Chevy Impala

Yes, there are 3. One is located on both of the door jams for front doors towards the front of the car. The panel covers will just pop off. The third is located under the hood.

Turn radio on.

Press button with clock symbol.

Select fields for h:m, date.

Change numbers using tuning knob.

Press button with clock symbol when finished.

Disconnect the rubber hoses from the heater and the intake. Once the clamp is removed, take a sharp knife and split the rubber ends and peal them off. DO NOT pull on the heater core as you can damage the heater core. Take a hacksaw and cut the band off and replace the heater hose using new clamps.

Its located on the driver side of the transmission behind the casing. You must drop the driver side of transmission along with engine. Dont do this unless you have someone with experience with you. Time consuming job.

You need to purchase a Haynes Manual that covers your car. You can buy them at a bookstore or an auto parts house.

chevy, it was created in texas. if u meant the animal it was godddddddd. lol

What size engine.

The starter and cillanoid are one. They are located directly under the radiator.

No way can anyone list the procedure. Way too involved. Purchase a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual for the model year. It has instructions and detailed photos. bottom line: the front has to be stripped off the engine

Usually at the engine end of the upper radiator hose in a bolt on type housing

See Tail/Stop/Turn Signal on page 6-38 of your "Owner's Manual", under Section 6: Service and Appearance Care - Bulb replacement.....

It is relatively simple if you have a general tool kit and some patience. I just replaced mine yesterday and it wasn't too bad (aside from the trip I had to make to get some deep well sockets (metric) and a couple 3/8 drive extensions...).

First (I didn't do this) try to drain some coolant from the system; either try to locate a drain valve on the radiator (I don't know if there is one) or make sure you're on a surface you can easily clean when you start this project. If you cannot drain any coolant from the system go ahead and locate the coolant tube running from the top right hand side of the radiator (if you're standing in front of the car) to the "goose neck" attached to the block (it's right in front of the throttle body).

Next: clamp and slide down the clip holding the tube on the goose neck (not the radiator) and bend the tube to one side and out of the way (if you could not drain some coolant from the system it will spill all over at this point).

Next: locate and remove the breather tubing from the air filter housing to the throttle body. You do this by loosening two hose clamps with a standard screw driver: one attached to the air filter housing and the other to the throttle body. Remove it and set it to the side. (Note: there are some electrical connections and other tubing attached to these, you can disconnect them and remove them, just make sure you put them back. You'll need the room to work though, so go ahead and do it).

Next: you'll have to remove the throttle body to make room to work on removing the "goose neck". before doing that you'll have to remove the throttle cable bracket being held on by three or so 10mm nuts. The body is attached by three 13mm bolts/nuts (and one 10mm nut that holds on the throttle cable bracket on the bottom right if you're looking at the body from the right side of the vehicle). (Note: You may want to check to see if you need any gaskets for the throttle body, I did not replace any gaskets except for the one that came with the thermostat).

Next: There is a line running from the water pump (on the left side of the compartment) and it wraps around under and in front of the goose neck, it has three hoses attached to it, two that run under the goose neck and one on the end of this line, you'll want to undo those hoses and loosen the one bolt on the line attached to the water pump, only enough to move the line out of the way (do not bend this line!!!!). (Note: another gasket on the water pump/line you might want to replace. I did not and haven't had any problems.)

Next: once that line is semi-out-of-the-way you'll have to try removing the heat shield on top of the exhaust manifold running under the goosneck. I could not remove it but could only sort of move it out of the way just enough to loosen the bolts on the goose neck. This shield has four small bolts, they are on very tight because of all the heat and they may break off easily if you're not careful. The best way to go about doing this is to break it loose and turn it until it gets hard to turn again, then tighten it back up and then loosen again. Repeat this until the bolt is out. If you don't do this the rust in the threads might seize the bolt and cause it to twist apart, leaving the head off and threads inside.

Next: remove the two 10mm bolts from the goose neck and remove it from the block (easier said than done). Heads up... it's not easy and takes a little time and scratched hands to get them out. Best way is to use the open end of a 10mm box wrench. A ratchet will not work, sorry (doesn't mean you can't try thought!, good luck).

Next: Once the goose neck is off you can pull out the old thermostat with some pliers and clean the old gasket from the goose neck and block. Make sure you have a gasket for the thermostat (mine came with the part), install the new thermostat and re-assemble the many parts you have scattered across the floor, hood, engine compartment, tool box, etc. Good luck, and please remember to double check all parts you've removed to make sure you have everything back where they came from. If you have extra parts lying around it's a good indication you forgot something. Happy Mechanicing!!!

The curb weight of the 2008 Chevrolet Impala is 3555 lbs..

The tires that came stock on the 1959 Impala were the OEM. On the convertible they were the 235 blue-flame tires. OEM stands for the original equipment manufacturer.

20" wheels will fit no problem. I had a set on my RX8 and they fit fine even when the car was lowered.

Power windows are protected by an automatic resetting circuit breaker.

check your wheel speed sensors. One of the wires may be disconnected or broken.

I have a 97 Ford Explorer with 22" rims. My tire size is 285/30R22, and turning the wheel lock to lock it rubs slightly. 22" rims will not fit on a 99 Park Avenue without rubbing. Question, why wouldn't you get 20" rims? That way you still have some space to lower your Buick and tuck the 20's. The problem is that the 22's will fit (but will rub) and it will make your ride 2" higher than a 20 (depending on tire size of course), and leave little to no room for lowering because your wheel well is 'too full' 22" Wheels will fit on a 1999 Buick Park Avenue. As long as you have a high positive offset (FWD) wheel. The tire you will need is made by Nitto Tires, 255/30/22. The total height of this wheel and tire combo is 28.0". The stock wheel and tire combo is 26.6" inches. This is a 1.6" difference, the only thing you might have to do is adjust the plastic liner that is snapped inside your wheel well, you will want to upgrade your brakes though at least to a bigger rotor, maybe cross drilled or slotted. You can't go cheap on the pads, or you will be replacing them every two months. There is more weight, which means more heat and wear caused by increased friction. Here are some more measurements that will be helpful too... 255/30/22=28.0", 285/30/22=28.7", 295/30/22=29.0", 265/35/22=29.3" 255/35/20=27.0". 22's will fit as long as you have the right offset on your wheel and you use the nitto n555 tire mentioned 255/30/22

These sizes fit 255/30/22 or 245/30/22 or 235/30/22 they all fit on buicks from park avenues to lesabre years 95-05 supercharge it if its not already. but the best size is 245/30/22 because its not too much tire not to little tire rides smoother, 235/30/22 is the smallest for a buicks, its thinner and you will feel every bump in the road but neither of the tire rubs.

Owners manual has location of all fuses. Interior fuses are usually on the drivers side of the dash between the dash and door.

Yes-----you can Clone the SS providing you have a good 2 dr hard top coupe V-8 chassis to start with

however you will need to do major Modifications through out the car front to rear and top to bottom and get all the right options trim and badges see link below

Try to get a 409 CID @ 400hp that would make it a classic clone . Riverside red with a white vinyl top dark red interior paint with white vinyl seats and red carpet

The 64 SS Impala is highly sought after and is worth bank if kept original but "cloned" SS's are still worth 50% to 80% of the real deal and of course must have the proper options " posi rear axle 4 seasons air conditioner a tach and all the SS trim and floor shift console.. and of course a center rear seat speaker among other choice SS optional items so no matter what engine it has from a 283 CID to a turbo fire 327CID @ 350 bph all the way to the 427 monster big block or the 409 CID it is the grail for most enthusiasts and they even made a few 6 cyl SS models as well believe it or not...it has a very special SS L-6 , made specifically for the Impala

Here is a link to the Specs and options for the 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS

http://www.oldride.com/library/1964_chevrolet_impala.html

When you part with it "the Clone" be sure to keep it real and advise the new owner it's a clone done right !!!!

Search online for more detailed info

Have fun

Xen DuB

2.25inch

you have to either cut the wheel well or put a lift on it