CV Joints

the cv axle wasnt completely tightened causing the hub bearing to go out

when you turn hard either way, it will make a loud clicking or popping noise

Answer

U joints can last one heck of a long time unless you abuse them. Spinning your tires on dry pavement will certainly help to destroy them or spinning your tires on ice then hitting dry pavement will almost certainly end their life cycle. If you want your U joints to last as long or longer than the manufacturer says on the box that they come in, treat them with kindness, don't spin your tires unless you have no choice and you should get a couple of years out of them.

no it doesn't. that means you have a broken spindle or possibly, if you are lucky, very bad bearings. at worst broken upper or lower A-frame.

You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a remanufactured axle and replace it. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.

To replace the boot and/or halfshaft axle: First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.

check your your front and back diff

also check upper end of coil springs on front struts

Being Stranded miles from home.

Tearing up your differential and transmission.

Losing control of your car and wrecking it.

You are better off replacing it than risking it!

First, check the "boots" around the CV joints. If they are leaking grease or cracked or you see evidence of grease that was thrown from the CV joint, replace it. You won't get any more service out of it. Second, if the joint makes a grinding or popping noise when you go around a corner, replace it. In front-wheel drive cars, a sure sign of worn CV joints is a loud rhythmic clunking or clicking sound that comes especially while turning tight circles. It is commonly said that sound while turning right indicates a problem in the left drive-shaft's joint and vice-versa though this is not always the case.

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If you drove your car for too long and the pads were worn out then there will be small grooves or either big grooves from were the metal was rubbing against the rotor. If it has big grooves in it then they probably need to be changed or on some you can turn your rotor around and still use it. If it has small grooves it should be ok. Hope this is some help to you.

I would look for a tire that is out of round or a bent wheel. I would place each one on a balancer and watch the horizon of the tire for a out of round condition. Do the same for a possible bent rim. You see, you can balance a bent rim and a out of round tire...This should have been caught at that time. If your shop seems unresponsive to this, go to a different shop.

I have a bad left front driveshaft on my 2002 Impala 3.8 L v-6 and I need to know what is the easiest way to replace it. I am a a old Chevy master technitition but I have retired and I am look ing for any help I can get to make it easier for me to change it.

Often, you will hear a popping or clicking sound when you are in a turn.

Eventually, a warrant will be issued for your arrest. They will never serve this type of warrant personally to you, but, sooner or later when you need a police officers help, or you're ID or drivers license is ran, even if it's harmless at the time, (ten years later, in another state), that ticket will show up on a universal system that all officers have access to, from CA to NY, and the fines will be enormous, having collected penalties for years, and evading the law, etc....A simple ticket will eventually turn into a huge fine, a felony, and a very bad background and resume>>>

You need to replace your transmission. I had exactly the same problem; sounds like outer cv joints gone bad but only makes the noise in 1st and 2nd on accel. Some internal trans failure v common on 4cyl 626.

check for worn out brakes

check the wheel bearing - if it's a constant grinding noise, it is probably the bearing. New ones cost around $100 or so from an auto parts store. You can change it yourself if you have some skill, and you can actually do the change without removing the whole spindle assembly - the bearing is attached to the spindle by 3 bolts on the engine side of the spindle. Remember to take off the axle nut first, so that the bearing can just slide off of it. And also remember to disconnect the ABS sensor - and reconnect it when done.

broken motor mount(s)

Yes it can, and if it is, trust me this just happened to me, you got to fix it as fast as possible. If you just blow it off you can be looking at some dire consequences. 1) The CV joint can abruptly fail and you will lose all drive power, if one CV joint goes your differential will NOT power the other wheel. 2) if you are driving at a good click, the RPMs on the CV joint will cause it to fail and the CV joint will tear up the inside of your engine. 3) In rare occasions the failure could cause one of your wheels to lock up and you will lose most if not all control of your car. Moral of the story is do not drive any long distances from your house on a bad CV joint unless you have money to blow on a tow. You can buy a replacement CV joint at any Auto Parts store for 75-125 dollars, I advice to get one with a lifetime warranty. DO NOT DRIVE ON A BAD CV JOINT!

* Remove the wheel cover or hub cap.Remove the cotter pin * Break the hub nut loose with a socket and large breaker bar NOTE: If the socket will not fit through the opening in the center of the wheel install the spare * Loosen the lug nuts raise and support car securely on jackstands.Remove the wheel and drain the transaxle lubricant. * Detach the stabilizer bar link(s) from the control arm(s) * Separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle.Now remove the driveaxle/hub nut * Swing the knuckle/hub assembly out (away from the car) until the end of the driveaxle is free of the hub.If the driveaxle splines stick in the hub tap on the end of the driveaxle with aplastic hammer.Carefully pry the inner CV joint from the transaxle using a large screwdriver or prybar positioned between the CV joint housing and the transaxle housing.Support the outer end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire to avoid unnecessary strain on the inner CV joint * Support the CV joints and carefully remove the driveaxle from the vehicle

If it makes a clicking, grinding, rattling, or other noise when you accelerate with the steering turned it is not safe.

I would say it is the left axel shaft.

The fill plug is on the front of the transaxle case, about halfway up.