CV Joints

It take specific knowledge and tools. If you're thinking about doing it, buy a repair manual (Chilton manual) for your specific car. It will tell you exactly how to do it. If you're not mechanical, I'd have a mechanic do the work. It's a pretty difficult job and you really have to know what you are doing.

IN REVERSE, drive in a circle and listen for the clicking. CHECK YOUR REARVIEW FIRST. you won't mistake which side its on, the drivers side will be louder than the passenger side for obvious reasons. best practice is, if you have 1 bad CV Joint, change them both (R+L) if you have bad inner and outer joints, change the entire shafts on both sides. an inner shaft is easy to check, look at the boot and feel the grease. if the grease is gritty or dirty, the joint is compromised and will fail in a short time. the inners aren't as likely as the outers to fail as they aren't under the direct stresses of sharp turning angles as the outers.

If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a remanufactured axle and replace it. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.

To replace the boot and/or halfshaft axle in an 86-91 Honda: First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.

I brought my 2005 VW Passat (46,100 miles) into a VW dealer in Minnesota this morning for an oil change. They called and told me two of my CV boots were leaking and that each would cost $330 to repair for a total of $660. I'll probably find someone else to do the work -- or at least check to see if they really are leaking.

Keeps dirt out of it

Tape over the splines on the inner end of the driveshaft, then carefully slide the outer gaiter onto the shaft. pack the joints with the grease supplied in the repair kit. Ease the gaiter over the joint and ensure that the gaiter lips are correctly located in the grooves of the driveshaft and on the joint. With the coupling aligned with driveshaft, lift the lip of the gaiter to equalise air pressure. Fit the large metal retianing clip to the gaiter, remove any slack in the gaiter retaining clip by carefully compressing the raised section of the clip. check that the constant velocity joint moves freely in all directions before proceeding any further To refit the vibration damper when applicable lubricate the driveshaft with a solution of soapy water press or drive the vibration damper along the shaft using a tubular spacer which bears only on the damper inner bush until aligned with the mark made prior to removal. Refit the inner constant velocity joint then refit the driveshaft to the vehicle hope my info helps cheers Gary Australia

Because it needs grease. If it squeaks or clicks or makes noise it needs replacing. OEM ones may not have a grease fitting, replacements normally do.

Theoretically, but it's less likely than winning a major lottery jackpot. A bad brake caliper or hose is much more likely. If it _is_ the CV joint, buy me a lottery ticket, please.

i need the picture of a 1994 Toyota Camry xle cv joint diagram

I would suspect that your Constant Velocity, or "CV" joint is defective. If you see tears or breaks in the boots covering the joints, then is almost a sure thing that they are bad and need to be replaced.

wrong! these cars have bad, or should i say poorly engineered,steering intermediate shafts, you can lube them and it will go away, seack the web, you can fix this in fifteen minutes with a five dollar spray can of lithium grease

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Much better to replace the whole axle, look at www.happywrenching.com for a guide on how to replace an axle in a Honda Odyssey

Yes you have two drive axles that use 2 CV joints, both have an inner CV joint and an Outer CV joint

First signs of a bad cv is, clicking noise when making a sharp turn. Alot of times the cv boot ( rubber boot that covers the cv joint and holds the grease in ) tears and leaks the grease out, you can turn the wheel all the way and take a look at the boot where the axle attaches to the wheel if there is a rip you will see grease everywhere, if the cv isn't clicking yet it will soon.

It is the same basic procedure as thee left side with one exception. Remove the cotter pin and retainer from the stub shaft. Break the hub nut loose with a socket and large breaker bar. Loosen the lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Detach the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm. Pry the lower control arm down and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Remove the the brake caliper and suspend it on a wire. Remove the brake disc. Remove the drive axle hub nut and washer.Using a a two-jaw puller, press the stub shaft until it breaks free. To remove the right side drive axle, mark the relationship between the the axle center bearing retainer and bracket and remove the axle bearing retainer bolts. Position a large pry bar behind the flange of the inner CV joint and pry sharply to free the circlip on the inner CV joint stub shaft from the transaxle. Pull the strut away from the vehicle and separate the stub from the hub. Remove the drive axle from the vehicle. When reinstalling the drive axle. support the CV joints. NOTE: There is no circlip on the right side inner CV joint stub shaft.

yes

If it is round, it is a cv. If it is a cross shape, it is an u joint.

The easy way to fix the boots is to cut off the old ones and use a split boot. But, these don't last very long. So the other way is to dissassemble the hub and unbolt the halfshaft from the side gear shaft. You then have to unbolt the lower control arm and dop it out of the way. Then you will have enough room to drop out the halfshaft. Then the rest is obvious.

most of the times if you have a bad ball join you will hear a bang when turning corners.

No you can't. Mine just went on me and when I turn on my car and put it in gear the whole front drivers' side shakes and rumbles. When you do drive it though, it will sound like the car is dragging the engine on the pavement. It's horrific.

The average cost to replace CV joints is approximately $300. It is more inexpensive and less time consuming to replace both CV joints.

Usually at low speed you hear a grinding noise when turning the wheel (assuming its front wheel drive) coming from the lower front. Another more involved way is to jack up the front and look to see if the rubber boot that covers the CV (constant velocity) joint is intact and not split with metal/dirt inside. You did not say if if is rear wheel CV joint... usually on all wheel drive independent suspension vehicles..... they of cause dont turn put will a grinding /binding noise at low speed when going around corners, usually the inside wheel. Hope that answers your question

Lower ball joints call for 1.7 hrs per side for labor, app. $50 per hour = app. $85 per side for labor.

For my 94 Geo Prizm it's a 30mm.