. The dipstick and reservoir are located on the back of the engine, towards the firewall all the way at the bottom.

For fun, take it to a dealer and say you need them to check the power steering fluid levels, then listen to all the fun curse words they say when you tell them it's got the 3800 engine.

AHH yes,, The mysterious water swooshing noise in the dashboard when turning, and/or water leaking under the dash at the passenger side, as well as possibly the heater fan sounding like it's spitting water…there can be only one explanation and this is IT.

First, let me assure you that all manner of answers from mechanics have been researched and considered, but so far no one has yet answered this satisfactorily in any forum I have come across. Usually it is something along the lines of "coolant leak", evaporator core issues, etc etc but these fellows are missing the vital point…it is WATER not some exotic liquid cocktail usually associated with serious and expensive vehicle problems.

I own a 1996 Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest which developed this problem after a heavy rainfall. Coincidence? NO WAY!

I had the proverbial water leak beneath the passenger side dash, as well as what sounded like a bathtub full of water behind my dash swooshing back and forth.

So here's the deal. These vehicles, like many others have a reservoir above the firewall just beneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield, which also houses the wiper motor, etc. typically the reservoir collects any water running from the windshield or rain in general. There are two drains one at the drivers side and one at the passenger side. These drains usually work great except when they become plugged with silt, debris from trees shedding leaves, insect matter etc. When this happens, the water simply collects and fills the reservoir with nowhere to go except into the fresh air intake for the cabin heating/cooling system located just above the passenger side glove compartment.

The water then leaks into the venting ducts and onto the floor. It also stays in the reservoir and sloshes back and forth while driving.

Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out and charge you ½ hr labor to remove the plastic shroud and unplug the drains. That's pretty much the extent of it. I did it myself and it took about 20 minutes.

The wipers have to be removed. There is a release clip at the bottom of the wiper coupling where it meets the drive shaft. Pull it back and lift the wiper straight up and off the shaft. Remove the plastic pins ( they look like slotted screws) along the top of the shroud by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them straight out with some needle nose pliers. Open the hood and remove the rubber seal strip along the edge of the shroud. Find the little plastic holding pins and reach around to the bottom of each pin. You need to compress the little barbs on both sides of the pin to allow it to be pushed up through the hole. There are also 4 plastic push-lock pins holding the bottom edge of the shroud. You will have to pull up on the center (looks like a screw) of each pin and pull it almost all the way out. Then remove the whole pin assembly. A small sharp pair of end cutters works great. Now with a little bit of twisting and careful manipulation you should be able to pull the plastic piece up and out of the way. Start at the corners and pull the piece down and out from under the windshield trim. Then lift it up carefully and move it to rest on the windshield being careful not to disconnect any rubber hoses from the washer nozzles.

The drains are located at the far edge of the trough in each corner. Use a straightened coat hanger or something similar to poke and clear the drain. Get your garden hose and with a good straight stream of water flush out each drain hole and make sure it is draining. Water will pour out of the rear of each wheel well just under the front of each door.

Try using a spray of Lysol or other household disinfectant into the trough since it may have had stagnant water for some time. This will kill any bacteria that may have found it a haven for while and ensure that you will not be blowing it into the passenger compartment every time you turn on your blower.

Put it all back together and enjoy!!!

And tell your mechanic who was going to charge you $1000 to pull your dashboard apart and fix your heater core and who knows what else, to go back for some refresher courses.

Good luck.

Rainer Wiechmann

i just jond all it is is a drain plug stopt up the black cover at the wend shild take the pasenger one off and you will see the ac/heater filter poot your hand in thar and you will fill the drain plug is stopt up its twords the middel of the car

Yes. I own a 2003 impala. And my stock engine is the 3.4L or 3400 sfi v6. The same likewise style impala from years 2000-05 come stock with either the 3.4L, 3.8L or even the 3.8L supercharged. So there is quite a bit of room under the hood of a 2003 impala

no

See Towing a Trailer on page 4-38 and the following pages of your "Owner's Manual" for details.....

yes.

Well, either they are NOT all on the same circuit...OR...theres a disruption of power to the remaining lights. Generally when installing multiple lights on the same circuit they'll be in parallel from the switch. There are min. 2 wires going to each light a "Hot" Conducter and a "Neutral" Conducter (forget ground for now). To graphically demonstrate whatsgoing on with your lights, get a piece of paper and pencil. Draw a Ladder that's sitting on its side. Make the Ladder have 4 steps. You should now be looking at 2 long horizontal lines with 4 vetical lines intersecting them. Name the top horizontal line "Hot" and the Bottom horizontal line "Neutral". From left to right name each of the four Vertical lines "L1, L2, L3, and L4" These signify your lights (if you had 4 lights). Now in between L2 and L3 make an X on the 2 Horizontal lines (the ladders legs). The "X" signifies whats preventing power from reaching your 3rd and 4th Lights. This Diagram also shows why your 1st and 2nd lights still work. What Id do is Check for a hidden switch somewhere, or Wire damage, or even a GFI socket (the plug in your bathroom above the sink with the Test/Reset buttons)....Find what "X" is and you'll solve your problem. -Good Luck!

there ia a fuse on some but un-fortunetly you didn say what kind of car or the year.