Construction Tools

It really comes down to a number of things... your own preferences being among them. I won't use anyone else's ratchets but Snap-On's, for example, but I hate their hammers, and prefer Mac's single piece hammers. A lot of air tools for Mac, Cornwell and Matco are made by Ingersoll, whereas Snap-On makes their own, and some are better, some are not. I'm partial to Mac's "Precision Torque" wrenches vs. anyone else's. My second choice for combination wrenches are the "no slip" ones from Carlysle (a NAPA brand).
Craftsman can be a crap shoot, as their tools have been manufactured by various manufacturers over the years... some better than others. But no way is Craftsman better than Mac.
If you think mechanics have homogenous tool sets exclusive to only one brand, that's the case typically with only the highest paid and most eccentric of mechanics... in my own tool set, I have Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, King Tony (KT Pro), Craftsman, SK, Proto, GP, Carlysle, and many others.
For my at-home set, for working on my own stuff... it's mostly from Harbor Freight, although I did choose Carlysle for the ratchets and Craftsman and Husky for the wrenches.
Buying professional grade tools is worthwhile for a professional... if you're doing a bit of shade tree mechanic work, you have no use for anything that expensive.

What I have done to my 1974 T.I. is ;

Fit the 505 alloy wheels 15 inch by 6 with any good quality 195/60 series tyres (205 size I think is too big for the rim, the tyre tends to walk across the rim width and under hard cornering the tyre tends to rub against the front strut ). Start with tyre pressures 30 lbs in the front 32 at rear and work from there keeping 2 lbs more pressure at the rear than front. With my car I have lowered it 3.5 inches which is I think the maximum you can get away without altering suspension pivot points. Now you will have negative camber at the front wheels so alter the front wheel toe in to no more than 2mm toe OUT. Lastly and very important.... At the rear brake pressure regulator which works off the rear anti roll bar unscrew the adjustment one turn for every inch you lower the car. Unaltered the regulator thinks you have a full load and gives you full brake pressure to the rear brakes...... sideways with rear brake lock up at 160 km is not pleasant !!. I am assuming that the shock absorbers / stabilisers are all good.

Watch out for the little "kick" you get from the rear end when going over bumps on high speed corners. All good fun !. Lower the car, add a spoiler, low profile 18" tyres and a phat bodykit!!! Add rear stabalisers

SUGGESTION: CHECK FOR A PLUGGED "CONDENSATE DRAIN TUBE" SOMEWHERE UNDER THE HOOD; PROBABLY CLOSE TO THE HEATER OR AIR CONDITIONER - YOU HAVE PROBABLY NOTICED CARS ON A HOT DAY DRIPPING WATER UNDER WITH THE A/C RUNNING. THIS IS THE WATER THAT IS DRAINING INSIDE YOUR CAR INSTEAD OF RUNNING OUT THE DRAIN TUBE TO THE GROUND. IF YOU LIVE OR PARK IN AN AREA WHERE THERE ARE SMALL TREE LEAVES OR SEEDS DROPPING, THEY CAN ENTER THE HEATER/AIR CONDITIONER'S FRESH AIR INTAKE AND SETTLE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PLENUM, EVENTUALLY COVERING THE HOLE LEADING TO THE OUTSIDE DRAIN. SAME AS A PLUGGED DOWNPIPE ON HOUSE ROOF GUTTERS. HINT TO FIND THE DRAIN TUBE - TURN ON THE HEATER/AIR FAN WITHOUT ENGINE RUNNING (SO YOU CAN HEAR IT). WITH IT RUNNING, LISTEN UNDER THE HOOD FOR ITS SOUND. THE DRAIN TUBE YOU ARE SEEKING WILL BE SOMEWHERE NEAR AND BELOW THIS AREA; THERE IS A CHANCE YOU CAN CLEAR THE OBSTRUCTION BY BLOWING BACKWARD THRU THE OPEN END OF THE TUBE. CANNOT GUESS WHAT'S ON YOUR CAR BUT USUALLY THESE TUBES ARE APPROXIMATELY 3/4" DIAMETER, 2 - 6" LONG POINTING STRAIGHT DOWN.

I believe it is so you can fire it as a one shot it keeps the next shell from coming out of the tube, you can load another shell by hand.... You are absolutely correct! Not all Mod 20's have that selector but that is what it is for. It prevents another shell from loading into the chamber when the action is moved.

Most lip rings are in the shape of a hoop and have a ball as a closure. Simply take the ball off and gently work the space in the hoop to the hole. (if the ring is too small you may have to bend the hoop a bit to make it larger)

it is unusual to build with "solid" blocks.. called CMU's..

most have holes through them

the most common used is 8 inches by 8 inches by 12 inches.

The general tools used by a mason for brick work/plastering are as follows: 1) Trowel (different kinds) 2) Plumb Line 3) Thread/Twine 4) Set Square/Right Angle 5) Level Tube 6) Measuring Tape 7) Tool for raking of joints. Apart from the above, a mason is required to have a spade, gammelas and other general equipment with him.

Put the string in place at the correct height at one end using a nail or other firm fastener. Hook the string level on the string and use it to insure the string is level before fastening the other end. Often used when building brick walls, fences and when putting in brick sidewalks to measure level.

Hot gluing is used lots in arts and crafts. Also, minor repairing of laminated surfaces around the home. Be careful when gluing surfaces that can melt with high heat, like Styrofoam - best to use regular glue for that.

Just a added note: I have received gifts (a bird house) that was put together with hot glue, it fell apart. there are better glues out there. Depending on the use and the material you are gluing, consider handling, indoor, outdoor, etc. Good-Luck!

These pyramids were generally built of earth and faced with stone; they are typically stepped pyramids and are topped by a platform or temple structure used for rituals. The Egyptian workers(artisans, craftsmen, etc) make the blocks for the outer pyramid (limestone) and the inner walls (granite).
Shortly after coming to the throne the Pharaoh would command his overseer of public works and architects to prepare a burial place in keeping with his status as a god-king, a launching pad to enable his soul to soar from the earth to join the gods and his ancestors in the heavens. The chosen site had to be on the west bank of the Nile where the sun set. The first stage was for the royal survey team to mark out the site. Great care was taken in orientating the site to the four points of the compass and in levelling the site to provide a foundation for the pyramid. When the slaves had cleared away the sand and rubble highly skilled masons were called in to level the foundations. This was done by cutting a grid of channels and filling them with water. The rock was then cut back to the water level to make it perfectly flat. Finally the water was drained away and the channels filled with rubble. At any one time as many as 20,000 workers may have been involved on this massive project. Some of them were free men doing particular tasks such as masons, tool makers, carpenters, scribes and overseers. Many of course were unskilled slave labourers. Most if not all of the slaves were naked. From the depression of the quarry come the clink-clink of copper chisels and the thump of rock hammers of the quarry slaves toiling under the hot sun. Their naked bodies are covered from head to foot with white dust giving them the appearance of ghosts. After the stone blocks are extracted from the quarry face they are lowered onto sledges and a mark is made on the stone by one of the scribes. This aided them to place the blocks in the pyramid just as they came out of the quarry ensuring a better fit than random blocks without further finishing. From dawn to dusk, gangs of slaves drag the sledges loaded with stones each weighing about two tons to staging areas at the base of the pyramid. Most of the stone blocks proceed up the ramp without future handling. Only a fraction of the stone blocks needed to be cut to precise dimensions by the masons. The slaves hauled the loaded sledges slowly up the clay and rubble ramp. Whether it was a single long or spiralling ramp depends on the size of pyramid. When the sledges reached the working level teams of slaves called setters shifted the blocks from the sledges into their designated positions. These naked men used only simple levers, brute force and experience gained from years of hard labour. Once the stones had been delivered the hauling gang would make their weary way down the ramp carrying their sledge, in order to make the same back breaking journey up as they would several times a day. Other slaves are employed in maintaining and extending the ramps as the pyramid grew. These ramps are made of rubble, bound together with desert tafla (a type of clay) and laid with planks to ease the passage of the sledges. Rows of slaves are seen breaking up waste material from the quarries, mixing them with the tafla and loading the finished mixture into baskets. Individual baskets are loaded onto the shoulders of slaves for delivery to the ramp builders on the pyramid. Granite came from Aswan located 400 miles to the south. Granite was used for the lining of the burial chamber and the internal passage leading to it or in some instances the lower courses of the pyramid. These blocks were the largest in size used on the structure, for example, some of the granite stones used on the Great Pyramid at Giza weighs up to 70 tons. Copper chisels used for quarrying limestone could not be used, a harder material was required. Balls of dolerite, a hard, black igneous rock, were used in the quarries of Aswan to extract the hard granite. These dolerite "pounders" were used to pulverize the stone around the edge of the granite block that needed to be extracted. Teams of slaves pound away for weeks in order to expose enough stone for the block to be extracted from the quarry. At the bottom, they ram wooden pegs into slots they have cut, and fill the slots with water. The pegs will expand and split the rock with a resounding crack much more impressive than anything heard with the softer limestone. With much cursing and sweat the slaves lower the great blocks onto sledges. As many as two hundred slaves, their naked bodies gleaming with sweat, drag the loaded sledges along a causeway to the river where they are loaded unto barges and floated downriver with the current to the pyramid site.

The sledge type hammer is thousands of years old. The original purpose of this type of hammer was probably to break rocks in mining operations. No one actually knows who invented it.

with stuff

Since the object is to scare people, chainsaws are suitably noisy and dangerous, and will definitely get your attention. No one who has seen or heard of "The Texas Chainsaw Massacre" (1974, remake 2003) has any doubt about its potential use as a deadly weapon.

If they are real 'side cutters' then they have flat jaws for gripping, and a wire cutter on one side. You don't see these around much any more. People have taken to calling 'diagonal wire cutters' , side cutters now.

Wilhelm Fein invented the portable electric drill in 1895.

Possibly, but you haven't mentioned thickness of the steel -8 x 24 is not enough info for that calculation.

"A hammermill is just a shredding device. There are different devices for different things, but pretty much any shredding device is considered a hammermill."

The interesting thing is that a hammermill can be used to shred Hammermill paper products.

The part the wheels are on lowers when they load the truck. The wheels are there so they don't drag it on the ground if they have to move the truck.

Those wheels are actually held down by hydraulic rams when the truck is heavy. The purpose is to bear the extra weight of the concrete, so there is less weight on each wheel. This enables the truck to move on softer ground and many bridges that have an axle weight limit.

why do we have diffrent numbers of teeth on a file

It is a third class lever.

Early (Stone Age) hammers were usually an oval or somewhat hourglass-shaped rock, leather-strapped to a wooden stick handle that split into a 'Y' shape to receive the head. The later renditions had a hole in the head of the hammer for the handle to stick through.

A four-inch diameter hardwood tree trunk could be used for a hammer head, with a one or one and a half inch stick used as a handle.

I, and many technical people have whole pages of lists like this in our diaries or notebooks. My list has all number drills and SAE and Metric comparable sizes.

You may find it easiest by Googling it and copying the list.

55%

Because it became tedious pounding things together with rocks. Necessity is the mother of invention.

A curved claw hammer is a lot like it sounds. One side of the metal portion of the hammer has a protruding curved portion. The curve has a split in the center that resembles a claw. It is used for prying. If a nail is sticking up, it can be gripped in the claw, and the hammer is rocked back using the curve. It uses leverage to pull the nail out of the wood.