Chevy Tracker

I have a 2002 Chevy S-10 pickup and the radio will stay going for about 5 minutes after shutting the truck off. But if I have the door open and turn off the engine the radio instantly is turned off. This is to save on the battery, the radio takes out the battery fast and then not have enough power to start the truck up. I have been there a few times myself.

Start by disconnecting both battery terminals/cables,then remove hold down bolt and bracket. Remove battery, then battery tray. disconnect or remove temperature sensor from battery tray. Remove air cleaner assembly. Remove oil cooler hoses . Disconnect input speed sensor connector. Disconnect output speed sensor connector. Disconnect solinoid /presure switch assembly connector.Remove gearshift cable from manual valve.Disconnect gearshift cable from upper mount bracket and secure out of way. Remove starter motor upper mounting bolt.

Raise vehicle on hoist if available or axle stands (as high as possible) Remove halfshafts(driveshafts) Remove all brackets /braces etc from bellhousing area(around torque converterarea) Remove starter motor and position out of way. Remove converter dust shield then remove torque converter to drive plate/flex plate bolts. Remove lower transaxle to engine bolts. Support engine with a screw jack and wooden block. Remove transaxle upper mount through bolt then lower engine/transaxle assembly with screw jack.Position and secure transmission jack to transaxle. Remove the two transaxle bellhousing to engine block upper bolts.Check that all bell housing bolts are now removed,all wiring ,cables ,brackets etc.are removed.Then with prybar/large screwdriver pry transaxle bellhousing away from engine.

This guide can be used (with minor differences)for manual transaxles as well. Good luck with the project.Be SAFETY AWARE AT ALL TIMES when working under a vehicle.

Yes it is. Mine bent 6 valves. When the upper timing chain guide broke and chewed up the rest of the guides and gears.

If the valves were bent than the engine is an INTERFERENCE ENGINE. A non interference engine has clearance between the valves and the cylinder head so if the timing belt lets go and the valves are in the intake or exhaust position they would clear the cylinder heads causing no damage to either.

So the answer to your question is NO the engine is not an non interference engine

in the glove compartment, You cant see it unless you bend down and look up towards the top of the glove compartment on the right side. It's a pull handle.

Draw a diagram of how the belt is routed around the pulleys. There should be two belts. One is a serpentine and loops around all the accessories. The other is a small one that runs the fan. Looking down at the engine from the top front you will notice that there are two pulleys that are smooth (no grooves). The lower pulley that is slightly to the left is the tensioner. Attach the correct size socket to the nut here with a long handled wrench. The handle should be sticking up into the air towards the hood. Now pull the handle to the right turning the socket clockwise. This will move the pulley and release the tension on the belt. Quickly slide the belt off here and slowly release the socket and handle. Remove the rest of the belt from all the pulleys and slide it forward towards and over and around the fan. Using the diagram you drew put in the new belt in the reverse order. The instructions above helped me--took less than 20 minutes. Thanks. However, for a 2003 Chevy Tracker with a 4 cylinder engine, you should know that the Serpentine belt can be replaced without having to deal with the fan belt (which is clever engineering--the fan belt is entirely within the circumventing of the serpentine belt). On my Tracker, the pulleys and belt travel are arranged starting at the top left (facing the engine): steering pump pulley, idler pulley, water pump pulley, A/C pulley,(dual) crankshaft pulleys (with fan belt pulley attached), tensioner pulley, idler pulley (back to steering pulley). To deal with the tensioner, I put a 14mm socket on a rachet (with an old VW tire tool on the ratchet handle as a short extension--you could also use a small but stout pipe) and followed the instructions above. The belt loosened easily. It took some wiggling to get it out from under the upper idler pulley. Notice which way the printing goes on the old belt and put the new one in the same (if you think it is correct). Re: Fan Belt (2003 Chevy Tracker with a 4 cylinder engine)--took about 30 minutes. The fan belt is a small three-ribbed belt that rides the smaller Crankshaft pulley and turns the Fan only. The belt cannot be removed over the plastic fan (poor engineering, as opposed to superior engineering on the serpentine belt). If you look down at the front of the engine where the water pump ordinarily sits, the fan pulley is there instead. The water pump pulley is to the right on our 2003 Chevy Tracker and can be discerned because it has a large radiator hose attached. The fan pulley has no water couplings. It's attachment to the engine is offset to the right with two bolts (14 mm socket; upper and lower) that have adjustment cutouts (I marked their positions with chalk). The third bolt (in the middle, it does not attach to the engine) as best I could tell is to help you adjust the tension of the fan belt by putting a 14 mmm socket on it and pressing to the right. When you loosen the upper and lower bolts (both of which have washers), the fan belt loosens (leave the middle bolt alone). Take out both top and bottom bolts. The fan, it's shaft, and the fan shaft bearing housing ("fan assembly" let's call it) all come off together (don't take anything apart). Then exchange the old belt for the new one (slip over the back of the bearing housing). Notice which way the printing is oriented on the old belt and put the new one in the same way (if you think the old one was on correctly). Let it hang on the fan shaft. Re-install the fan assembly and its two bolts (with washers), align and fit the belt on the Crankshaft and Fan pulleys, and use the middle bolt to tighten the belt (not too much, I have no torques to give you).

Park pawl gear is broken.

if its a standard it might not have the E brake on but if its an automatic well the ya your parking gear is broken

sounds like your clutch needs to be replaced, could be a pre-exsisting problem with your transmission if you bought it from someone else privately. people do not really take care of their transmissions, it may be due for a flush as well as a little tlc....if its grinding and clunking you may need to replace the whole thing. but first check out all the gears, solenoids, filters, and flush the tranny before taking your tracker apart.

Roughly speaking, a 4WD 4 door '99 tracker will get about 380 miles per tank, which combined city/highway driving with a 2 passenger load averages out to about 24 MPG... depending on vehicle size (2/4 door, 2/4WD), load, condition, engine size,, etc, you can get up to 38MPG

You don't need to take the whole back panel off to do it!!(learned the hard way) the light cover on the bulb twists out, and it might take some elbow grease to twist it, then the bulb is easy to change.

In the glove box as are all older trackers

I have this situation as well, so I called the local Chevrolet dealership

( Thoroughbred Chevrolet ) in Chandler, AZ, and found that they had some of the color combos

( lettering plus contrasting dropshade on the lettering )

in stock that reads 'TRACKER' @ $70.00 ea. ( That's $140.00 for two 18.75 in decals! )

I passed on that price, but you may be insterested.

open your rear cargo door and look to the left side ...door will have a small turn knob and will be removed front to back.... this will be located inside the Tracker behind the driver side tail light

I had the same problem with my 02. had to replace the EGR Valve.

if its on the inside of the cylinder, its a blown headgasket that's leaking your water/antifreeze.

I dont know about changing the clutch, but I can tell you that they are adjustable! I just had mine adjusted!

I pulled the engine, had no vehicle hoist so lifted the engine out. Worked real well as all the clutch parts are in front of you while engine is in the air; except throughout bearing.

It is much easier to remove the transfer case and tranmission, rather than removing the engine. Here is the procedure:

Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove shift control lever Remove console box, then console box bracket. Push gear shift control case cover down with fingers, then turn it clockwise, and remove shift control lever, Remove shift control lever following the same procedure. Remove transfer case shift control knob. Remove breather hose from attaching clamp at the rear of the engine cylinder head. Remove wiring harness clamp from the rear of intake manifold, then disconnect wiring harness connector. Remove starter, then engine to transmission retaining bolts. Drain oil from transmission and transfer case if front propeller shaft is to be removed or transmission serviced. Remove flange bolts from rear propeller shaft universal joint, then pull out rear propeller shaft. Remove flange bolts from front propeller shaft universal joint, then remove front propeller shaft. Remove clutch cable from clutch cable mechanism, then clutch housing lower plate. Remove center exhaust pipe assembly, then remove speedometer cable from transfer case. Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission, then remove rear engine crossmember, Remove transmission/ transfer case assembly. Then remove transmission wiring harness and breather hose if necessary. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten universal joint flange bolts to specifications. Tighten transmission to engine attaching bolts to specifications.

5w30 conventional or synthetic is your choice.

0.060 Plug gap.

It is possible the rubber lines at the calipers are collapsing causing a suction which will not allow the brakes to release. might want to check that.

Had same issue replaced lines and calipers wheel bearing and found it to be an abs issue the pressure is not releasing

1500lbs but your tracker can not properly tow that much weight because there was no factory tow packages that came for or with trackers, they are all after market, therefore you will need a transmission cooling system or you will fry your transmission and damage your transfer case possibly even your rear axle.

If you feel any vibration or shimmy in the steering wheel or if you feel the same things in the vehicle you have a tire out of balance. As you need to rotate your tires at least every 10,000 miles that is a good time to have the tire balance checked.

I bought a 99 LTZ new and just passed 90,000 miles. I've replaced 2 batteries and one set of brakes(at 60,000 mi) and I just put on the 3rd set of tires, counting the factory new tires. I'm an outside salesman, so I stop/start a lot.I had to have the drivers seat re-covered once. Never had a real problem. I'm planning on replacing this Summer with Impala, probably an SS. I have a '99 Lumina LTZ. Had it for 9 months now. It had 65000 kms.(can) and it now it has 80000. No significant trouble. Brakes may need to be replaced soon. Not too impressed with the stopping power of the Lumina. Gas mileage is ok. Depending on how and where you drive. Constant stop and go traffic. City where there are a lot of hills will burn more gas. Remember it's a 3800 series V6 200 HP. Awesome power. The interior is perfect. Well you still get the plasticy GM buttons. But layout is good. Seats are comfortable. Visibility is great. I have read on the internet that its a must to get an extended warranty so i got one. Not needed yet. Dealer serviced. Power steering pump has a slight leak. Overall i love the car. If your looking for room with a family but still want the guy next to you at the red light to eat dust if you feel like it. Then the LTZ is a great answer.

Hi, Acording to the book I have, if you have a reset switch, it should be mounted under the left-hand side of the instrument panel. The way the picture looks, it should be right near the steering wheel. Yiu need to remove the panel under the steering wheel to get at it easily, that should be just a few screws. Good luck. Steve H.

The front brakes are held in place with two Allen bolts running from the back of the brakes to the front. They are hidden behind black plastic covers. Flick off covers and undo the7mm Allen bolts and remove the same.

Wriggle the calliper until it comes off in your hand but don't allow the weight of the calliper to be supported by the brake line. Tie it up with a piece of string.

Pull the pads out from the clips and disgard.

Undo the brake fluid reservior under the bonnet and allow it to sit on the top of the neck so any excess fluid can run free when pushing the callipers back in. Ensure you don't get the fluid on your bodywork as it will strip the paint off.

never Use a G clamp to push the piston back in !but only a couple of millimeters as you may damage the seal. Just enough so that with the new pads in place you can fit the calliper back snuggly over the disc.

Ensure you have used Copper grease on the pad springs.gsf pagid copper replacement grease !

One fitted back onto disc snuggly replace the Allen bolts and tighten.don't forget the spring clips otherwise pads will chatter in calipers !

Repalace the reserviour cap and pump the brake pedal slowly until the pads reset onto the disc. Don't push the pedsal all the way down, just an inch at a time until you have firm prake movement.not needed till all together and fluid cap back on ,

The rear brakes are similar but you have to wind the pistons back in using a special tool. You can use mole grips to turn the piston clockwise until it goes in just enough to enable the calliper to fit back over the disc with the new pads in place. Take your time and everything will go to plan.poss front pistons will require winding back as well depends on model ..and never use mole grips that will definitely dammage the seals !

If it is an automatic it will not have a clutch safety switch it will have a neutral safety switch

I have the same problem on my 98, honest to god, I get out of the car, put my shoulder on the rear and rock the car back and forth as if I were tryin to push someone stuck in the snow or mud. Works everytime.