There is no engine from 1998 without fuel injection. If You have an older engine, the pump is boltet at the lower engine side. it is just two bolts and easy to install. It is wise to change the seal, because it often break when you unbolt the pump.
Depending on the vehicle, the cooling fan may strike the radiator shroud, the cooling fan may also strike a radiator hose and you may end up with a cracked/leaky exhaust system.
its very simple just take the gas door off and remove the 8 10mm bolts holding the sending unit in remove fuel lines and sending unit takes about 3o min
1) disconnect neg - on battery
2) remove gas door, remove the 3 lines (gas/vent), disconnect power feed.
3) remove the 8 10mm bolts
4) replace pump as we as the pre-mesh filter (pump purchase does not include filter)
5) reinstall - steps 3, 2, 1
Average cost for Fuel Pump, $150 Cdn.
They are obviously not free. but $12 ain't bad for a wiring diagram for an S10
No, it won't. Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair uses compounds which interact with the rubbers and plastics used in the majority of engine oil seals and some gaskets. These are mostly seals around rotating components or shafts, such as o-rings and circular seals. The product coats and swells the rubber in these seals, to get them to seal again after they have been worn down and deformed.
The majority of flat surface gaskets are fiber, and all head gaskets are metal or composition (and even these seal around the cylinders where your leak usually is with metal). Rear Main Seal Repair will have no effect on this material. If the head gasket is leaking coolant, then Bar's Leaks for radiators may solve the problem if it is a minor leak, and is not affected by cylinder compression.
Earlier carburated vehicles used external fuel pumps.
Firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Rotor turns clockwise.
the torque is 25 foot pounds
i believe it is the same as my 98 s10 2.2 l and the firing order is 1-4-2-3 (where cylinder #1 is the closest to the fire wall) and your distributer has the plug wires running almost vertically 1st cylinder = the very bottom and 4th cylinder = second from the bottom and 2nd cylinder = second from the top and 3rd cylinder = the top connection on the distributer.
I know it it is 3000 Away from L wood And Sharks vill that’s all I know
Hey George==Get under the truck and it is on the left side of the engine above the exhaust pipe. goodluckJoe
They use a TV cable (Thottle Valve cable) to determine shifting.The TV cable hooks up to the carburetor or injection body linkage -in a (visual way) similar to the older (kickdown) linkages of 3spd automatic transmissions. It is NOT a Kickdown cable.
Proper adjustment IS CRITICAL to the survival of your 700r4.
you. Good luck
It would depend on your climate, but in most cases it would use a 5W-30 in the engine.
Check with your local auto parts store. Most can check the voltage on the car.
You can also start the motor, while it's running remove neg battery terminal if motor stays runnung your alternator is good.
This technique is best done at night/in the dark. Turn headlights on whilst engine is running. If idle is set correctly, when you press gas pedal you should notice the headlights/dash lights become brighter. If they become brighter your alternator is working.
Another check you can do at night is to observe the headlights with the engine running, then shut off the engine. The headlights should get slightly dimmer. If not then the alternator ( and connections) should be checked further
While the engine is running you can take the positive off of the battery terminal. If the car stalls, it's a good bet your alternator is shot.re-distribution of electrons is toughMost of these answers don't distinguish between a bad alternator and a bad voltage regulator, the symptoms are often the same. Voltage regulators are cheap and usually easy to replace, depending upon how deep the alternator is buried. Then again a voltmeter only costs a few bucks from harbor freight or radio shack.
Like the drunk searching for his keys under the light pole, (the light is better here) diagnosing electrical problems is best done with the easiest/cheapest jobs done first: Checking voltage drop through connectors and harnesses, Cleaning terminals (especially those on the alternator and main fuse panel), Replacing the voltage regulator, Having the battery and alternator inspected (usually free) by an auto parts chain store, etc..
Your alternator might also be ok but but marginally underpowered for the equipment in the car. This'll happen a lot to cars that are loaded down with aftermarket audio and lighting gear. I'm looking at a weird case like this right now, whenever the AC is on, and I'm just puttering around town, the battery starts sagging down under 12 volts. Since I've little aftermarket stuff in the car, I suspect that either the AC clutch or the aux fan is pulling way more current than it should.
My choices seem to be to put a bigger alternator in, or to hook up amp meters to the suspect components to see if they're pulling more than their rated power.
First buy a multimetre from a an auto store or hardware store, $15-25.
Start the car. As the user above pointed out, pull a battery cable if it continue running, you at least have running alternator. However, the alternator could be not charging enough, or over charging.
Set you multimetre to show voltage flow with at least the accuracy of one decimal place. Place the probes on the correct battery poles, red probe on the positive post and the black on the negative post.
If the multimeter reads below ~13.5 volts, it is not charging your battery, or charging it so slowly it would have to run for quite some time to fully charge; may need to replace the alternator.
A reading of ~13.5 to ~14.5 is somewhere in the norm.
And a reading above ~14.5 is probably a little high and you alternator is overcharging the battery; most likely a cheap-to-replace voltage regulator is the culprit. However, having being overcharged for an extensive amount of time may have damaged the battery.
Finally if you are still not sure, go to a trusted auto store and have them test your alternator; if you don't have a trusted auto store, don't be afraid to get a second opinion.
I just went through this with a 1994 extended cab S10. I ended up removing the interior trim. Once that was out of the way I use Vise-Grips to grasp the striker bolts and remove them - not easy as one of them is partially blocked by metal work in the door jamb.
For that one I ended up making the last few turns by rotating the metal backing plate that they are screwed into, then putting pressure on the door to hold the bolt still and then rotated the plate the other way, back and forth, like a ratchet would do.
Once that plate was off, I pushed the screws toward the door as far as they would go.
Now a crow bar (yikes!) I stuck it in between the door and the body and pulled toward the interior of the truck. WARNING: This does bend and distort the edge of the door jamb, and you have to fix that because if you don't, then the weather stripping won't seal anymore.
I finally got the screws out of the holes, but now they were wedging the door, as they were between it and the frame.
Some more pressure and the thing was open.
Result: Door open but can't be closed again - you now need a new latch and perhapes a new striker. There are also two deep gouges where the bolts dragged through the paint in the door jamb - not visible from the outside but it has to be addressed or you'll get rust.
Nasty job to be sure. I tried taking the door panel off first (also a PITA) but while I could *touch* the latch I couldn't really see it and was not able to make it open that way.
where is the relay switch panel on the 1996 s-10 pickup located i need to replace the relay switch my horn son't blow when the engine is running but will blow when the engine is off it will blow strange i was told it neede to have a relay switch i have the switch but don't know where to install it any help? Thanks
Where did you get the switch? what relay did they tell you to replace?
The horn relay is located in the relay center located in the glove compartment. The horn relay would be the second one from the left, the fist one being the fuel pump relay.
Kids love to accessorize themselves, and this is true for both boys and girls. In most cases, they will ask their parents to help out. So, if your kid says that they have to attend a fancy dress party, what accessories do you choose for them? You have to take care that you don’t overdo it or else your darling could be a laughingstock at the party. Here are some things to keep in mind when you are accessorizing your kid for a party.
▪ The gender of the kid is important. Boys cannot be saddled with ladies’ purses, for example. Though you think your boy may be pretty in girl’s clothing, you don’t what to cause embarrassment in later life for him. And vice-versa, you probably don’t want your girl looking and behaving like a tom-boy. Select the accessories according to the gender of your kid.
▪ Try to accessorize as appropriately as possible. No one should be asking the kid, “Why are you putting that buckle on your hat?” Meaningless accessories are passé. Subtlety is in.
▪ It is best if you make the most of the accessories available at home. You could make bowties, ribbon decorations and even necklaces and bracelets at home. You save on expenses, and by doing this it will make your kid feel unique and special. Also, make sure that you don’t give them any wrong signals. Don’t make your little boy carry a smoking pipe for example. They are going to grow up with the impression that smoking is okay. Keep all taboo things out of their costume, even if they are dressing up as a pirate.
▪ Another thing to remember is to accessorize the kid to a reasonable level before they are to leave for the event. If you kit them out with too many accessories, then the accessories are already going to be ruined.
You should not spend more for these accessories than the going rate, even though some malls may sell them at extortionate rates. Your kids are never going to wear the same thing twice. Most importantly, make the whole ‘dressing up’ event a fun thing for the kid – this is a good occasion for you to spend some quality time with them.
My 2003 Cavalier uses a 3/8 hex key. It probably should be the same.
Left and right are determined by sitting in the car, facing forward. On a Chevy 350, number 1 is on the left or driver's side (in the USA) furthest forward cylinder. And you don't put the plug wire anywhere on the cap. You must bring number 1 cylinder up to top dead center on the compression stroke then lift the distributor cap and see which tower the rotor is pointing to....that will be number 1 tower.
look at your cylinders the left side is 2,4,6,8 and the right side is 1, 3, 5, 7 and the whole firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 so you put one spark plug wire on lead it to the number 1 cylinder then put the other end anywhere on the cap then get another wire put it on the 8 cylinder put it right beside your first wire but clockwise then you repeat the steps until your done then fire it up!
if you have any questions about engines ask me - moparman48
Hey Barbara==The linkage has comeloose inside the door. Take the window crank off with a special tool available from the parts store and all of the screws you can find then the retainers around the sides and bottom of the trim pad. The retainers need a special tool also. GoodluckJoe Hello! i have the same problem as she does and....in my case it isn't that the linkage came loose...my linkage is all in tact. It appears to be the latch itself inside the door. I took off the latch and peered in there and both linkages moved with a tug on the INSIDE handle but it wouldn't open. When the door was shut it would open from the outside but not inside. I would presume that the latch that causes the hook to spring up has just been too worn, bent, or out of alignment. I am looking on how to get the door panel off tho :-| and i came across this article. I'm positive i can fix it if i can just get the door panel off.
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