CV Joints

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You need to replace your transmission. I had exactly the same problem; sounds like outer cv joints gone bad but only makes the noise in 1st and 2nd on accel. Some internal trans failure v common on 4cyl 626.

check for worn out brakes

check the wheel bearing - if it's a constant grinding noise, it is probably the bearing. New ones cost around $100 or so from an auto parts store. You can change it yourself if you have some skill, and you can actually do the change without removing the whole spindle assembly - the bearing is attached to the spindle by 3 bolts on the engine side of the spindle. Remember to take off the axle nut first, so that the bearing can just slide off of it. And also remember to disconnect the ABS sensor - and reconnect it when done.

broken motor mount(s)

Yes it can, and if it is, trust me this just happened to me, you got to fix it as fast as possible. If you just blow it off you can be looking at some dire consequences. 1) The CV joint can abruptly fail and you will lose all drive power, if one CV joint goes your differential will NOT power the other wheel. 2) if you are driving at a good click, the RPMs on the CV joint will cause it to fail and the CV joint will tear up the inside of your engine. 3) In rare occasions the failure could cause one of your wheels to lock up and you will lose most if not all control of your car. Moral of the story is do not drive any long distances from your house on a bad CV joint unless you have money to blow on a tow. You can buy a replacement CV joint at any Auto Parts store for 75-125 dollars, I advice to get one with a lifetime warranty. DO NOT DRIVE ON A BAD CV JOINT!

* Remove the wheel cover or hub cap.Remove the cotter pin * Break the hub nut loose with a socket and large breaker bar NOTE: If the socket will not fit through the opening in the center of the wheel install the spare * Loosen the lug nuts raise and support car securely on jackstands.Remove the wheel and drain the transaxle lubricant. * Detach the stabilizer bar link(s) from the control arm(s) * Separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle.Now remove the driveaxle/hub nut * Swing the knuckle/hub assembly out (away from the car) until the end of the driveaxle is free of the hub.If the driveaxle splines stick in the hub tap on the end of the driveaxle with aplastic hammer.Carefully pry the inner CV joint from the transaxle using a large screwdriver or prybar positioned between the CV joint housing and the transaxle housing.Support the outer end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire to avoid unnecessary strain on the inner CV joint * Support the CV joints and carefully remove the driveaxle from the vehicle

If it makes a clicking, grinding, rattling, or other noise when you accelerate with the steering turned it is not safe.

I would say it is the left axel shaft.

The fill plug is on the front of the transaxle case, about halfway up.

It take specific knowledge and tools. If you're thinking about doing it, buy a repair manual (Chilton manual) for your specific car. It will tell you exactly how to do it. If you're not mechanical, I'd have a mechanic do the work. It's a pretty difficult job and you really have to know what you are doing.

IN REVERSE, drive in a circle and listen for the clicking. CHECK YOUR REARVIEW FIRST. you won't mistake which side its on, the drivers side will be louder than the passenger side for obvious reasons. best practice is, if you have 1 bad CV Joint, change them both (R+L) if you have bad inner and outer joints, change the entire shafts on both sides. an inner shaft is easy to check, look at the boot and feel the grease. if the grease is gritty or dirty, the joint is compromised and will fail in a short time. the inners aren't as likely as the outers to fail as they aren't under the direct stresses of sharp turning angles as the outers.

If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a remanufactured axle and replace it. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.

To replace the boot and/or halfshaft axle in an 86-91 Honda: First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.

I brought my 2005 VW Passat (46,100 miles) into a VW dealer in Minnesota this morning for an oil change. They called and told me two of my CV boots were leaking and that each would cost $330 to repair for a total of $660. I'll probably find someone else to do the work -- or at least check to see if they really are leaking.

Keeps dirt out of it

Tape over the splines on the inner end of the driveshaft, then carefully slide the outer gaiter onto the shaft. pack the joints with the grease supplied in the repair kit. Ease the gaiter over the joint and ensure that the gaiter lips are correctly located in the grooves of the driveshaft and on the joint. With the coupling aligned with driveshaft, lift the lip of the gaiter to equalise air pressure. Fit the large metal retianing clip to the gaiter, remove any slack in the gaiter retaining clip by carefully compressing the raised section of the clip. check that the constant velocity joint moves freely in all directions before proceeding any further To refit the vibration damper when applicable lubricate the driveshaft with a solution of soapy water press or drive the vibration damper along the shaft using a tubular spacer which bears only on the damper inner bush until aligned with the mark made prior to removal. Refit the inner constant velocity joint then refit the driveshaft to the vehicle hope my info helps cheers Gary Australia

Because it needs grease. If it squeaks or clicks or makes noise it needs replacing. OEM ones may not have a grease fitting, replacements normally do.

Theoretically, but it's less likely than winning a major lottery jackpot. A bad brake caliper or hose is much more likely. If it _is_ the CV joint, buy me a lottery ticket, please.

i need the picture of a 1994 Toyota Camry xle cv joint diagram

I would suspect that your Constant Velocity, or "CV" joint is defective. If you see tears or breaks in the boots covering the joints, then is almost a sure thing that they are bad and need to be replaced.

wrong! these cars have bad, or should i say poorly engineered,steering intermediate shafts, you can lube them and it will go away, seack the web, you can fix this in fifteen minutes with a five dollar spray can of lithium grease

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Much better to replace the whole axle, look at www.happywrenching.com for a guide on how to replace an axle in a Honda Odyssey

Yes you have two drive axles that use 2 CV joints, both have an inner CV joint and an Outer CV joint

First signs of a bad cv is, clicking noise when making a sharp turn. Alot of times the cv boot ( rubber boot that covers the cv joint and holds the grease in ) tears and leaks the grease out, you can turn the wheel all the way and take a look at the boot where the axle attaches to the wheel if there is a rip you will see grease everywhere, if the cv isn't clicking yet it will soon.