Chrysler LeBaron

The fuel filter on a 1992 Chrysler LeBaron is located under the car, near the right rear wheel. If you lay down next to the right rear wheel, just about at the middle of the rear door (if you have a sedan), you should see the filter. It'll be a round metal thing near a bunch of hoses.

The short answer is YOU don't. The smartest thing to do is get the shop manual, read that section, talk yourself out of it, then drop the car off at your local garage and pay a professional. If you're still in a do-it-yourself mood, read on. Jack the car up and support the front end with jackstands. Remove the wheel. Unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut. Remove both of the big nuts/bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Open the hood and remove the 3 bolts from the strut tower. The strut assembly should have fallen out onto the ground. Here's where the fun begins. Use your strut compressor to unload the spring. Remove the big nut on the top and pull off the upper bearing and spring seats. Remove the spring and carefully (carefully! it CAN kill you) set it aside. Reassemble everything in order and reinstall your spring. Use the air ratchet to preload the top nut. Tighten to spec. Release the spring compressor. Put the strut assembly back up the the tower, lining up the 3 boltholes up top. Replace the 3 nuts, tighten to spec. Pull your spindle back up with a c-clamp and install the 2 large nuts/bolts. Tighten to spec. Replace the brake line bracket bolt. Tighten to spec. Carefully drive to the nearest alignment shop because your alignment will be way off. you can take srut assembly out as mentioned above then have auto parts store change struts for you and put back whole strut assembly back in.they charge about$20 for changing each strut and is well worth the job .

Not familiar with your car, does your car have a fancy compass on the rearview mirror? Or perhaps an antenna build into it? Or maybe just lights underneath the mirror. That'd be a good place to start. If not, something was probably knocked loose or disconnected during installation. If you haven't already, try checking fuses and the like.

You can use a scan tool, or unhook the battery.

You can use a scan tool, or unhook the battery.

Look down into the engine bay and the starter is behind the manifold on the right side of the engine. 1. Disconnect the red lead on the battery 2. Raise the front of the car and support on jackstands.. DO NOT WORK BENEATH AN UNSUPPORTED VEHICLE 3. Label and disconnect the wires from the terminal and solenoid. 4. Undo the three bolts that hold in the starter. Install is reverse of removal Time.. under 1hr

It is very difficult to remove the doors without removing the fender(s) and the door harness from withing the panel(s). Here is the basic procedure..

1) Disconnect the battery

2) Remove the panel (There is excellent information on how to this on this site)

3) Beginning with the courtesy light in the corener, disconect all the components such as pwr windows, door locks. pwr mirror etc from the main harness..There is rubber grommet that feedss through the side of the door that has to be loosen also to allow the harness to be fished out.

4) Once the harness. you will have to remvoe the plastic weather stribppinb from within the wheel housing..This is done by unsapping the plastic puch on screws..Do not try to save them as they are cheap and readily available at any parts place..

5)Start on the upper insde of the fender and remove all the attach scres along the edge//Ot might help if you make a mark to allighn things back up later..go all the ay down the side and front..Some of the attaching screws are not really seen and you will have to look for them..A 1/4 inch air wrench and long extensions makes this job easier. The uppe part of the bumber/head light assy will become loose if you have done all the attaching bolts and allow you to move the assembly forward enoght to clear the fender..

6) if you have remove all the attachments, the fender should be easy to remove..

7) Once the fender is removed. the door can than be removed by taking out 3 bolts on the top and bottom, being carful to support it so as not damage the harness until it can be fished out from the door fram...

8) Have plenty of beer and fun

Lift up the trunk and pull the felt cardboard away from right below the third taillight, and you can get to the lightbulb housings...there are two...from there, the hardest part is finding the bulb size (standard stuff for auto parts stores). Takes all of ten min. tops.

Idle speed is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through the idle air control (IAC) motor and is not adjustable. If idle is outside spefified RPM, or is rough or unstable, clean the throttle body.. and if necessary.. got get a minimum idle air flow test done.. NOTE: some models are equipped with a factory adjusted throttle plate set screw. DONT attempt to adjust throttle idle speed using this screw unless you are directed to during a service procedure (alldata)

Automatic transmission fluid.

Automatic transmission fluid.

On eBay there about $160 to $200 dependiing on if you need the rear window. You'll have to remove back seats to get at the complete convertible frame. The tops will come with instructions. Its a lot of work and very time consuming plan for a whole weekend.

1-Go behind rear seat and remove vinyle and cardboard covering.2-Locate the motor/hydrolic fluid reservoir (if on knees in rear seat facing rear window will be on right side).3-On right side of motor unit will be a rubber stopper, remove this and with a large plastic syringe, remove hydrolic fluid.4-Replace rubber stopper and the convertible top can then be operated manually.Remember, if you want to operate top electrically again, fluid must be replaced.

To be honest.. borrow or buy a Haynes.. the 1987 - 1995 models differ.. for example I've got the 90 conv.. it has discs and calipers alround not a front discs and rear drum pads assembly. Check out EBAY.. I got a Haynes there for a 5er and 2 bucks shipping..

if by throttle body sensor, you mean idle air control valve, it is below the tps on the 3.0 it has two star tip screws and one plug .. easy cheezie batman

Check engine light, poor fuel economy, cuts out, mis fires, stumbles, hesitation, black smoke,

yeah-ive had this same prob and half to re-train myself every spring forward -fall back ...1st turn radio "on" then at the buttons on the right hand side of the radio- 1. press the "set" button once,(thie puts it into clock mode), then 2. press the "sel" select button once, (this puts it into hour change mode), then 3. using the tuning/seek button-and pressing either up or down to move the "hour" forward or backwards, then/or 4. press the "sel" button once more time/or twice (this puts it in minute change mode) and use seek button to move the minutes forward or backwards, and hopefully you are done, to get out of the settings mode - just wait 1-2 minutes and it defaults back to radio controls

Hi..I recently had troubles with my alero, and it was the intake manifold gasket, which i guess is a common problem with 2000 alero's...i would get that checked out

First, there is a fan relay mounted under a black plastic cover on the drivers side inner fender. There is also a "coolant temp sensor" which tells the computer to turn on the fan. This is mounted on top of the engine, next to the thermostat housing. It simply unscrews to replace it. Before changing it tho' check that the fan is working. With the engine running, pull the connector off the coolant temp sensor, the fan should start working. If not then the fan motor or the fan relay are faulty.

It is located on the throttlebody, on the drivers side of the intake plenum. The IAC motor will be facing the rear of the engine, below the Throttle Position Sensor and is attached to the throttlebody by 2 Torx screws.

DOT 3

The firing order for the 3.0 V6 is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Standing at the front of the car facing the windshield the number 1 piston is at the left rear near the firewall. Number 2 piston is at the left front nearest you. Number 3 piston is at the center back near the firewall. Number 4 is center nearest you at front. Number 5 is at right back by the firewall and number 6 is at right front nearest you.

Most would be

Most would be

The tachometer may not be working on a 1995 Chrysler LeBaron because the cable may be bad. Check to ensure the cable is not broken or kinked.

The drive motors for the rear sit at the bottom of the window wells. Water runs into the area, and if the drain holes are not kept clear then water builds up above the level of the vent holes in the bottom of the motors. The entire window assemble can be removed, held by only three bolts (don't cut the back of your hands in this area). Either replace the motors, or clean the insides of the brush and contact area with a dremel wirewheel. Lube with white grease do slow the return of the corrosion.

No.

Need more info - which engine? 2.2/2.5? By 1989 no LeBaron had a carb.