Chevy Tracker

The timing mark is on the crank pulley, a little " V " cut. It gets aligned with the 8 degree BTDC mark on the degree scale just above the crank pulley on the timing belt cover. Use an induction timing light hooked up to the #1 spark plug wire (front of engine) and the battery. Painting the timing marks white helps to see. I use white out. Works good.

Yes Type "S" chains only page 5-71 of the manual. on drive axles on 4 wheel do both axles.regards HHH

under the left dashboard. Also under the hood right near the battery.

use an impact and it will break the bolt lose. You will have to mod or buy a tool to torque it down to spec

passenger side of engine about 4 inches below intake manifold, slightly forward of center

A good place to look would be your local wrecking yards.

The proper psi setting for P205 75R15 tires on a 2003 Chevy tracker is stamped on the

sidewalls near the tire size number and it may not be the same PSI from one brand (as

Michelin) to another (Bridgestone).

4 quarts 4 quarts

The crankshaft SENSOR shouldn't be much trouble. It's location depends on the manufacturer and the engine type. Check in one of the manuals that cover your car, like Haynes or Chilton and it shoud give you reasonably accurate information on the location of the crankshaft sensor. If you need to replace the crankshaft, first, remove the engine... Yes, it can be a pain but the biggest piece of machinery you will need is an engine lift.

Passenger side, near the bottom of the engine, just behind the exhaust manifold. It bolts to the back of the engine and sticks through the bell housing to the flywheel.

just got a quote for $1000 in chicago. seems high, so I'm shopping it around.

I believe that 1996 and newer are OBDII, any auto partsrepair shop or dealer can tell you, I have a 97 and it's OBDII, Mike All cars and light trucks built and sold in the United States after January 1, 1996 were required to be OBD II equipped. In general, this means all 1996 model year cars and light trucks are compliant, even if built in late 1995. Two factors will show if your vehicle is definitely OBD II equipped: 1) There will be an OBD II connector that has 16 pins. The connector must be located within three feet of the driver and must not require any tools to be revealed. Look under the dash and behind ashtrays. 2) There will be a note on a sticker or nameplate under the hood: "OBD II compliant".

Haynes makes a 86-01 Suzuki/Tracker manual that is pretty good.

my 1990 has 4" speakers hole in the back but i have 5" speakers in there now.

Yes! No, not the right fit.

with a rev counter

I don't really know how to change a block heater in a tracker, but the following may help. First, I'm assuming your block heater doesn't work. If so have you checked the plug and cord? An easy way to do this is to find or buy an analog volt-ohm meter (one with a needle instead of a digital readout). Then, set it to any ohm (resistance) setting and touch the leads to the two plug prongs (ignore the ground prong). Try not to let your fingers touch the metal part of the probes or the plug. If the needle sweeps and stays at any resistance witout moving, it means your block heater is okay. If it doesn't move and just stays at an infinite resistance, then it's possible your plug, or cord is damaged. This is not uncommon and it happened to me. First, buy a new three pronged plug at a hardware store, and cut the old one off as close to the old plug as possible (no point in wasting cable). Then wire the new plug on. (This is alternating current so the wires shouldn't matter as long as green is to the ground prong). Then test again. If there still is infinite resistance, then you must replace the cord. Follow the cord until you find where it plugs into the block. On a 2.0L I4, it should be down around the exhaust manifold, so do this when the engine is cold. With a good tug, it should come unplugged and that is where you would plug in the new cord, which would be purchased at an auto parts store, or dealer if necessary. I hope this is of use. My block heater stopped working last winter and I was about to get it replaced when someone showed me how to do this, and it ended up just being a faulty plug (corrosion, moisture and other wear and tear over time), so hopefully that is all that is wrong with yours. Good luck!

Yes. Available here -

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/suzuki/Sidekick_Hardtops.htm

It has been my experience that what the manufacturer used is the BEST choice. Your truck came with AC Delco and they will give you the best and longest performance.

i need to know how to remove heater cor

i need to know how to remove heater cor

Did you try blowing it out with an air hose first, usually they just get clogged up , never bad enough to replace unless rusted and leaking

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional manual available...in the reference section, you'll have to make copies of the important sections...good luck :)

One that has been put on a machine and weights added to compensate for any imbalance/imperfection caused either by wear or by the mfg. process (on new tire)

Hi, I've found the easiest way to replace the bulb is first remove the center console, just 4 screws. I took this time to clean and wash it, rather my wife did. The remove the two screws near the dash side of the shift console, now there are two screws at the rear of the shift console that just need to be loosened because that end of the shift console has two slotted plastic tabs the screws go over, these are easy to break ( I have broken one) the screws are a pain to loosen too. then just raise the shift console and remove the light bulb from it's socket ( a half or quarter turn ) and remove the bulb from its socket. Now just reverse all the steps. If you have the time or patience left, you can vacumn everywhere ( I did ). One problem I had was that the wires that are at the socket were broken so I went to a local auto-recycler ( junk yard ) and went and found a bulb socket assy and removed it, paid for it ($5.00 ) and instaled it. I hope this helps and good luck. Steve H.

ITEM IS LOCATED ABOVE LICENSE PLATE AS STATED........MY HANDLE WAS SO RUSTED IT WOULDNT MOVE..........SO IF YOU ARE THE SAME.....GET IN THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE...REMOVE THE PLASTIC PIECES ON THE INSIDE OF THE TAILGATE.........PUSH THE MIDDLE OF THE BUTTON THINGS HOLDING ON THE PLASTIC.....WITH A SMALL FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER REMOVE THE BUTTON THINGS........THEN WHEN ALL BUTTONS REMOVED .....TAKE OF PLASTIC PIECE......................INITIALLY YOU WILL SEE FOUR 10 MM NUTS.... REMOVE THE OUTER TWO.......THIS WILL THEN REMOVE THE COVER TO THE HANDLE........

YOU WILL THEN PROB NOTICE THAT THE HANDLE IS RUSTED LIKE NO OTHER.....YOU CAN ATTEMPT TO LUB HANDLE UP AND MIGHT MOVE........BUT I WAS NOT SO LUCKY..GOOD LUCK