Chevy Vans

350.

Plugged air filter? Plugged fuel filter? Bad catalytic converter? Worn timing chain? Check the 8th digit of the vehicle identification number and see if it is a "W". If so the fuel injectors require 65 pounds of pressure to operate. If it is not a "W' then it requires 15 pounds. In other words check the fuel pressure.

I went to AutoZone.com. They have detailed instruction. I have a 98 Astro van. They didn't have the repair proceedure for 98. I checked an earlier year, 93 I think, and found the same setup. The problem I'm having is getting the old nut loose that holds the shock rod to the upper control arm. The only way to keep the rod from turning, is with a tiny wrench on the flat spot on the top of the rod. Not nearly enough leverage to loosen a nut that hasn't been off in a long time. I'm beginning to consider torch. Any ideas?

Check fuel filter and carburetor or fuel injectors if so equipped. Some older cars with Carburetors have a fuel filter where the fuel line enters the Carb. Provide year and engine specifics for a better answer.

There are two types of doors on an auto heater/A/C system--mode doors and blend doors. The mode doors change the direction of the flow of air from the floor to the vents to the defrost. The blend doors change the temperature. The doors in your car are moved by vacuum motors. Either you have a leak in the vacuum line or the vacuum motor is bad. Most often it's a leaking vacuum line or switch. Check those out first.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

You can use nearly any weight oil 10 w 30 and up , but synthetic is not recommended for an auto that old.

210 HP

Under the driver's seat.

Oil capacity is 10 US quarts plus a small amount for the filter +.5 quart.

The whistling sound coming from near the transmission could be a problem with a speed sensor. It is possible that the speed sensor is attached only at one end. This sensor has two places where it is attached.

yes if the engine and trans. are both Chevy or Buick or Oldsmobile Buick/Oldsmobile and Pontiac will inter change but Chevy has to go with Chevy

We get this from time to time. Usually you can get to the mechanism unless it has a guard over it. Then you have to have patience and luck. Find the cable where it comes out to the grill and try to disconnect the cable jacket from where it is held onto the latch. Then pull the whole cable, inside and out, together as a unit. Don't let the inner core move independently from the outer sheath. The idea is to grab the whole cable and pull on it and the latch should open. You have to disconnect the outer sheath from where it is attached to the latch for this to work. Sometimes you can remove the grill and see where the latch bolts on. Then remove the bolts and the hood and latch will come up as an assembly. Then you can unlatch the hood from the latch once everything is out in the open and visible.

"IN my case the cable actually came out of the latch. So I could pull on that sucker till the cows came home, but it wasn't gong to help. I just removed the front grill plastic. Four little torx head screws and then I unlatched it with a screw driver. Took about 20 minutes."

That answer worked perfectly! Then I cut away the plastic shroud inside the car around the broken lever and removed the lever mounting bracket (three hex head screws) with a socket and ratchet. Then exposed a couple of inches of cable by cutting away the wire reinforced plastic sleeve. Then clamped an inexpensive pair of locking pliers to the bare cable such that it would not only be handy for releasing the latch in the future, but also to serve as a weight to prevent any slack in the cable from causing the other end to jump out of the hood latch again. Also, make sure that the rubber grommet is still properly seated in the firewall hole to keep dangerous fumes from entering the passenger space. It is easily accessed from the inside.

Jack up vehicle loosen the 10 differential bolts using a screwdriver pry off pressed steel cove allow oil to drain , clean metal magnet off located inside diff cover, clean both mating sides to cover and differential housing, replace with a gasket which you buy at the local parts dealer with 80/90 weight gear oil, put gasket on torqued to specified tightness, remove check fill plug passenger side differential fill to the quantity specs and that it (note use a wheel blocking system before performing this task 1/2 inch socket required to take differential bolts off , gasket costs $6.00 same as rtv sealer but way easier and less messy to use.

5 Quarts

your mom

Either on a flatbed or rear wheels up

Where is the ERG valve located on a Chevy Vandura 5.7 350 engine?

Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and you will see a housing that the hose clamps to and it will be under that housing

It's part of the electronic engine controls.

FIRST BLOCK THE REAR WHEELS SO IT DON'T ROLL WHEN YOU REMOVE THE DRIVESHAFT. Then take a screw driver and pop the rear seal out of the transmission tail shaft housing and then tap the new seal in with a hammer being carefull not to bend the seal.

significa que tu liftgate en la parte posterior de tu coche está abierta

what are fusible links

Yes, someone could conceivably show me a diagram of a 1979 Chevy 454 belt configuration. Actually I know a guy that could probably draw me one if I asked him to.

Hi,

That particular code - P0560 - says that the PCM (Powertrain Control Module or "engine computer") has detected that the "System Voltage" is not correct.

This usually means that either your battery is going bad, or you have a poor connection between the battery and the PCM - at the monitoring point. What you will need is to test the battery - at least as a starting point - and then move on from there.

Good Luck, Greg

Check them for any play. If you detect any play whatsoever they arebad and need replacing.