Disconnect Negative (-) battery cable from battery

Crawl under the passenger side of the truck just behind the right front wheel (if you are as thick as me in the middle the truck will need to be raised up, safely please.)

There are two (2) 15mm head bolts holding the starter to the engine block from below.

There are two or more wires attached to the starter, usually 8mm and 15 mm wrenches or sockets needed.

Undo wires

Unbolt and do not drop starter on your head (I have done this, ouch)

The wires may need to be undone with starter hanging loose

Reverse procedure for install.

Ok to start with you have to remove the grill and the chrome around the lights. Then between the hood and the front plastic/fibreglass there is a crack with five hex screws the middle screw is smaller than the other four, take em out, there is two nuts one on the left and one on the right they are hidden under the chrome light cover hence the need to remove thelight surrounds. once all this has been done remove the plastic/fibreglass and unplug the turn and marker lights. Now the important part as the Cherokee has two latches one on the left and one on the right so from the front of the vehicle on the right take a long screwdriver and looking in under the hood push the little piece you can see to the right, now the left latch should pop up. Dont bother with the right latch as it also moves to the right but you can push on anything to open it. Now with the hood left side up you can reach in and grab the thin bar and pull it to the left and voila the hood will open. Removing the cable is eay just unscrew the door plate not all the way just loosen two screw closest to the dash and remove the two screws holding the plastic cover on the side wall and you can get it out. Next remove the three that's right three screws holding the release cable to the side wall. Next remove the two screws holding the fuse box to the front wall. Next remove the cable from under the hood just pop it out and open the two clips holding it to the hood. You can now pull it out through the fire wall and installthe new one the same way it came out you'll need a helper to push on the rubber stop as you pull the cable through from the engine compartment. Screw everything back in place and there you have it opened the hood and replaced the cable. www.a-pluspawnbrokers.co.nr

It may be true for this model year, but for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee (mine), it isn't this complicated. Remove both headlight bezels and both headlights. Behind the headlight bowl/socket/cup (thingy that the headlight sits in), there are two bolts. One goes straight up and down from the upper part behind the headlight socket and takes a 12mm socket. This holds the top part of the striker. Just offset from center toward the outside of the vehicle is another bolt that takes a 13 mm socket and is the only one you can really see. This one requires use of a universal to get to the socket. This is the only other bolt holding the strikers to the vehicle. Once you have the four bolts out, use something soft to gently pry the hood up and it will be released as normal from the center latch. I used the above method and succeeded in scratching the leading edge of my hood and the trailing edge of the grill.

Open your tailgate and there should be two screws. Your owner's manual should describe this procedure too. If you are replacing a bulb, see sources and related links below for bulb information.

There was no indication in records of any MPV 4-cylinder, only 6-cylinder. Call your Mazda auto dealer's service department and ask for the location of this fuse.

Check the bulbs they are double filamented with the smaller for stop and turn signals

Hello,

I found the info you want but it is impossible for me to explain because I am learning about these trucks myself.

I bought a 1984 B2000 workshop manual from Mazda for around $17.00 and it has full instruction for everything for your truck including a full teardown.

The information you want on Chapter 5: page 10 It has full pictures and exploded view of starting motor and solenoid.

I wish I could be more of a help because I DO know the frustration. I am going through it myself with a part that I can't find what it does. I even put up a site to ask for help.

http://nicknails.com/B2000/index.htm

Good luck on your B2000 because if you can keep it running, it's a great little truck.

Nick

I hate Dodges!! I dodge them every chance I get! LOL!! Now really.. Disconnect the negative (or positive) battery cable. You don't want to short anything out. Take the wires loose from the starter (there are small nuts that hold the wires on) and then the support bolts. It's really a pretty simple matter. Just make sure you have something soft to lay on while you are under there.

There is a ring that you must tap off in a counterclockwise motion. The sending unit will easily be removed. My 65 GT got a new tank and sending unit replaced in under 2 hours. Getting the tank off was somewhat harder to do because of the rubber boot that connects it to the gas neck. One strap bolt and some wiggleing and off it came. If your gas gague is broken your voltage limiter may be failing under the dash. If your temp gague and gas gague both are not working that is likely the cause. It gets worse. If the voltage limiter is bad there is a good chance that the gagues are ruined... Dodge may have all the parts for about 150 bucks. All the best.

You failed to mention what year the S10 is but, most of them use a fusible link to protect the alternator circuit.

Dead battery. Recharge it and see if it will start. If not, remove the battery and go have it tested.

DEPENDS ON THE MAKE AND MOTOR BUT MOST ARE A PRESS FIT INTO THE BLOCK WITH A RUBBER O RING AT THE BOTTEM. GOOD LUCK

There should be a fastner that secures the tube assembly near the top of the engine. after this is removed you should be able to just pull the tube right out of engine, you may find it comes out better if you twist it while pulling.

If the engine cranks over, but will not start or is difficult to start, it's either fuel or ignition. Too many possible causes to list. A repair shop which can extract engine codes and accurately diagnose problem. Simple things to try: 1. check clogged air filter 2. check clogged fuel filter 3. check worn out plugs, cap, rotor 4. examine vacuum hoses for leaks

Remove the right front wheel and splash guard (rubber curtain) the starter will be right in front of you. You can not remove it from the bottom of the truck, it will not fit out that way. From the wheel well you will still need to manuever it around a bit, but that is how it comes out.

Unscrew the panel under the steering wheel, and you should see it bolted underneath. Really easy to replace.

It's most likely programmed within one of the vehicles computers and not something physical that can be removed. Re-programming the computer may be the only method of defeating this safety device.

Remove the dash trim around the gauge cluster and radio. It helps to put the shifter in 1st to get it out. Remove the upper and lower steering column covers. Disconnect the air bag(unhook the battery first). You'll have to remove the steering wheel to gain access to one of the bolts that holds the tumbler housing to the column. I think there are 3 in total, they are torx heads. Remove those bolts and the housing will come off.

If I misunderstood the question and all you want to replace is the plastic switch that is turned by the tumbler when the key is turned. You can get to that by just removing the plastic around the column. Below the key you will see the big wiring harness.(disconnect the battery) This piece can be pulled out of the bottom of the tumbler housing with a screw driver. Once it's out you will see what the tumbler actually is turning when you turn the key.

if its a v-6 remove the RF tire, remove the 4 10mm bolts on the inner fender shield and the clips that secure the rubber shield. this will give you enough clearance to remove the starter. remove the front splash shield and you can see the starter on the passenger side of the engine. remove the small wire, remove the large wire with a 12mm socket on a long enough extension to reach it from the bottom of the veh. The rest is acedemic, a couple of bolts and a little twisting of the starter it will come out right through the wheel well.

The switch is located at the shift lever input to the transmission. If you look down right next to the power brake booster, you should see the switch on top of the transmission. When you buy the replacement switch it will come with installation instructions. READ THEM. The trans must be in Neutral to get the new switch (or old one) reinstalled in the correct position!

The easiest and quickest way to change the heater core in your 1988 GMC Jimmy is to remove the water from the cooling system. Remove the water lines from the heater core. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new heater core.

The relay and fuse are probably on the firewall, under the hood. Occasionally GM puts it behind a plastic cover. Fuel pump gets 12 volts, but it is turned off once the pressure is built and if the computer determines that the engine isn't running within a few seconds.

If you want to do it yourself procure the Haynes Manual for your unit. Part number 24046 '90-94.: There may be a couple of sensors, the procedure below is for the 24x sensor if fitted. remove the drive belt. raise the car and support on jackstands remove the crankshaft pulley remove the bolt and the sensor wiring harness bracket. Note well the routing of the wiring as you must replace it as installed at the factory. remove the sensor mounting bolts and pull the wiring harness. reverse the procedure to install. After disturbing the seensor the crankshaft variation relearn procedure may be required. If the engine MIL light illuminates take it to a dealer and get them to reset the system for you. To replace the 7x sensor, disconnect the wire, remove the bolt holding the sensor in th eblock and withdraw the sensor. make sure you replace the O-ring after lubing it with engine oil.

1. engine won't start. 2. All you get is a click when you turn the key. (make sure that you have a good battery) 3. You hear a whirring sound but the engine does not crank. (the starter motor turns but the bendix does not engauge. 4. You hear this gosh awful screaming sound. (the starter spins but does not engauge the flywheel completely.) Probably a lot more but these have happened to me over the years. You can take the starter off (if you are mechanically inclined) and some auto parts stores will test them for you. Auto Zone does where I live.

it should be under the passanger side floor board.

They put them in the fuel tank now days! To get at it you need to remove the tank and you get the pump from the top. NO there is no other way then removing the tank. The pump is $90 at most stores. No, you do not need the sending unit also. Buy the strainer also or they do not warranty the unit. Yes, I think an access hole makes sense also!